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I have a 3 groove pulley for the WP, just sitting now. I installed a March system on my LS-5, that I just rebuilt. I have the front of the motor, newer water pump, all the pulleys, the old A/C compressor, a newer Sanden compressor that was never charged with Freon, alternator, power steering pump, the block that goes on the A/C compressor, crank pulley....have I missed anything? I'd be willing to part with this stuff too
Between you and century old racer I might be able to get what I need and hopefully for a better deal after shipping than what I can get it for from zip. I need the complete alternator and power steering pump bracket assemblies, the pulleys for the alternator and power steering pump, a complete idler pulley assembly with the mounting bolt and adjusting bolt, and a crank pulley. I also need one of the three a/c compressor brackets, the big "C" shaped one that attaches to the front of the compressor. I have the two cast iron compressor brackets that bolt to the cylinder head. Send me a list of what you have and include the prices for it. I need to know as early as possible tomorrow because if I still need to get anything from zip I want to be able to order it before their sale ends tomorrow.
Last edited by TheGreek!; Aug 29, 2016 at 12:52 AM.
I wish I would of saw this a while ago. I went with the March pulley set up and basicly tossed my old stuff. It was GM, I but someone stuck a 396 in my 68 before I got it. Sold it all for 20.00 on Craigslist to the first guy that called. Next up is the repaired and ugly radiator and fan is getting replaced.
I used a March Performance serpentine kit when I swapped to a BBC. Got is used cheap from a member. Swapped to the larger crank pulley to increase cooling. Use a modern PS pump with remote reservoir. Took a little tweaking with the adjustment rod. Adaptor hardline (NAPA) from the PS pump to a '82 high pressure PS line to the control valve. Works great.
Between you and century old racer I might be able to get what I need and hopefully for a better deal after shipping than what I can get it for from zip. I need the complete alternator and power steering pump bracket assemblies, the pulleys for the alternator and power steering pump, a complete idler pulley assembly with the mounting bolt and adjusting bolt, and a crank pulley. I also need one of the three a/c compressor brackets, the big "C" shaped one that attaches to the front of the compressor. I have the two cast iron compressor brackets that bolt to the cylinder head. Send me a list of what you have and include the prices for it. I need to know as early as possible tomorrow because if I still need to get anything from zip I want to be able to order it before their sale ends tomorrow.
I apologize for not getting on here to see this. I just got your PM also. I've been concentrating on mine, to get it done as soon as I can. I tried to get it done so I could drive it to work, once, before I retired, and that was Jul 28.
I hope I didn't make you miss the sale. I do have the compressor "C" bracket, but it was on a Sanden compressor, and I'll check to see if it fits. I may still have the bracket on the old compressor that I have in the cabinet, I'll check. I think I have the alternator pulley (2 groove) the crank pulley (2 groove) and I have the mount brackets for the alternator and power steering pump also. How about you send me an offer in a PM? How's that?
I apologize for not getting on here to see this. I just got your PM also. I've been concentrating on mine, to get it done as soon as I can. I tried to get it done so I could drive it to work, once, before I retired, and that was Jul 28.
I hope I didn't make you miss the sale. I do have the compressor "C" bracket, but it was on a Sanden compressor, and I'll check to see if it fits. I may still have the bracket on the old compressor that I have in the cabinet, I'll check. I think I have the alternator pulley (2 groove) the crank pulley (2 groove) and I have the mount brackets for the alternator and power steering pump also. How about you send me an offer in a PM? How's that?
Thanks but I decided to just go ahead and get what I needed from zip before the sale ended yesterday. I wish one of you guys would have contacted me yesterday so that I could have made a deal with you but since I didn't know when or if I would get a response I was in a bind and didn't want to miss out on the sale prices and the free shipping.
Thanks but I decided to just go ahead and get what I needed from zip before the sale ended yesterday. I wish one of you guys would have contacted me yesterday so that I could have made a deal with you but since I didn't know when or if I would get a response I was in a bind and didn't want to miss out on the sale prices and the free shipping.
I'm glad you got what you needed, but is it really fair to think about counting on somebody else? I know I was in the garage all day, until almost 8 last night, and I didn't come in to get on here.
I did get pics of the parts I have, but I'm not sure how to get them on here, it's different than a few other forums I'm on.
Last edited by USAFVeteran; Aug 31, 2016 at 01:35 AM.
Reason: add photos
why not throw an LS in there?, big blocks are pigs, let the flaming begin
What BS. I did significant research on this and ending up putting a Dart 509 that weighs less than my original iron 327/300hp small block in my '64 roadster.
The Dart has aluminum heads and manifold and with the big hydraulic roller cam Dyno'd at 677 HP @ 5900 RPM. The LSX 454 (Punched out LS motor from GM performance catalog) has 620 HP and requires the GM wiring harness and computer. The Dart is old school and super easy to work on with a Quick Fuel 850 CFM double pumper and dual plane hi-rise Weiand I had on my old LS6-454. The Dart cost me about $10k as I was able to re-deploy my very expensive Lunati crankshaft (turned with new bearings) from my LS-6 454 & my Carillo 7/16th rods. The GM LSX is about $14k with LESS POWER and about the same weight.
The car runs high 10's with Nitto street slick and would run faster if i did not granny shift ( still have original IRS rear end.) I doubt the LSX 454 could get there as fast.
IF YOU WANT A BIG BLOCK GO GM OR GOOGLE "DART BIG BLOCK CHEVY BUILD". Remember: There is NO substitute for cubic inches, turbos and supercharges not withstanding, of course.
The install was relatively easy but I had a shop do it. Everything works, absolutely no issues. Just added a Tremec T-600 5 spd.
You will need to have a shop put a notch in the front of the frame just below the radiator which is what the factory did to make big block fit. Very small alteration and very easy. You will need a big block hood or a low rise manifold if you keep stock hood to make it fit. Otherwise, conversion is no big deal.
Last, no fancy wiring harnesses and computers to EVER worry about.
why not install a 427-454 small block and there will be no fitment problems and you can use all your old accessories. also the will be very little weight gain. http://www.jegs.com/i/Blueprint-Engi...xoCFeIQAvD_BwE
Last edited by PAmotorman; Mar 30, 2018 at 07:29 PM.
Small block 427 or 454 is very nice especially if you have the $$$ to go 100% aluminum. Like I said in my post, i also looked at the new LSX 454 as well as old style 427/454 small blocks. There are several comparisons that have been done and the big block almost always makes more power. It's in the heads. Seems big block heads can breath better than small blocks. I have a Dart 509 with Pro 1 heads and had an LS-6 454 big block before this motor that had an L-88 1st style solid cam and rectangular port closed chamber L-72 type heads that were ported and polished with 2.19 and 1.88 intake valves. It also had 11:1 compression. I had this motor in my '64 roadster for 30 years!!! It was as reliable as a VW bug! Would recommend old style LS-6 or L-72 427 or if you have a few more bucks go Dart 509. The Dart motor can be bored and stroked to over 700 cubic inches in standard deck height. You can make over 900 hp on pump gas and a carburetor with Dart if you go big, big. You would have to reenforce the frame on a C-2 for sure. With the "little" 509 I have there have been 0 issues and no other modifications to car. Easy to work on, no computers other than MSD 6A ignition and coil.
Small block 427 or 454 is very nice especially if you have the $$$ to go 100% aluminum. Like I said in my post, i also looked at the new LSX 454 as well as old style 427/454 small blocks. There are several comparisons that have been done and the big block almost always makes more power. It's in the heads. Seems big block heads can breath better than small blocks. I have a Dart 509 with Pro 1 heads and had an LS-6 454 big block before this motor that had an L-88 1st style solid cam and rectangular port closed chamber L-72 type heads that were ported and polished with 2.19 and 1.88 intake valves. It also had 11:1 compression. I had this motor in my '64 roadster for 30 years!!! It was as reliable as a VW bug! Would recommend old style LS-6 or L-72 427 or if you have a few more bucks go Dart 509. The Dart motor can be bored and stroked to over 700 cubic inches in standard deck height. You can make over 900 hp on pump gas and a carburetor with Dart if you go big, big. You would have to reenforce the frame on a C-2 for sure. With the "little" 509 I have there have been 0 issues and no other modifications to car. Easy to work on, no computers other than MSD 6A ignition and coil.
How can you get 700 CI out of a 9.800 standard deck hight?
What would the bore, and stroke combination be?
How can you get 700 CI out of a 9.800 standard deck hight?
What would the bore, and stroke combination be?
typo- over 600 cubic inches with standard deck height. Just google "Dart 509 build" there is an article from super chevy that did the build in around 2010 with all details on motor.
An all aluminum BBC would be the ultimate. In the mean time, however, I'll have to live with my CNC 415ci, more power than I really need, but less than I want!
