Starting issues with my '79
I finally got it idling without puttering out and dying, and was able to take it around the block.
None of my gauges seem to work, so I picked up some from my local auto shop, just to see if I could get it going and figure out how it was running. I hooked everything up, and she started up and eventually puttered out. Now it sounds like the starter is just clicking away and nothings happening. I thought maybe it was something stupid like no fuel, filled it up and still nothing. Thought maybe there was something I may have done wrong with the aftermarket gauges so I hooked it back up the way it was originally just to see what'd happen, and still just clicks.
The issue I had for the longest time was I'd have to hold down the clutch and give it a little gas to fire it up, and solved that issue by replacing the spark plugs (dumbest smallest thing). Since then it would start up and stay running with no problem. Now I'm running into this snag. Hooked everything back up exactly the way it was and still won't start.. it's driving me nuts.
Any ideas?
Last edited by Zapawaf; Aug 9, 2016 at 04:30 PM.
Not sure what's draining the battery. It's brand new, and I have nothing aftermarket plugged in. Something else to figure out I guess.
Replaced all the printed circuits for the guages and apparently those still don't work.
Even if the alarm horn is broken or disconnected the system can still be in an alarm state with a relay coil energized thus draining the battery over a week or so. Use the key to unlock the driver door as that is the only way to turn off the alarm. If you hear a relay click in the center console when you do so you know that you've found a problem.
If you have a power antenna and it is not functioning such is often due to a broken nylon cable inside the antenna mast. When this happens the motor will continue to run (going on and off via thermal reset) because the down limit switch is not tripped. This will drain the battery quite rapidly. If you hear a clicking and/or other strange noise from the left rear fender the antenna is the problem.
Do your interior lights operate correctly? They should stay on about 30 seconds after the last door closes. Starting the engine will immediately turn the lights off. Stopping the engine will immediately turn the lights on for about 30 seconds. If they don't operate in this way there is a fair chance that the courtesy light timer is causing a slow power drain.
As far as I know this car does not have an alarm.
It does have a powered antenna which has been broken off since I bought the car. I have no intentions of fixing it any time soon (if at all), how can I remove this as a possibility? Is there a fuse I can pull?
I've honestly never paid any attention to the light, I'm not even sure if there's a bulb in there. I'll have to check it out.
I have the battery being charged, so I'll mess with it once it's done and I guess we'll see what happens when I go to start it tomorrow.
Even if the alarm horn is broken or disconnected the system can still be in an alarm state with a relay coil energized thus draining the battery over a week or so. Use the key to unlock the driver door as that is the only way to turn off the alarm. If you hear a relay click in the center console when you do so you know that you've found a problem. Since I have no intention on replacing it any time soon, how can I eliminate it all together?
And I'll have to check the light thing. Never paid any attention to it honestly. Pretty sure there isn't even a bulb in the fixture. All good tips, I greatly appreciate it. Will follow up in a bit. Have the battery on a charger. I'll mess with it, and see what happens when I try starting it again tomorrow.
If you have a power antenna and it is not functioning such is often due to a broken nylon cable inside the antenna mast. When this happens the motor will continue to run (going on and off via thermal reset) because the down limit switch is not tripped. This will drain the battery quite rapidly. If you hear a clicking and/or other strange noise from the left rear fender the antenna is the problem.
Do your interior lights operate correctly? They should stay on about 30 seconds after the last door closes. Starting the engine will immediately turn the lights off. Stopping the engine will immediately turn the lights on for about 30 seconds. If they don't operate in this way there is a fair chance that the courtesy light timer is causing a slow power drain.
Last edited by Zapawaf; Aug 11, 2016 at 04:13 PM.
The most certain way to completely eliminate the power antenna as the source of a power draw is to remove the connectors from the power antenna relay. In a '79 the relay is in the center armrest behind the parking brake lever.
Bulbs removed from the courtesy light circuit could mean that the timer had a problem. Again just removing the bulbs won't stop all of the current draw if the timer module is defective. The courtesy lamp timer module is accessed by removing the glove box liner. It is to the right and should be taped to the wiring harness there. It's a fairly large orange box.
In '79 all three things I mentioned get their power from the 20A fuse labeled "CTSY" for "courtesy". That's why I said that the CTSY circuit is a common location for problems that drain the battery.
The most certain way to completely eliminate the power antenna as the source of a power draw is to remove the connectors from the power antenna relay. In a '79 the relay is in the center armrest behind the parking brake lever.
Bulbs removed from the courtesy light circuit could mean that the timer had a problem. Again just removing the bulbs won't stop all of the current draw if the timer module is defective. The courtesy lamp timer module is accessed by removing the glove box liner. It is to the right and should be taped to the wiring harness there. It's a fairly large orange box.
In '79 all three things I mentioned get their power from the 20A fuse labeled "CTSY" for "courtesy". That's why I said that the CTSY circuit is a common location for problems that drain the battery.
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