30 spline inner axles



Does anyone know where these can be found? I have a differential (4.11) I need beefing up to handle @600hp.
I have Tom's outer axles and 3" half shafts already.
I have the 4.11 rear also and offset Van Steel TA.
Need to find the stub axles to go into the diff.
I will post in the For Sale in case any member has some.
But throwing this here in case anyone knows a vendor with some.
Txs
Dennis (Bman)





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Vansteel-
https://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?f...p=3032&ID=2672



I bought their coil over offset trailing arms with johnnie joint front bearing from them for a great price.
Might just have to call them.



I see them at the same price as Van Steel but it mentions 12 bolt conversion. Van Steel does not.
Did either/both of you go with the 30 spline and have to have a lot of modifying done to the case in order to complete the swap from the stock 17 spline to the HD 30 spline? I know the spider gears need changing.
Did you go all out and do a 12 bolt conversion at the same time?
And is that necessary in order to convert to the 30 spline setup?
Txs for any info.
Dennis
Last edited by bmans vette; Oct 26, 2016 at 04:45 PM.
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If I read you correctly....I can still do this with my existing 4.11 rear end without changing to a 12 bolt carrier.
Correct?
I am building a 600hp project SBC. Not the torque numbers that a big block will produce or a 1000hp engine will produce.
Don't want to break the bank either.
Txs for your info.
Dennis





If I read you correctly....I can still do this with my existing 4.11 rear end without changing to a 12 bolt carrier.
Correct?
I am building a 600hp project SBC. Not the torque numbers that a big block will produce or a 1000hp engine will produce.
Don't want to break the bank either.
Txs for your info.
Dennis
I set the gear lash to have perfect forward and reverse contact. Richmond always seemed to have a whine under compression braking and i called them and they said it was normal.
I've had some u-joints eat up the needle bearings and end caps. I use spicer. The stock outers were a problem. I never broke one, but I took out a set that they had been hammer till they almost had a full tooth of rotation. I now use tom's outers.
The whole problem with a vet stock type rear end is the support or rather the lack of support. All you have is a the trailing arm and the lower Smart strut which is better than stock. the bending forces of going around a turn with wide rear tires puts tremendous pressure on the yoke shaft spline end on the posi cross pin. With a non hardened yoke, the yoke end wares away down to the c-clip and you have slop and failure. Once I went to the super yokes to would break the or crack the posi housing is why I went to the super toms posi units. I would have my foot on the floor out of a turn and just hear bad noises and limp home.

So I also learned to limit the rear wheel vertical travel (Squat) to keep the load off the posi pins. That is why I went to a 500+ rear spring years ago when I was doing the NHRA bracket drag racing series.
The real fix is to go to a 6 link with the upper arm and stiff spring and eliminate the thrust on the yoke ends and posi cross pin.
IMO my 17 super yoke has withstood more abuse than most have ever done to their Vette with mid 600 hp in both my 427 and 434 ci Motown block sbc with 12 inc rear road racing slicks
Last edited by gkull; Oct 27, 2016 at 02:09 AM.
cryo treatment and rem polishing for the super tens to help in the strength department.
Hope this helps,
Dave



I set the gear lash to have perfect forward and reverse contact. Richmond always seemed to have a whine under compression braking and i called them and they said it was normal.
I've had some u-joints eat up the needle bearings and end caps. I use spicer. The stock outers were a problem. I never broke one, but I took out a set that they had been hammer till they almost had a full tooth of rotation. I now use tom's outers.
The whole problem with a vet stock type rear end is the support or rather the lack of support. All you have is a the trailing arm and the lower Smart strut which is better than stock. the bending forces of going around a turn with wide rear tires puts tremendous pressure on the yoke shaft spline end on the posi cross pin. With a non hardened yoke, the yoke end wares away down to the c-clip and you have slop and failure. Once I went to the super yokes to would break the or crack the posi housing is why I went to the super toms posi units. I would have my foot on the floor out of a turn and just hear bad noises and limp home.

So I also learned to limit the rear wheel vertical travel (Squat) to keep the load off the posi pins. That is why I went to a 500+ rear spring years ago when I was doing the NHRA bracket drag racing series.
The real fix is to go to a 6 link with the upper arm and stiff spring and eliminate the thrust on the yoke ends and posi cross pin.
IMO my 17 super yoke has withstood more abuse than most have ever done to their Vette with mid 600 hp in both my 427 and 434 ci Motown block sbc with 12 inc rear road racing slicks
Real practical experience.
I appreciate the breakdown.
You saw what my rear suspension plans are, right?
Van Steel offset TA with coil over setup and johnnie joint front bearing. Coil overs are QA1 single adjustable with 500# springs. Of course, I'll reinforce the crossmember above the diff.
Use solid spicer ujoints and 3" half shafts from Fort Wayne Clutch. Have Tom outer axles...the 1350 setup I got from Lurch here on the forum.
The only piece of the puzzle is what to do with the diff that I have now. 4.11 that was rebuilt but I have no documentation on it so I figure it will go to one of our resident rear end guys. I have done straight axle rear build but never a Vette IRS.
Plan on having the diff yokes hardened. In your opinion would having the Van Steel 17 splines hardened and polished, use the spool type ujoint brackets on the outside and replacing the posi main cap with the billet one be enough for my 600hp target? I will ask Gary Ramadei to look at doing his Super 10 setup if need be.
See anything I am missing?
Txs
Dennis



cryo treatment and rem polishing for the super tens to help in the strength department.
Hope this helps,
Dave
Can I go with hardened 17 spline setup and basically do what I understand to be a Super10 setup? Or will I eventually need the 31 spline axles. I should also mention that this will be a 6spd stick with 10" rims and 295-305 rear tires. Spirited street driving, maybe a track time run but no autocrossing. Power Tour definitely.
Txs again for your input also
Dennis





See anything I am missing?
Txs
Dennis

Some times I take off with my 335 rear tires and worry about a bad noise.... they still keep on ticking I see a blue haze in the rear view mirror.
IMO get good yokes a big pound spring and drive it hard till something breaks. when ever I had something break I went with better




Some times I take off with my 335 rear tires and worry about a bad noise.... they still keep on ticking I see a blue haze in the rear view mirror.
IMO get good yokes a big pound spring and drive it hard till something breaks. when ever I had something break I went with better







