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Hi all,
I have read many many threads about the famous "steering column collapse". I have the same issue, my lower shaft is at about 4". I removed the column and now when I am pulling the shaft back out it feels like it is pulling something from the wheel. Does the steering wheel need to be removed for this?
I'm a bit confused... the steering columns have a shear pin in the lower shaft (on tilt) so that if a front end collision were to happen it would shear the pin and possibly keep the steering wheel from crushing your chest. If this pin is sheared the column you'll need to pull the lower shaft back to where the two holes meat up and then insert a plastic bushing or pin of some sort so that it will remain.
To do this replacement correctly, you'd need to remove the lower shaft from the column which would involve way more than just taking the steering wheel off.
The general consensus is that the shaft can just be pulled back out, no harm done. Can anyone chime in on this? Can the steering wheel still be attached and pull the lower shaft out?
I should add that this is a 1970 T&T column. I read Jim's papers and it seems that my shaft needs to be pulled out another 0.70". As I am pulling , the shaft moves about an 1/8" but then wants to get sucked back into its original position. I can also hear something moving near the steering wheel. Am I missing something....
Last edited by ace_cobra; Jul 29, 2016 at 05:57 AM.
When the two piece steering shaft was manufactured at Saginaw, the solid upper shaft was inserted into the tubular lower shaft and molten plastic was injected into the shaft assembly to keep it at the correct overall length. That correct length translated to roughly 4.7 inches of lower shaft sticking out from the lower bearing.
It does seem that the amount of force to shear the small plastic pin and move the lower shaft back into the steering column is always a lot less that the amount of force to move the shaft back out to its original length.
Install the steering column flange on the steering shaft and try to pry the shaft back out to that 4.7 inch dimension. You really don't want to hammer on the lower shaft since it could damage the bearings holding the steering shaft.
A lot of people do not even recognize that the lower shaft has telescoped back into the steering column. Then they don't understand why the flexible coupling assembly is "pulled apart" when the steering column is installed in the car and they try to attach it to the flexible coupling on the steering gear.
Just as a point of information: Disregarding the flexible coupling. There should be a 1.00 to 1.3 inch gap between the very tip of the lower steering column shaft to the tip of the steering gear input shaft.
Jim,
Thanks for the reply. I understand that the shaft is pushed in, and I have been using a winch to try and pull it out. My concern is that it seems to be coming out about 1/8" freely and getting sucked back in the same amount. It seems after 1/8" it is hitting something inside near the steering wheel, I can hear something clunking. Does the wheel and t&t spring need to be disconnected to extend the lower shaft?
Jim,
Thanks for the reply. I understand that the shaft is pushed in, and I have been using a winch to try and pull it out. My concern is that it seems to be coming out about 1/8" freely and getting sucked back in the same amount. It seems after 1/8" it is hitting something inside near the steering wheel, I can hear something clunking. Does the wheel and t&t spring need to be disconnected to extend the lower shaft?
You have me stumped. The steering wheel and the tilt and telescoping mechanism does not have to be removed or disconnected in order to pull the lower tubular shaft back out. I do not know what the clunking could be.
Jim
I just went and tried to tap it in a little, to see if it moves at all. It certainly went in about 1/4", so the shaft is not stuck. It still has about a 1/8" springy play though.