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The radiator was sitting a little lower that I liked. Once I put the hood on, I noticed that I could raise it up about two inches,
So I raised it and angled it a little less. This also gave me an extra inch between the fan and the turbocharger. I also found that I could stand the Intercooler straight up now.
If you can get away with QQ plates, no front plate is required - even though they give you 2 plates. Doesn't make sense but its true.
Thanks, I didn't know about singe plate with QQ.
I was thinking about which way to go but now with no inspections required for regular plates on cars of this age, I went with regular plates. Less restrictions.
I could have waited a bit on the plates, but me and another buddy with a Vette project both committed to getting our respective car on the road by New Years day. Not done, but on the road..
So I made a heat shield between them out of scrap aluminum. It mounts on the alternator screws. If it vibrates too much, I'll add two more mount tabs towards the front of the alternator.
I'd like to add vents to the hood to get rid of some of the heat the turbo is going to make. It's going to have to be near the front of the hood. I've been looking around and havn't pulled the trigger on any yet. I even have one from a Shelby Charger, but it's kinda rectangular.
I'd like to add vents to the hood to get rid of some of the heat the turbo is going to make. It's going to have to be near the front of the hood. I've been looking around and havn't pulled the trigger on any yet. I even have one from a Shelby Charger, but it's kinda rectangular.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
OK- don't laugh- but I really like the look of the Kia Stinger vents- got a set last time I was at the junkyard. They have the angled look of the LT-1/BB hood. FLip them around- left to right- and I think they'd look good and pull heat out.
OK- don't laugh- but I really like the look of the Kia Stinger vents
I'd be the last person in the world to laugh. One day I'll have to make a list of all the non GM or corvette parts in this project. It will be a mile long starting with parts from a old recliner I threw out. I'm a fan of re-purposing.
Yeah, i could see setting something like that oriented to look like Vette badges:
I'd be the last person in the world to laugh. One day I'll have to make a list of all the non GM or corvette parts in this project. It will be a mile long starting with parts from a old recliner I threw out. I'm a fan of re-purposing.
Slight change of plans for the power steering. Instead of using the stock steering box with a electronic motor assist, I'm going with the Borgeson and an electric power steering pump. Four reasons...
(1) I ordered a replacement refurbished stock steering box and I had a huge amount of slop. Hello returns department.
(2) I like tighter lock to lock ratio on the Borgeson versus the stock replacement.
(3) the Electronic assist (Hyundai) is going to be a pain to fit and find fittings for.
(3) I heard some of the electronic assist motors don't have good return to zero characteristics unless they are ties to a steering wheel angle sensor.
The pump I'm going with is from a Volvo. They are used on fairly heavy cars (C70 is 3800 lbs), so I like that better. They have a default mode, so if there is no canbus, they turn on and run anyway after about 2 seconds. Even is default mode, I believe the pump adjusts it's performance based on fluid demand, so it should draw less power when not steering hard.
At some later time, I'm going to try and figure out the canbus messages the pump is looking for and make it a speed sensitive power steering. My friend has access to a volvo scan tool that can exercise the power steering pump and I hope to eavesdrop on the messages in my daughters C70. I'm still amazed no one else has come up with the messages for any of the various canbus driven pumps and EPS units. Maybe they have and aren't sharing. Once I know the messages, it's cake to duplicate them based on my MPH.
This pump only needs 12v power/ground and a 12v signal to run in default mode The 12 volt power can go to a fuse and then directly to the battery. The 12 volt signal will be turned on only after the engine is running. I don't want an 80 amp load on the battery when the car isn't running yet or trying to start.
The Volvo pump output is a 16mm x 1.5 with O-ring fitting. Same as the return of the Borgeson.
Bench test.
I was thinking about installing this in the back, but it would be a pain to check and fill the level. So instead, it's going under the master cylinder. The filler will be close to the washer fluid filler.
I'm going with a steel supply line since both the pump and Borgeson are mounted tot he frame. Once I install the lines, I'll let you know if this pumps works ok.
A while back I had looked at the Mercedes Benz 'A' Class pump (euro only model) before going with a manual Flaming River R&P with a Nissan Cube electric assist
The A class M-B weighs in around 3000lbs.
IIRC - Chris who is building his 69 is going to run this pump- and siad you would help him out with the electronics...
The pump (part# A1684660401} operates at 73 bar, or about 1050 psi I don't know the GPM of the M-B pump.
Stock GM pumps ( C3 Corvettes for example) are Corvette pump was designed to limit pump pressure to around 1000 psi and have 2.9 GPM- where the upgraded pumps are around 3.3GPM (Chevy Astro Van pump)
Do you know what the Volvo's specs are? Looks pretty stout, Inquiring minds what to know...
IIRC - Chris who is building his 69 is going to run this pump- and siad you would help him out with the electronics...
Yes, the car Chris is building is going to have serious demands on the steering. If his Mercedes pump works as hoped, it's going to break the myths about electric power steering not being adequate.
Originally Posted by Richard454
Do you know what the Volvo's specs are? Looks pretty stout, Inquiring minds what to know...
Not yet. Might be interesting to put a pressure gauge on the feed line and see what the lock to lock pressure is. Even if I measure the pressure, we won't know the full potential of the pump till I get the canbus working.
BTW, the Mercedes pump is DC brushed motor. The Volvo appears to be 3 phase brushless.
Yes, the car Chris is building is going to have serious demands on the steering. If his Mercedes pump works as hoped, it's going to break the myths about electric power steering not being adequate.
Not yet. Might be interesting to put a pressure gauge on the feed line and see what the lock to lock pressure is. Even if I measure the pressure, we won't know the full potential of the pump till I get the canbus working.
BTW, the Mercedes pump is DC brushed motor. The Volvo appears to be 3 phase brushless.
Ahhh- the Volvo one sounds even better...do let us know what you find.
Chris is doing some serious work on his 69....well thought out stuff too.
Oh- BTW - I added a delay circuit on my ignition- so the big stuff- electric steering- electric AC compressor- Fans- won't start up till about 6-7 seconds ( adjustable from 1 second to a couple minutes) after the cars running.
Ahhh- the Volvo one sounds even better...do let us know what you find.
I'm eagerly awaiting the delivery of my Borgeson 18 and 16mm fittings so I can fire this puppy up with fluid.
Originally Posted by Richard454
Oh- BTW - I added a delay circuit on my ignition- so the big stuff- electric steering- electric AC compressor- Fans- won't start up till about 6-7 seconds ( adjustable from 1 second to a couple minutes) after the cars running.
Richard
That will pay dividends. My transmission/car controller handles all of that......
Fuel pumps come on full power for 2 seconds after ignition is turned on. Then turn off if engine isn't turning. Back on full while cranking and then PWMed based a combo of boost and RPM when the engine is running.
Fans (coolant, oil, transmission and intercooler) never (except during override) come on until engine is running (programmable, currently set to 400 RPM).
Wideband heater only comes on after engine is cranking or running.
Electric power steering pump only after engine is running. In progress.
Alternator will generate minimum volts while cranking, then adjustable by PWM through the controller. I'm going to convert the regulator from the 4 wire to the 2 wire.
Headlights will go out during cranking.
A/C clutch won't come on till engine is running.
Haven't decided about the blower motor.
I expect to be able to keep the ignition on and not kill the battery.
Got the fittings today. Bent up the tubing. Filled the Volvo PS pump with about 2 quarts of fluid. I now have power steering.
I can steer the front wheels by just twisting the rag joint, although the wheels are still on a dolly. I can't budge it unless the pump is on.
I'll drop the front wheels onto the ground a little later and try it again.
The high pressure outlet is 16mm x 1.5, but its deep. The 16mm x 1.5 fitting that went to the Borgeson return was just a tad too short.
The return line is plastic barb that fit a 3/8" hose.
The ignition signal wire that turns the unit on only draws 2.2 milliamps, so almost any 12V signal can drive it. I tried it with 5V and that didn't work.
I tested the pump with a power supply instead of the battery and it only drew about 20 amps while turning the wheel in default mode. Just under 10 amps when not turning.
11-11-2018, 11:02 AM
