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Clutch Ball Stud

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Old Aug 18, 2016 | 05:31 PM
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Default Clutch Ball Stud

When I put a straight edge across the flange of the bellhousing measuring from the straight edge to top of the ball stud; I get 5 inches.

I believe it should be 4.75 inches from the straight edge to top of of the ball stud.

Should I worry about this 1/4 inch difference?

Thanks
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Old Aug 18, 2016 | 08:49 PM
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Depends on what pressure plate you're using.

JIM
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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
Depends on what pressure plate you're using.

JIM
I am using a standard OE type LUK 04-049 clutch and pressure plate.
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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 02:02 PM
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Is it the same height as what you pulled out? There's two versions of diaphragm pressure plates...tall and short. The "raised" ones are the higher performance ones and require a combination of a shorter stud/throwout bearing to make geometry work right. The shorter/flat pressure plate needs to move throwout bearing forward.

There's a few odd ones out there...the Centerforce DF for example that can take a little work to get enough clearance also.

I default to watching the throwout arm to see how it is positioned exiting the bellhousing. When at rest...you want it past center toward the front of the car. I try to get it where it is almost touching the front of the bellhousing hole when at rest. That gives the most range of travel/adjustment. You have to make sure it doesn't rub the pressure plate when it's all the way forward.

I like to race/powershift...so I like the clutch to release quick with little pedal movement/freeplay..hence my setup. A nice working stock one has it where you can feel it go "overcenter" and then get a little easier at full travel. My setup will not get as much "overcenter" feel.

There's two stud lengths and two throwout bearing lengths to make it all work with either clutch. Years ago there were 3 of each. You can get adjustable studs and McLeod sells a nifty throwout bearing that I like to use. It has slip rings to allow you to make it one of three different lengths. Slick deal when you want it perfect.

Was it working OK with old clutch?

JIM
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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
Is it the same height as what you pulled out? There's two versions of diaphragm pressure plates...tall and short. The "raised" ones are the higher performance ones and require a combination of a shorter stud/throwout bearing to make geometry work right. The shorter/flat pressure plate needs to move throwout bearing forward.

There's a few odd ones out there...the Centerforce DF for example that can take a little work to get enough clearance also.

I default to watching the throwout arm to see how it is positioned exiting the bellhousing. When at rest...you want it past center toward the front of the car. I try to get it where it is almost touching the front of the bellhousing hole when at rest. That gives the most range of travel/adjustment. You have to make sure it doesn't rub the pressure plate when it's all the way forward.

I like to race/powershift...so I like the clutch to release quick with little pedal movement/freeplay..hence my setup. A nice working stock one has it where you can feel it go "overcenter" and then get a little easier at full travel. My setup will not get as much "overcenter" feel.

There's two stud lengths and two throwout bearing lengths to make it all work with either clutch. Years ago there were 3 of each. You can get adjustable studs and McLeod sells a nifty throwout bearing that I like to use. It has slip rings to allow you to make it one of three different lengths. Slick deal when you want it perfect.

Was it working OK with old clutch?

JIM
The ball stud in the bell housing has not been changed since I took it apart.

The throw out bearing started to make some noise, so that is why I pulled the tranny out.

I am replacing everything with bronze/brass pilot bearing, LUK clutch and pressure plate with a Timkin all metal throw out bearing. I believe the new pressure plate is the short/flat type.

I bought this car in Jan 16 from a private owner in Houston. It was shown at the Keels and Wheels show a couple years ago.

George
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Old Aug 20, 2016 | 10:15 PM
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Just comes down to if it was working OK before. If so...just use what you have.


Could you get freeplay? Did it release at the right pedal travel?


JIM
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Old Aug 21, 2016 | 03:21 PM
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Default Fork ball stud.

If you do replace the stud with an adjustable one use Loctite on the threads.
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