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Aluminum radiators and related topics

Old 11-12-2017, 02:02 PM
  #81  
rogernison
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt View Post
The hardest part of this project would be removing the factory shroud, assuming you want to save it. Some guys just cut it in half and remove two pieces. If you go that route you will have the fans installed in about an hour. I would think the wiring would take more time than installing the fans.

Installation Guide
Will I need to upgrade my alternator or will the original work OK ?
Thanks! I have the original shroud out, in one piece, removed the lower piece the th upper piece thru the passenger side. The car has factory A/C

Last edited by rogernison; 11-12-2017 at 02:10 PM. Reason: Additional comment
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Old 11-12-2017, 07:29 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by rogernison View Post
Will I need to upgrade my alternator or will the original work OK ?
I suggest a minimum of 65a for dual fans which is probably what the car came with so you could get away with what you have. I recommend 80-100a just to have little extra cushion
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Old 11-15-2017, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Corvette400hp View Post
I had a DeWitt 2 core radiator for the last 10 years. It never cooled either one of my motors small block and big block in the 180 to 190 range which is what I was hoping for. I'm hoping for different results with a Champion radiator.
I have a 454 BB with a DeWitts Heavy Duty radiator it works perfectly
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Old 01-16-2018, 03:18 PM
  #84  
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So Dewitts for trim and polish, but it comes at a premium. Champion if you're on a budget. Both seem to get the job done. Is the black ice on the Dewitt's worth it?

I'm still making a wish list so I'm hoping for more info. Besides the obvious on electric fans vs mechanical with HP loss, cooling effects, electricity draw, what are some preferred combos? dual fan vice one? After reading the thread about cooling the interior of the C3, anyone have try a dual fan? One for the rad, one to circulate air to stop the car from turning into an oven?

And what about tranny coolers? I'm planning on keeping the tranny auto as I have the body of an 80 year old with knees that are held together with hopes and dreams so stick is slowly getting less fun in traffic. Heat kills transmissions and I'm hoping that can be touched in this thread. If it's covered elsewhere, I just need direction.

There's lots of threads on this forum and I've been doing a ton of researching instead of working and for the most part I'm much more educated than when I started.
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Old 05-21-2018, 08:11 PM
  #85  
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I got the Champion 2-row for my car. 75 ac coupe with a ZZ6 crate. I ordered it with their shroud and 16 SPAL hi perf fan which they offer as an upgrade. After some fiddling around with the brackets I ended up making custom phenolic block spacers for all 4 corners. It is solid as granite.

Also I tricked the relay controlling the fan into thinking the key is on all the time. If you shut the engine off when its toasty the fan will run until its cool.

Everything seems very well made and a fair deal. George at Ledfoot Racing has been very helpful with after sales support.






Detroit Speed headlight lift kit FTW !
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Old 06-17-2018, 10:42 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by croaker View Post

Champion Radiator in. 3 core . This temp was after 45 mile run 90 degree Louisiana heat and,5 minutes idling in driveway. No seals in .
What's that retaining bracket that is keeping your plastic shroud hugged tight to the rad? I have a 1972 and need something similar.


Tyrus
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Old 06-18-2018, 09:47 AM
  #87  
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Stock piece.
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Old 08-30-2018, 09:42 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by croaker View Post
Wow that's a lot of radiators. I'll throw in the towel after a couple.
I installed a nice Dewitts radiator in my 71' LT-1. Car runs cool, no issues. Drove to Carlisle and back last weekend - perfect.

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Old 08-30-2018, 10:36 PM
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Old 10-03-2018, 01:15 AM
  #90  
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Have a 142 weiand supercharger thats overdriven so my vette runs HOT. I put a DeWitts in and it lowered average temp by 10 degrees. Old radiator was not original and in excellent shape. After the deWitts the next year I added SPALS. Dual pullers. 15-20 degrees less. Car has not overheated a single time no matter how hard I push it. Those were the only changes I made that would affect temp. Sold on the radiator/SPAL combo.
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Old 10-05-2018, 01:57 AM
  #91  
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I'm starting to do the research on a radiator for my 73 big block resto/mod.
I'll be running a 496cu in, a TKO-600, a/c and dual spal fans.
The three radiators I'm looking at are:
1. DeWitts
2. Be Cool
3. Griffin
Griffin is a good radiator used by many with hot rods. They have great reviews but I found they are epoxied together rather than welded at the tanks. I imagine this is not as preferred as welded. Am I correct in this thinking?
Be Cool has top quality craftsmanship, welded throughout, but they are only available with 1 inch tubes.
DeWitts has top quality craftsmanship, welded throughout and have the option of 1.25 inch tubes.
All three appear to have excellent shroud and fan set ups according to their web sites.
My questions at this time are:
1. How much advantage do 1.25 inch tubes give over 1 inch tubes? And why?
2. What is the advantage of dual fans over a single fan if both are pushing the same amount of air?
3. Is it better to have a shroud that fully covers the radiator fins or a shroud that does not totally cover the fins?
4. I've heard that the new aluminum radiators are manufactured in a way that really only requires them to be two core. Why is this and why wouldn't three cores be better than two?
I think that's it for now!



Last edited by OldCarBum; 10-05-2018 at 02:13 AM.
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Old 10-05-2018, 09:42 AM
  #92  
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Call Griffin and ask why they use epoxy,, generally a company like that has a reason they do it.it may not just be cheaper.
Years years ago when they came out with panel Bond I thought it was ridiculous but after I saw it and use I said holy cow that stuff is dynamite.
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Old 10-05-2018, 10:42 AM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by OldCarBum View Post
My questions at this time are:
1. How much advantage do 1.25 inch tubes give over 1 inch tubes? And why?
2. What is the advantage of dual fans over a single fan if both are pushing the same amount of air?
3. Is it better to have a shroud that fully covers the radiator fins or a shroud that does not totally cover the fins?
4. I've heard that the new aluminum radiators are manufactured in a way that really only requires them to be two core. Why is this and why wouldn't three cores be better than two?
You will find a lot of information and answers on DeWitts Blog page. Click HERE

To comment on the Griffin Epoxy, they are not epoxied together. Griffin was one of the first aftermarket companies to offer aluminum radiators. Back then the only way to furnace braze aluminum cores together was a process called vacuum brazing. Ford Motor company did this as well. The problem with vacuum brazing was about 80% of the cores would braze leak free, the other 20% had tube-to-header leaks. That's where the tubes (not cores) go into a common end plate. To solve this issue all of the end plates or headers were filled with epoxy to seal up any holes. A better process called CAB (controlled atmosphere brazing) was invented which provides near 100% leak free cores and eliminated the need for epoxy. Every car company today uses CAB as their method of brazing and so does DeWitts. You may read other explanations and/or spin on this topic but this is the real story.

1. Wider tubes provide more tube to fin contact and therefore more heat rejections
2. The number is fans is typically determined by the shape of the radiator more than anything else. Square shapes use a single and rectangles shapes use dual fans. The goal is to have 70% coverage with a minimum of 2000 cfm flow.
3. Again, the goal is to have 70% coverage with a minimum of 2000 cfm flow. I often see people complain that a fan leaves some open space on one side or both. You should remember the coolant flows left to right and all of it goes under the fan.
4. I have a specific blog on this topic. Click HERE

I hope that helps you!
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Old 10-05-2018, 11:17 AM
  #94  
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Tom, Thank you very much for the response and explaination in lay men's terms as I know nothing about radiators other than water/coolant go through them and they need to be checked occasionally.
I remember back in the 60's and 70's it was, buy a three core, throw it in and you won't have any problems.
Like everything today technology has changed how we think and build a project correctly.
There is much more research and questions to be asked in building something like a Corvette rather than building a 33 hot rod.
I will check out your blog.
By the way, DeWitts web page is much easier to navigate and much more informative than the others which helps old guys like me a lot.
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Old 10-09-2018, 02:20 PM
  #95  
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Question for Bud or any member that have replaced their 1968-1972 with 350 engine, a radiator that did not have the indent/dimple on lower hose connection.
Did the front stabilizer bar interfere with the installation of the new radiator ?
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Old 10-09-2018, 09:14 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by shark70 View Post
Question for Bud or any member that have replaced their 1968-1972 with 350 engine, a radiator that did not have the indent/dimple on lower hose connection.
Did the front stabilizer bar interfere with the installation of the new radiator ?
Just in case anyone doesn't know about this

CLICK HERE
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Old 10-09-2018, 10:12 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by shark70 View Post
Question for Bud or any member that have replaced their 1968-1972 with 350 engine, a radiator that did not have the indent/dimple on lower hose connection.
Did the front stabilizer bar interfere with the installation of the new radiator ?
Yes. The stabilizer bar rubs against the radiator lower hose and outlet on our 72 Coupe that has a Champion radiator installed by the previous owner. ( this is currently on the list of needed fixes) There is no dimple as needed.
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Old 10-09-2018, 11:06 PM
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Thank you.
Many years ago, I purchased a kit from Zip that contained everything to update/upgrade the suspension - front and rear. The front stabilizer bar that came in the kit is a 1 1/8" bar which is bigger than the standard one on a 350/300 with standard suspension.
My car has been sitting in my garage for 23 years and I am finally getting off my butt and getting it road worthy.
Took my radiator to a local shop and when he did the pressure test , I had bubbles. Some from the rows. Told me could not be sure that he could get to all of the leaks.
My radiator is a 26x17 4 row core.
I am the third owner and have owned the car since March 1979.

Last edited by shark70; 10-09-2018 at 11:08 PM.
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Old Yesterday, 07:24 PM
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Found this site while researching copper/brass vs aluminum radiators
Brazed copper/brass radiators anyone.

https://www.copper.org/applications/...novations.html
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Old Yesterday, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by shark70 View Post
Found this site while researching copper/brass vs aluminum radiators
Brazed copper/brass radiators anyone.

https://www.copper.org/applications/...novations.html
This was a great idea, it just never took off. The process basically copied aluminum CAB but with copper it was called CuproBraze. It was pushed hard by the copper association but no manufacturers invested into the equipment. I use the term WAS because this came out in 2000.

CuproBraze

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