When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If your car is a factory automatic you can use the oem cross member.
The only difference between the 400 and 350 is the bracket you'll need to remove.(350 only) Bowtie overdrives,Summit and others also sell replacement units if that is the way you feel you have to go.
OP did not say if it was a stick shift car...or auto...
My '72 was a Muncie 4 speed.....I cut the cross support on both sides, leaving about 3" sticking toward the center on each end....2" angle iron welded to the now free center section....one large 1/2 in diameter bolt going fore/aft on each end.....the angle iron is on top and bottom of the section, that has to slide to the rear....after the bolts are out.....
another thing I found just silly, was running the pipes through those stupid loops in the cross support...I cut the bottoms outta the loops, and triangulated the left over top of the loops, so the support is still strong...this enables me drop the pipes with ease.....
God, I'm a cheap/lazy bastard, with a expert welder buddy who does my fab work.....
My car was original with a TH400. I kept the factory cross member with the 2004r.
If you go that route, know that the rear pan bolt is hard to get to. The transmission needs to be lifted up an inch or so to get to it if you need to pull the pan in car. (not a big deal)
There are cross members that allow you to straighten out your exhaust. And, the factory routing for a TH400 was possible but too close on the 2004r. I had new pipes run to allow the pan to be removed easily and V-band clamps installed at the header and just after the cross member.
200r4 x member
