Big back tires...What offset do you run?
The plan will be to eliminate the adaptor and get wheels that actually fit over the brakes, and hopefully not rub anything. I called Centerline, and they told me I could get any offset I want in the wheel I'm interested in.
My thinking is that 4 1/2 inches backset is about the max I can go, and with a 10 wide rim will put my 295 just outside the fender lip by maybe 1/4 inch. The only problem I have, and why I posted,...I don't have the actual wheel to try, and once the tire is mounted.....I own it. From what I understand, when you mount a tire on a wider rim, the section width grows.....this added to the deeper offset may end up being too much tire too far in, causing tire contact with undesirable things.
So,...If you are running 15 x 10 rims on the rear, what offset worked for you, and what tire size are you running? No flares, no cutting of frame, just a bolt on.
I'm thinking of using some 10s with 5.5 backspace. I have a 1/2" spacer outboard to clear the calipers. Using 15 " Weld Prostars. I'm thinking that will work with the Global West control arms in my situation. I'm hanging out to see what responses you get MoneyPit.
Right now the 295 55 15 drag radials sidewall sticks out maybe 1/2 inch, and the tread is all under the fender. Looks like that is the limit to me.
If I can get rims made with 4 3/4 inch backset, in theory the wheel centerline would be exactly the same as what I now have, but the inner rim bead would be hitting my spring end.......and considering the tire section width would increase about 1/2 inch,....1/4 inch each side,...that's too close for comfort.








While you are at it you could.
Add flares.
Use offset trailing arms.
Go with coil-over springs.
That is my plan. I have all the parts. Not cheap though.
Good luck with whatever you decided.
I am not a big fan of spacers. Too much pressure on the wheel studs. I like the rims right up again the rotors.
Btw mine will have 1/2" ARP wheel studs also.
Bman
If I order the wheels I'm thinking about, it'll be Feb before I see them, and so I really need to figure out weather they'll fit, and what I might need to get done to make them fit.
Can the spring be shortened easily, or do I need to order one made shorter? I do plan to keep the rear sway bar too,....and right now it's got about 1/2 inch clearance to the tire.
Check my math. Right now the 9 inch Welds are 5 1/2 backset, but I have 1 1/4 inch wheel adaptors. To me, that is a 4 1/4 inch effective backset, and it does clear everything fine. If I get 15x10 rims with 4 1/2 inch backset, and eliminate the wheel adaptor,..my new backset will be 1/4 inch closer to suspension/frame than it is now. The outer rim bead will be 3/4 inch further out than my 9 inch rim is now. Last night I measured the fender lip to rim bead to be 1/4 inch, where the rim is inside the lip....with the new rim, I'm thinking it'll be 1/2 inch outside the fender. If my thinking is right,..that moves the whole tire only 1/4 inch out further than it is now.
Here's a shot of the tires as it sits now.
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If I order the wheels I'm thinking about, it'll be Feb before I see them, and so I really need to figure out weather they'll fit, and what I might need to get done to make them fit.
Can the spring be shortened easily, or do I need to order one made shorter? I do plan to keep the rear sway bar too,....and right now it's got about 1/2 inch clearance to the tire.
Check my math. Right now the 9 inch Welds are 5 1/2 backset, but I have 1 1/4 inch wheel adaptors. To me, that is a 4 1/4 inch effective backset, and it does clear everything fine. If I get 15x10 rims with 4 1/2 inch backset, and eliminate the wheel adaptor,..my new backset will be 1/4 inch closer to suspension/frame than it is now. The outer rim bead will be 3/4 inch further out than my 9 inch rim is now. Last night I measured the fender lip to rim bead to be 1/4 inch, where the rim is inside the lip....with the new rim, I'm thinking it'll be 1/2 inch outside the fender. If my thinking is right,..that moves the whole tire only 1/4 inch out further than it is now.
Here's a shot of the tires as it sits now.
Last edited by 73C34me; Oct 19, 2016 at 06:39 PM.
While you are at it you could.
Add flares.
Use offset trailing arms.
Go with coil-over springs.
That is my plan. I have all the parts. Not cheap though.
Good luck with whatever you decided.
I am not a big fan of spacers. Too much pressure on the wheel studs. I like the rims right up again the rotors.
Btw mine will have 1/2" ARP wheel studs also.
Bman






Seriously if you are going to spend some coin go with 17-19 in. wheels. I have 18's on the back and 17's on the front and you can get ultra high performance tires with this combo.
15in. performance rims and tires have gone by the wayside, you should consider the bigger rims lots of choice in rims and tire.
BTW I like your new paint job, nothing is better than Dark Red Claret in my books
Theses tires stick like Gorilla glue, and the traction is the reason I got them. With regular street tires I was overpowering the tire in second , after the shift. I thought it was a dangerous situation, and so went with R2 compound drag radials. Problem solved.
In researching my options, and seeing all the 18 inch rims hovering around 9 or 9 1/2 inches, I decided the cost verses the tread width gain was not worth it. plus the fact I personally don't like the big wheel rubber band tire look......Just my opinion.
Thank's Wayne. I have always liked the dark claret color, and thought my frost beige with the doeskin interior was kind of bland. It pops now, and I am glad I did it. BTW I did end up getting the AFR 210 Eliminators heads.....still sitting on the bench for now. Got the honey do list happening right now.
Last edited by The Money Pit; Nov 5, 2016 at 08:59 PM.










