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Well, not looking forward to this I started doing the preparatory work for my clutch replacement.
Once the car was up in the air I crawled under with my trusty drop light and flashlight – peering through the clutch fork opening I discovered what my problem must be.
Fully half of the diaphragm fingers on the clutch are not contacting the throwout bearing. Looking through the hole allows you to see the tips of those fingers and the throwout bearing – the clutch fork looks fine.
But with the throwout bearing lightly touching the diaphragm fingers – you can see that at least ½ of the fingers are still ¼” or more depressed – meaning that the bearing will have to move at least that far before all the diaphragm fingers are being used. So something broke inside the pressure plate – no amount of adjustment will fix the problem.
I will be preparing a web page with photos of the process and any tips that I come up with to help with the process. (I already have 3) :D
Once I get that page up I'll post a link.
Of course there will be a lot of "While I'm at it" work most of which will be the cleaning up of the slimy undercarriage of the car and painting (POR-15) various parts.
Anybody have a Tremec they want to sell cheap? - that would be a good "While I'm at it" job :lol:
Re: Clutch problem diagnosed - repairs begun.... (Bob Turner)
OK, I'll be by with the Tremec about 4pm!!! :cool:
Allright, I'll cancel the date tonight :lol:
Tranny and clutch are out - flywheel off no worries - took about 2 hrs-15 mins. I'm having some problems logging onto my web site with teh ftp software so pictures will have to wait for a bit.
Basicly the diaphragm is shot - several fingers are partially depressed leading me to belive that at least a portion of the spring is heat detempered or broken. The clutch fork looks fine - as does the throwout bearing.
Will post pictures of the flywheel and pressure plate later for opinions. The disc was worn badly, so this was something that needed to be done anyway.
>A new flywheel - I still havent decided between an OEM style replacement nodular iron flywheel (lakewood) or a billet steel (Ram) one. I know I dont really need the billet one - but strength of the steel - plus SFI compliance and keeping in mind I am planning a new - stronger motor.
>Fasteners - New ARP flywheel bolts - pressure plate bolts
Re: Clutch problem diagnosed - repairs begun.... (Cali,77,L-82)
Call me if you need an extra pair of hands, seriously.....here to help.
Thx, will let you know - right now - I'm on hold until parts are ordered and delivered - so for the most part I am degreasing - you going to be in Clairemont tommorrow?
Re: Clutch problem diagnosed - repairs begun.... (fauxrs)
I have to replace the clutch too and ordered a CenterForce II setup. I was told to read the orange instruction sheet because of setup problems others had. Problem is there was no orange sheet or any paperwork at all. I think the problem is referencing the ball pivot location to work with the stock fork? I'm going to use a new stock GM fork and fork rod/pin. What comes with the linkage kit you ordered? You still need to retain the Z bar, so is it just the rod from the Z bar to fork?
I was considering the I vs the II. I think the disc is the same for both but not sure what difference there is betwen the PPlates?
Thanks,
Gary