355 build?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 246
Likes: 2
From: colonia New jeresy
355 build?
i have a short block with a gm steel crank pink rods trw forged pistons . need rings and bearings. the block is 010 4 bolt main .i have a gm duel plane manifold lt1. not sure on using headers. exhaust is 2.5 with x pipe. trans is 400 26 to2800 11" convert. rear is 355 ratio. need help with what type of rings/bearings? cam roller or flat tappet lift? heads looking at iron heads what size intake/ex want to make 350/ 400 hp and all the tq i can make red line 5500/6000 rpm. not building a race car want to keep up with whats on the street thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,993
Likes: 1,136
From: League City Tx
i have a short block with a gm steel crank pink rods trw forged pistons . need rings and bearings. the block is 010 4 bolt main .i have a gm duel plane manifold lt1. not sure on using headers. exhaust is 2.5 with x pipe. trans is 400 26 to2800 11" convert. rear is 355 ratio. need help with what type of rings/bearings? cam roller or flat tappet lift? heads looking at iron heads what size intake/ex want to make 350/ 400 hp and all the tq i can make red line 5500/6000 rpm. not building a race car want to keep up with whats on the street thanks
#s matching 350 block bored .040 (357")
Stock crank turned .020/.020"
Sealed Power forged flat top pistons, 4 reliefs
Stock rods w/ ARP bolts, resized.
Should be around 9.7-1 compression assuming the pistons arent buried at TDC...(we didnt square deck the block so we wouldnt lose the stamps)
Original/#s matching 1.94" double hump heads, 3 angle valve job/surfaced, no porting. Screw in studs/guide plates. 64 cc
XE268 Comp HYD flat tappet. 224/230*
Performer RPM intake
Holley 3310 vac secondary (750 cfm)
Hooker 1 5/8" x 3" headers.
I'm hoping this combo will make an honest 350hp...No doubt, the heads are holding it back a good bit but....
T350 trans, Hughes 2500 converter, 3.55 gears. 2.5" exhaust w/2 chamber Choke/Flowmasters
I figure it should dip into the 13s pretty easy....Should be enough for a 65 year old fart.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 11,095
Likes: 990
From: Sierra Foothills CA
I just built basically the same combo you are building. I did not dyno it and the car is not driving yet, but here is what we did for my dad's 70' SS 350 Nova.
#s matching 350 block bored .040 (357")
Stock crank turned .020/.020"
Sealed Power forged flat top pistons, 4 reliefs
Stock rods w/ ARP bolts, resized.
Should be around 9.7-1 compression assuming the pistons arent buried at TDC...(we didnt square deck the block so we wouldnt lose the stamps)
Original/#s matching 1.94" double hump heads, 3 angle valve job/surfaced, no porting. Screw in studs/guide plates. 64 cc
XE268 Comp HYD flat tappet. 224/230*
Performer RPM intake
Holley 3310 vac secondary (750 cfm)
Hooker 1 5/8" x 3" headers.
I'm hoping this combo will make an honest 350hp...No doubt, the heads are holding it back a good bit but....
T350 trans, Hughes 2500 converter, 3.55 gears. 2.5" exhaust w/2 chamber Choke/Flowmasters
I figure it should dip into the 13s pretty easy....Should be enough for a 65 year old fart.
#s matching 350 block bored .040 (357")
Stock crank turned .020/.020"
Sealed Power forged flat top pistons, 4 reliefs
Stock rods w/ ARP bolts, resized.
Should be around 9.7-1 compression assuming the pistons arent buried at TDC...(we didnt square deck the block so we wouldnt lose the stamps)
Original/#s matching 1.94" double hump heads, 3 angle valve job/surfaced, no porting. Screw in studs/guide plates. 64 cc
XE268 Comp HYD flat tappet. 224/230*
Performer RPM intake
Holley 3310 vac secondary (750 cfm)
Hooker 1 5/8" x 3" headers.
I'm hoping this combo will make an honest 350hp...No doubt, the heads are holding it back a good bit but....
T350 trans, Hughes 2500 converter, 3.55 gears. 2.5" exhaust w/2 chamber Choke/Flowmasters
I figure it should dip into the 13s pretty easy....Should be enough for a 65 year old fart.
If/when your Dad's Nova is finished, would you mind posting some photos of it? My brother had a '69 Nova SS that I loved and still miss. It would be a treat to see another one so I could take a little trip down memory lane.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 894
Likes: 91
i have a short block with a gm steel crank pink rods trw forged pistons . need rings and bearings. the block is 010 4 bolt main .i have a gm duel plane manifold lt1. not sure on using headers. exhaust is 2.5 with x pipe. trans is 400 26 to2800 11" convert. rear is 355 ratio. need help with what type of rings/bearings? cam roller or flat tappet lift? heads looking at iron heads what size intake/ex want to make 350/ 400 hp and all the tq i can make red line 5500/6000 rpm. not building a race car want to keep up with whats on the street thanks
If you do a piston change I would take advantage of the "floating" wrist pins for sure, maybe with a budget aftermarket conn rod!
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. From past testing we've seen 355+HP (close to 400# Torque) on the flat-tappet platform with the factory OEM L-82 cam, Ross pistons (1/16" ring pack), and 9.8:1 C.R. The hyd-roller would add another 30 HP easily. We do this setup on most 100% stock-appearing units. Full roller, lifters and rockers. All the power in by 5800.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 48
From: Angier nc
Hyd roller cam is money well spent.Better heads = actually achieving your goals.Headers a must with oem heads and will certainly help aftermarket heads.
Keeping up with newer cars is a tall order these days.
Keeping up with newer cars is a tall order these days.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,445
Likes: 971
From: Tennessee/Rhode Island
I used AFR 180's on my 78 L-82 with retro-Roller cam and 10.2:1 compression and the motor makes great power. Howards roller cam (lift .525/.525, duration 219/225, LSA 110 Operating range of cam 1,500-5,600 RPM....good bottom end, great mid range torque, pulls hard to 5,800 RPM...No comparison of the 882 L-82 cast iron heads and the AFR's but they are pricey...speed costs money though...
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Drifting
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,415
Likes: 126
From: Mequon WI
FWIW im looking into vortec or afr heads.
Good luck and have fun with it.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
x3 on good heads and a roller cam no way youre going to make 400 hp esp by 6000 with what you have. You may still need to spin it a little higher to get there. Wouldnt worry about your power # get the best head you can afford your goal will come easier, cam it with your rear gear oughta run pretty good.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 109
From: Las Vegas NV
FWIW, and to expand on what I mentioned earlier, I went with Blue Print's H8002K heads and when I contacted them about achieving 400hp, they recommended the XR282HR roller cam from comp. I ended up choosing the XR276HR cam for more torque and have not regretted that decision at all yet, my 355 has plenty of torque. In 5th gear at 65 I'm just under 2,000rpm and can part throttle bring the car easily up to 80mph for passing cars without downshifting. My cam is pretty much done by 6,000rpm which I feel is a nice safe number, although I've had my balanced and forged bottom end up past 7,000rpm without it exploding.
Heads:
http://www.blueprintengines.com/inde...cylinder-heads
Cam that BP recommended:
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Dy...2HR-10_001.asp
Cam I went with:
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Dy...6HR-10_001.asp
More specs in my sig below.
Heads:
http://www.blueprintengines.com/inde...cylinder-heads
Cam that BP recommended:
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Dy...2HR-10_001.asp
Cam I went with:
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Dy...6HR-10_001.asp
More specs in my sig below.
Last edited by AboveTheLogic; Aug 17, 2016 at 12:04 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,445
Likes: 971
From: Tennessee/Rhode Island
FWIW, and to expand on what I mentioned earlier, I went with Blue Print's H8002K heads and when I contacted them about achieving 400hp, they recommended the XR282HR roller cam from comp. I ended up choosing the XR276HR cam for more torque and have not regretted that decision at all yet, my 355 has plenty of torque. In 5th gear at 65 I'm just under 2,000rpm and can part throttle bring the car easily up to 80mph for passing cars without downshifting. My cam is pretty much done by 6,000rpm which I feel is a nice safe number, although I've had my balanced and forged bottom end up past 7,000rpm without it exploding.
Heads:
http://www.blueprintengines.com/inde...cylinder-heads
Cam that BP recommended:
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Dy...2HR-10_001.asp
Cam I went with:
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Dy...6HR-10_001.asp
More specs in my sig below.
Heads:
http://www.blueprintengines.com/inde...cylinder-heads
Cam that BP recommended:
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Dy...2HR-10_001.asp
Cam I went with:
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Dy...6HR-10_001.asp
More specs in my sig below.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,412
Likes: 50
From: Laguna Niguel California
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 109
From: Las Vegas NV
If you're doing a roller cam conversion on a flat tappet block, there are a few extras to consider. If you're going to go that route, you have some reading to do and a decision to make about whether or not it is worth it:
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/148...ic-roller-cam/
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/148...ic-roller-cam/
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 894
Likes: 91
Just recently on the early SB platform we devised a method to eliminate the need for cam buttons and chasing any cam end play on the roller platforms.
Simple machining on the cam thrust surface, done during all the other machining, pick a stepped-nose cam (later SB's) and bolt it together. The thrust plate dictates the clearance. We now do this on all the 100% stock-appearing/full-roller SB's built. We also do the MkIV BB's the same way, set them up for the MkVI cams. No more cam-buttons here for the most part!
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. This add'l machining will only work on an empty block while it's being built for now, but we may be able to change this method later and do it on assemblies where the t/cover is off and having a cam change. It is what it is for now!
Simple machining on the cam thrust surface, done during all the other machining, pick a stepped-nose cam (later SB's) and bolt it together. The thrust plate dictates the clearance. We now do this on all the 100% stock-appearing/full-roller SB's built. We also do the MkIV BB's the same way, set them up for the MkVI cams. No more cam-buttons here for the most part!
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. This add'l machining will only work on an empty block while it's being built for now, but we may be able to change this method later and do it on assemblies where the t/cover is off and having a cam change. It is what it is for now!
