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Old Sep 4, 2016 | 11:56 AM
  #21  
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[QUOTE=SwampeastMike;1592860678][QUOTE=xkeots;1592859960]
Originally Posted by SwampeastMike

Yes, it is only for the dash lights. Again, I would be certain to include an in-line fuse of the original rating of your IP fuse (probably 5-6A). If you don't a problem in the instrument wiring (common in these old cars) will take out your tail lights and potentially set something on fire behind the dash
ok, I was in Florida for 2 weeks and left early to beat the storm.
After thinking, that grey wire power comes out of the fuse box not in so a good thought but a bad move. I have power from switch to green wire. Does anyone know the path of the green wire from light switch to fuse box and where on fuse box does it attach or where to check for continuity from switch to box?
thanks
jax
77 L-82

Last edited by xkeots; Sep 4, 2016 at 11:57 AM.
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Old Sep 4, 2016 | 11:57 AM
  #22  
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[QUOTE=xkeots;1592988388][QUOTE=SwampeastMike;1592860678]
Originally Posted by xkeots

ok, I was in Florida for 2 weeks and left early to beat the storm.
After thinking, that grey wire power comes out of the fuse box not in so a good thought but a bad move. I have power from switch to green wire. Does anyone know the path of the green wire from light switch to fuse box and where on fuse box does it attach or where to check for continuity from switch to box?
thanks
jax
77 L-82

Last edited by xkeots; Sep 4, 2016 at 11:59 AM.
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Old Sep 4, 2016 | 07:09 PM
  #23  
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From the light switch, the power (green wire) goes into the bottom center fuse (inst lps)
The wire comes out GRAY and goes to the lights.

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...TUxMDNiMTY3Nzk
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 06:03 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Peterbuilt
From the light switch, the power (green wire) goes into the bottom center fuse (inst lps)
The wire comes out GRAY and goes to the lights.

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...TUxMDNiMTY3Nzk
Thanks all,
was on phone with Dub today and got power to green wire to fuse. Fuse kept popping, not sure why but I am running a 7.5 instead of a 6 amp and all is good now to dash lights.
thanks
Jax
77 L-82
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 07:37 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by xkeots
Thanks all,
was on phone with Dub today and got power to green wire to fuse. Fuse kept popping, not sure why but I am running a 7.5 instead of a 6 amp and all is good now to dash lights.
thanks
Jax
77 L-82
Sure sounds like you have leakage (i.e. a "little" short) to ground somewhere in the IP lighting circuit. Sorry to say but that is the sort of problem that makes grown men cry and Bubba take ridiculous measures that either destroy function or result in a fire.
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 09:54 PM
  #26  
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Default a bit off topic but looking for input

sorry to get off topic here, but I had a direct short in my 1972 roadster headlight wiring. I have replaced the forward lighting harness and engine harness (thanks Dub & others). The car starts and all the gauges work including the clock & radio. I have NOT yet had the guts to pull the light switch. I believe what happened was a direct wire to wire short in headlight wires just after rebuilding / installing a new steering box (paid a corvette shop to do it). I questioned the shop on it and the boss agreed it was certainly possible they bashed the wires accidentally. He agreed to trailer my car and make repairs at no cost to me. He said he'd need 4-5 weeks to catch up on other work. He hasn't called me back yet and doesn't know I've replaced the 2 harnesses and got the car essentially 'fixed'.

I just got the forward turn signal / parking light pig tails in the mail and put those on with 2 new bulbs this evening (thanks Ecklers for not making it clear those aren't included with the $250 forward lighting harness). So I'm driving out there tomorrow (9/13) and planned to turn on the headlights there. If it 'dies' again at least it's on site and I can attempt to solicit free or heavily discounted repair.

Sorry for the long message but what do you all think the odds are of the short being in the light switch itself ?? And take note this failure happened the VERY FIRST time the headlights were turned on after the steering box install with never a previous electrical problem of any kind. I noticed the thread owner stated, "I pulled open the dash and checked the light switch". Was that difficult to do ? I'm thinking not but wanted to ask. A new switch is $30. If I can swap in a new one easily I will. I would almost cry to lose 16+ hours of work and screw up brand new harnesses for no good reason. Thoughts ??

Last edited by saunderscx; Sep 12, 2016 at 10:02 PM.
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 10:57 AM
  #27  
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Personally I don't think so.!been doing this a long time. It's not like putting a penny in a fuse box, it's putting a 7.5 fuse where a 6 should be. If I had a 7 that would be fine, it is drawing .04 less than 12v. It is pulling connected 11.6 and no fuse 12v. That usially is something like too strong of a dash bulb to a lighter contact on the screw in bulb holders or a bit of corrosion somewhere, no Bubba there. It's not a 20 amp fuse, it is a 7, a 14 or higher or aluminum foil is a bubba!
After dash lights were on an hour driving, 7.5 held fine and putting my finger on fuse after was cool, no heat at all that would cause concern.no need to pull the whole dash out and check every bulb connection. It is very safe.checkman auto electric manual about % of used power, wire size, amperage, voltage pull and fuse sizing.7 instead of 6 is safe.
Jax
Originally Posted by SwampeastMike
Sure sounds like you have leakage (i.e. a "little" short) to ground somewhere in the IP lighting circuit. Sorry to say but that is the sort of problem that makes grown men cry and Bubba take ridiculous measures that either destroy function or result in a fire.
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