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I have had the Hydroboost installed for a while now and have some driving impressions. I want confirmation that these are "normal". If so I might remove the system.
Firstly brake "feel" is perfect! Stopping seems somewhat improved. However low speed stops, at traffic lights sometimes cause alarm. No brakes ... brakes at low speeds when turning the wheel means I have to MUSCLE the wheel just to make a turn and then NO brakes sometimes. It is borderline UNSAFE in my opinion.
Does the power steering pump use so much fluid when turning that the hydroboost will not operate? It seems the two cannot safely co-exist when both need to be employed.
Am I missing something? What about an underdrive pulley?
While I am not a fan of hydroboost, yours is not functioning correctly. I had it on my Olds Cutlass diesel from the factory. The steering never interfered with the brakes. If it did GM would not have used it due to safety liability. There is something wrong with your setup.
Do your brakes start to lock? even slightly? drive car for 1 mile with stop and goes,, pull in level driveway and turn off engine put in natural.. does the car roll freely?
Way too many people very pleased with the system, myself included. You most likely have an installation error (plumbing mistake) , a bad/weak pump, faulty boost unit. May I suggest you run a search on past threads on this topic and review the diagrams and conversations. I'm sure you'll figure it out. Good luck.
Is it a bought system (Talon or hydratech) or a put together (astrovan) type thing?
Are you using the regular vette pump?
Backpressure on the return line of the hydroboost unit can sometimes be an issue.
Did you T into the pump return line? And did you leave the straight through part of the T on the steering system and the 90 deg part to the hydroboost?
Mine is new this year and I've only got a hundred miles or so on it but the brakes are really good, still getting used to how little movement the pedal needs, been a few hurried stops and I get a real close look at how clean the windshield is....
I will admit that there has been a couple of times when I'm off the throttle quick and braking fairly hard while trying to turn tight that the steering seems a little tighter than normal but otherwise has been acting normal
M
My 06 Avalanche has hydroboost. The only difference I notice vs a traditional vacuum-based setup is pedal kick-back when I start the car with my foot on the pedal. Other than that, I haven't noticed any difference in behavior.
Last edited by Shark Racer; Aug 23, 2016 at 09:07 PM.
I have a hydratech system. I wanted it "right" ... it was installed by an "expert" ... in fact the same guy that wired by spals incorrectly. So, there might just be an installation problem.
Is it a bought system (Talon or hydratech) or a put together (astrovan) type thing?
Are you using the regular vette pump?
Backpressure on the return line of the hydroboost unit can sometimes be an issue.
Did you T into the pump return line? And did you leave the straight through part of the T on the steering system and the 90 deg part to the hydroboost?
Mine is new this year and I've only got a hundred miles or so on it but the brakes are really good, still getting used to how little movement the pedal needs, been a few hurried stops and I get a real close look at how clean the windshield is....
I will admit that there has been a couple of times when I'm off the throttle quick and braking fairly hard while trying to turn tight that the steering seems a little tighter than normal but otherwise has been acting normal
M
Your problem is what I had, and why I am asking the op my question...
The space between the HB brake rod to the MC sometimes to close.. When the brake fluid gets a little warm and the ps fluid also does there is a slight expansion in that area, and if you are right there with very little peddle clearance to braking, your to close..
I took the small aluminum extention rod out of the MC and drilled it another 1/8" deeper... All problems with steering and slow return braking went away
Your problem is what I had, and why I am asking the op my question...
The space between the HB brake rod to the MC sometimes to close.. When the brake fluid gets a little warm and the ps fluid also does there is a slight expansion in that area, and if you are right there with very little peddle clearance to braking, your to close..
I took the small aluminum extention rod out of the MC and drilled it another 1/8" deeper... All problems with steering and slow return braking went away
Not my case this time though, old brakes were just really sad so I had a tonne of travel compared to now
The expansion problem shows up frequently on conversions. I put the clearance at the pedal stop rather than the pushrod (only a tiny amount there) Everything expands and if the pedal can't go up so the brakes start to go on.
Mine was set with about a 1/4 clearance to the stop and I actually dropped it another 4 or 5 turns on the clevis today to lower the pedal some more for better foot placement
M
Not my case this time though, old brakes were just really sad so I had a tonne of travel compared to now
The expansion problem shows up frequently on conversions. I put the clearance at the pedal stop rather than the pushrod (only a tiny amount there) Everything expands and if the pedal can't go up so the brakes start to go on.
Mine was set with about a 1/4 clearance to the stop and I actually dropped it another 4 or 5 turns on the clevis today to lower the pedal some more for better foot placement
M
A lot of people think that will fix it, for some it does... But for me I had plenty of clearance in the peddle... But the clearance between the MC and the HB push rod is NOT effected by the peddle adjustment ... Yes, if the peddle is set to fight it will also do this... But I have seen now that it is usually the clearance between the mc and HB that drive people crazy... They think they have peddle clearance and yet brakes still lock after a run or steering gets choppy
That is a good point and something that I'll have to remember if I have one acting weird.
M
How you test it is, after a run, pull in the drive way, in neutral car should roll freely, if not, get out a wrench, loosen up both bolts that hold on the M/C to the HB, if the brakes free up.. your pin is 1/8" to long and needs to be shortened...
Not fan of hydroboost for C3's as an alternative to the factory power brake booster but just last night, I was watching the show Fathom Works on Velocity, and Dan Short had just installed a hydroboost system on a built 69 Camaro and when he took the car out for a test drive, when he hit the brakes, the whole system went numb and the power steering disappeared. You may want to check out that episode and see what the fix was...I did not watch the whole thing to offer up a solution...