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I just put a TH700-R4 in the Vette and love the overdrive, but the shifter cable has a lot of play (original TH350 cable) and won't go into 1st gear manually (where all the fun is). Can anyone link me to some installation instructions? I installed the detent plate from the conversion kit that Shiftworks provided, but am still not getting back far enough to manually access all the gears. The instructions given on the card from the parts pack is quite limited and I was looking more for the "don'ts" & the "watch out for's"... it seems hooking the cable on either end and threading through the trans tunnel seems pretty straight forward. I am hoping on guidance on what gear do I start in before dismantle, what is the adjustments needed to get the cable in correctly for all gears to function, etc. Any gear heads been through this with a Gen 3 before? Any help is a good thing...
I just put a TH700-R4 in the Vette and love the overdrive, but the shifter cable has a lot of play (original TH350 cable) and won't go into 1st gear manually (where all the fun is). Can anyone link me to some installation instructions? I installed the detent plate from the conversion kit that Shiftworks provided, but am still not getting back far enough to manually access all the gears. The instructions given on the card from the parts pack is quite limited and I was looking more for the "don'ts" & the "watch out for's"... it seems hooking the cable on either end and threading through the trans tunnel seems pretty straight forward. I am hoping on guidance on what gear do I start in before dismantle, what is the adjustments needed to get the cable in correctly for all gears to function, etc. Any gear heads been through this with a Gen 3 before? Any help is a good thing...
This link may be helpful. Also, do a search on 700R4 conversion and lots of stuff here on the 700R4 in earlier C3's:
When I installed my 700R4, I installed a new shifter selector cable, mounting bracket and selector plate for the 700R4 (all came with the trans) from Bow-Tie Overdrives. They don't appear to source that in a kit anymore. That may help with some of the play.
Did you purchase a lock-up module/wire for the lock-up converter? I ran mine up through the trans tunnel opening to the fuse block.
Also, did you get the TV cable adapter for your carb so that geometry is correct for the 700R4 TVS cable?
I can only go as low as L2 manually with my 700R4. With or without the conversion detent plate. I destroyed my shifter to install the plate and it wouldn't go into L1. I then bought one from an '82 and it also would not go down to L1 even though the selector plate shows it. But, with L1 so LOW, I figure there are few instances where I would want to start and STAY in that gear for long.
When I installed my 700R4, I installed a new shifter selector cable, mounting bracket and selector plate for the 700R4 (all came with the trans) from Bow-Tie Overdrives. They don't appear to source that in a kit anymore. That may help with some of the play.
Did you purchase a lock-up module/wire for the lock-up converter? I ran mine up through the trans tunnel opening to the fuse block.
Also, did you get the TV cable adapter for your carb so that geometry is correct for the 700R4 TVS cable?
I can only go as low as L2 manually with my 700R4. With or without the conversion detent plate. I destroyed my shifter to install the plate and it wouldn't go into L1. I then bought one from an '82 and it also would not go down to L1 even though the selector plate shows it. But, with L1 so LOW, I figure there are few instances where I would want to start and STAY in that gear for long.
When I drag race I hold L1 to 6800+/- RPM... and I have 3.90:1 ring and pinion gears; with the 3.06:1 L1 ratio, that gives 11.93:1 overall ratio from the start... it doesn't take long to tach out or top the cam power band! I worked this morning again to try and adjust after the detent/shifter cable install, but still not there. I would love any help in getting this adjusted to reach manual L1... anybody?
When I drag race I hold L1 to 6800+/- RPM... and I have 3.90:1 ring and pinion gears; with the 3.06:1 L1 ratio, that gives 11.93:1 overall ratio from the start... it doesn't take long to tach out or top the cam power band! I worked this morning again to try and adjust after the detent/shifter cable install, but still not there. I would love any help in getting this adjusted to reach manual L1... anybody?
To you and the op, shift works has both the interchangeable detent and the best shifter cable made, they even have a video on the cable.
The 350 shift detent will not allow for manual 1 . You need to file in a detent or get the shift detent kit from shift works
Modify the original plate , or Get the kit . I recommend the kit. It comes with the new selector indicator P R N D 3 2 1 to make your conversion look factory .. I got Shiftworks Kit 9 years ago for mine.. looks and works great.. I can manually shift up or down at any rpm or hold to any rpm with my trans
To you and the op, shift works has both the interchangeable detent and the best shifter cable made, they even have a video on the cable.
and the people who work there are a great help... BTW, I hope everyone realizes that I have already installed the Shiftworks conversion kit with detent and their shifter cable... Where do I find this video? YT?
been 9 years but ...I think you need to put trans in 4th at the trans , and measure distance from pin on trans shift arm to face of cable bracket .. should be 5 1/2 inches if I remember correctly. if it isn t close, you may need to move bracket ...then put selector in 4th and connect cable or adjust til it will connect.. I hope this makes sense to you and helps
Last edited by fishslayer143; Jul 18, 2016 at 09:30 AM.
been 9 years but ...I think you need to put trans in 4th at the trans , and measure distance from pin on trans shift arm to face of cable bracket .. should be 5 1/2 inches if I remember correctly. if it isn t close, you may need to move bracket ...then put selector in 4th and connect cable or adjust til it will connect.. I hope this makes sense to you and helps
my trans installer/mechanic said the same thing... make the cable connection with the shifter and the trans bracket back in the L1 position; but not too tight, so you don't lose park...
If you aren't sure how to ajust the linkage get help from someone that knows the ins and outs of the adjusting. If not you may be looking at rebuilding the trans. - I know how that goes.
and the people who work there are a great help... BTW, I hope everyone realizes that I have already installed the Shiftworks conversion kit with detent and their shifter cable... Where do I find this video? YT?
They are good dudes and the video is on their website, it's just a short video about the quality of their cable.
Originally Posted by fishslayer143
been 9 years but ...I think you need to put trans in 4th at the trans , and measure distance from pin on trans shift arm to face of cable bracket .. should be 5 1/2 inches if I remember correctly. if it isn t close, you may need to move bracket ...then put selector in 4th and connect cable or adjust til it will connect.. I hope this makes sense to you and helps
Originally Posted by diehrd
Cable adjustment is done with the car in N .. You then move and tweak if need be.
I think Tony is right, Bremen a few years for me as well, but the measurement was 5.375" in nuetral and Yelp if it don't go into first all the way, you move a hair more, the 5.375" is a guide line or starting point, if you go to far, the car don't want to go into park. I broke 3 cables, the original, one from corvette central and one from a local guy around here, Google it and found out that the original isn't made anymore and that most replacements are garbage, further research and shift works were I bout the linkage and detent from had there own manufactured and for most makes and models, the video on his Web site shows the owner putting the cable in some extreme bends and the cable moves as if it were silk on silk. And as was mentioned really good dudes, super helpfull, i had to call them a half year after I bought the detent and linkage, the transmission shop that destroyed all they touched , was warranting the tranny for the 3rd time and putt it back together with out measuring before the took it apart.
Last edited by bluedawg; Jul 19, 2016 at 11:16 PM.
Reason: Dees nuts matter.
Trust me, if you have changed the detent plate in the shifter, you are going to want to get under the car, remove the cotter pin, remove the cable end, put on the parking brake, move the trans shifter to L1 (1st gear), then use a rubber hammer or screwdriver (whatever) put the trans bracket for the shifter cable all the way back as far as it goes (this is 1st gear) then loosen the adjustment nut on this bracket and reattach the cable end; reinsert the cotter pin. The fun starts when 1st gear is held down for a good high RPM; what ever works for the engine you have built... STOCK: 5500+RPM; HI-PERF: 6500+RPM. What a jolt of torque! What an incredible acceleration! DO IT!!!!