Stock 327 short block limits???

For budgetary considerations, I might just do a cam and top end of the 327 for a year or so until I can get a 400 to 427 small block short block that is built, then transfer the top end over, except for cam of course.
The base 327 has crappy heads, 8.5:1 compression, 2 bbl carb.
By switching to 64cc heads, I can get about 9.75:1 compression, maybe a tad more with the right gasket set.
So - I was thinking a roller conversion cam, AFR heads, 195 to 210cc runners (looking to the future). Air gap intake, 4bbl, headers, etc.
So - what are the limits of a stock 50 year old short block 2 bolt main? Both HP and rev limits? I think the above setup could EASILY put out 350+ HP, maybe a tad more.
I don't want to blow the short block, but won't cry if I do, unless I break a piston and ruin an AFR head.
So can the block and rotating assembly handle 350 HP and 6,000 RPM?
EDIT: First pic is what I envision the final look to be. The rest of the pics are of the actual car. My first '67 had the nose stripe and a vinyl top, so I'm just partial to them, plus they set it apart IMHO.
It has a deluxe interior, with something I've never heard of - a bench/bucket front seat, it even has courtesy lights for the back seats.
Last edited by Coach62; Oct 30, 2016 at 08:10 PM.
Dart 180 heads-64cc, Air Gap, Comp .510/520 hyd roller and a 750 Holley DP.........it was a friends car....he beat it repeatedly for about a year...blew the Borg Warner.....in went a TKO500...and 3.73 posi.
It ran 12.80 on Drag Radials in this form with the stock short block from 1969.....shifting at about 6200-6300......
It finally lost oil pressure and was jerked for a 383.......
Point is that this pristine car was driven HARD.....and it survived quite a while.
I say go ahead.
BTW....it made about 400-410 at the crank......the 5 speed transformed it too.
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Oct 29, 2016 at 10:25 PM.

Dart 180 heads-64cc, Air Gap, Comp .510/520 hyd roller and a 750 Holley DP.........it was a friends car....he beat it repeatedly for about a year...blew the Borg Warner.....in went a TKO500...and 3.73 posi.
It ran 12.80 on Drag Radials in this form with the stock short block from 1969.....shifting at about 6200-6300......
It finally lost oil pressure and was jerked for a 383.......
Point is that this pristine car was driven HARD.....and it survived quite a while.
I say go ahead.
BTW....it made about 400-410 at the crank......the 5 speed transformed it too.
Jebby
You wouldn't happen to have that cam part number, would you? Sounds like what I'm looking for.
Also, how hard is the conversion to a roller lifter setup? Never done it.
Again - thanks.
PS - it also has a powerglide, so a conversion to a TH350 or better is also obviously in the cards.
Last edited by Coach62; Oct 29, 2016 at 11:08 PM.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...62-horsepower/
Last edited by azza2u; Oct 30, 2016 at 05:33 AM.
You wouldn't happen to have that cam part number, would you? Sounds like what I'm looking for.
Also, how hard is the conversion to a roller lifter setup? Never done it.
Again - thanks.
PS - it also has a powerglide, so a conversion to a TH350 or better is also obviously in the cards.
Looking back.....it had a Victor Jr., not an Air Gap. MSD Pro Billet Dist., Comp Pro Magnum Rockers, Trend Pushrods, Cloyes Hex-a-Just timing set......1 5/8" Hooker Super Comps with a 2 1/2 X-pipe exhaust and Flowmaster 40's.......LOTS of fun......made neat noises and scared children and old ladies......it will need at least a TH350.....I recommend a 700r4.....and some stall.....
We did all of this as half of an experiment and half because we kmew the parts would lend themselves to another engine if needed. The car was a 49,000 mile original unit......just a neat project...and unheard of even ten years ago....
And they did.....after the 383 was installed...I took ALL of this stuff and installed it on a 71 Z-28.....with a 4 speed Munice and 3.73 gears......ran even better with the 350.
Converting to roller is a snap if you BUY EVERYTHING......you also need a cam button to keep the cam from walking out.......this cover gives an almost perfect .010 end play with the gasket....I have checked and installed over a dozen with the same results: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...0010/overview/
And please invest in a premium Harmonic balancer.....
Here is the my buddies 69' in action at Milan Dragway in Michigan....
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Oct 30, 2016 at 11:35 AM.
The addition of the retro-hyd roller setup adds about 30 HP (already factored into that above number). You can do more than that HP amount also by spending more time/money and chasing higher numbers, entirely doable! All comes down to budget.
We strongly recommend going full-roller, both lifters and rocker. All can be done to look 100% correct down to a single-thick V/C gasket.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. I placed this info up here earlier but we are now able to do the retro-roller build without any cam buttons or chasing cam end play anymore. Already done a high number over here! Setup uses the later stepped-nose cam/thrust-plate with some minor block machining along with a Torrington tru-roller timing chain set. If you do a search you'll find a shot of one finished! Makes the early roller builds now a "walk-in-the-park"!

Looking back.....it had a Victor Jr., not an Air Gap. MSD Pro Billet Dist., Comp Pro Magnum Rockers, Trend Pushrods, Cloyes Hex-a-Just timing set......1 5/8" Hooker Super Comps with a 2 1/2 X-pipe exhaust and Flowmaster 40's.......LOTS of fun......made neat noises and scared children and old ladies......it will need at least a TH350.....I recommend a 700r4.....and some stall.....
We did all of this as half of an experiment and half because we kmew the parts would lend themselves to another engine if needed. The car was a 49,000 mile original unit......just a neat project...and unheard of even ten years ago....
And they did.....after the 383 was installed...I took ALL of this stuff and installed it on a 71 Z-28.....with a 4 speed Munice and 3.73 gears......ran even better with the 350.
Converting to roller is a snap if you BUY EVERYTHING......you also need a cam button to keep the cam from walking out.......this cover gives an almost perfect .010 end play with the gasket....I have checked and installed over a dozen with the same results: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...0010/overview/
And please invest in a premium Harmonic balancer.....
Here is the my buddies 69' in action at Milan Dragway in Michigan....
Jebby
Jebby, how streetable is that cam and setup? I know that I'd be sacrificing some performance going with an AFR 220cc intake runner size, but it'd switch over to the new motor easily.
I might have to go with a milder cam until I get the new tranny, torque converter and 12 bolt rear end with proper gears. I'm assuming it's the 2.73 rear end gears in a 10 bolt. It has a powerglide tranny in it right now so 1st gear is obviously steep, combined with the 2.73 rear end.
Last edited by Coach62; Oct 30, 2016 at 08:15 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...62-horsepower/
I guess it'd work ok as long as I didn't beat it to death and kept it to 6,000 RPM or so.

The addition of the retro-hyd roller setup adds about 30 HP (already factored into that above number). You can do more than that HP amount also by spending more time/money and chasing higher numbers, entirely doable! All comes down to budget.
We strongly recommend going full-roller, both lifters and rocker. All can be done to look 100% correct down to a single-thick V/C gasket.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. I placed this info up here earlier but we are now able to do the retro-roller build without any cam buttons or chasing cam end play anymore. Already done a high number over here! Setup uses the later stepped-nose cam/thrust-plate with some minor block machining along with a Torrington tru-roller timing chain set. If you do a search you'll find a shot of one finished! Makes the early roller builds now a "walk-in-the-park"!
I'm more leaning towards stock looking on the outside (except for tire size) and a show motor under the hood.
I'll add pics if it'll let me.
I thought the 327 was more fun than the 383 because it charged the revs harder......made a better note......even though the '83 was faster....cracked me up that the oil pan was never removed from it....LOL! Hell...we never took the engine out of the car!
I should have bought that damn car.....

Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Oct 30, 2016 at 08:09 PM.

And that's exactly why I AM buying that damn car. I don't want to look back and regret passing it up.
It has 50K miles and looks it, has been stored in a climate controlled barn for most of its life.
At $27K I feel it's a pretty fair price for a '67 in excellent condition.
And that's exactly why I AM buying that damn car. I don't want to look back and regret passing it up.
It has 50K miles and looks it, has been stored in a climate controlled barn for most of its life.
At $27K I feel it's a pretty fair price for a '67 in excellent condition.
That is a solid buy given the market....freakin Vettes are a back seat to Camaros and Chevelles.....
Jebby





And that's exactly why I AM buying that damn car. I don't want to look back and regret passing it up.
It has 50K miles and looks it, has been stored in a climate controlled barn for most of its life.
At $27K I feel it's a pretty fair price for a '67 in excellent condition.
The older small journal 327 just plain suck. GM knew that they were the weak link and that is why 68 went to the large journal crank shaft for 302, 327, and 350
I built a true 8000 rpm large journal. 060 over bore 3.250 stroke motor for use in a restricted carb size class circle track car and it later went into my two 4 barrel tunnel rammed street rod
I would not recommend a pre 68 327 or non rs. SS 67 to any body. The 2 speed glide. Look around for valuable 67s
Last edited by gkull; Oct 31, 2016 at 06:59 AM.
I would start with the nicest car you can afford and go from there.....
It is the same problem any of these old cars have....you cannot make a return on investment unless you are VERY crafty and extremely talented or have a garage full of NOS parts.......
All of the RS and SS and Big Block L78 and whatever cars all trade in a high circle somewhere outside of dreams and Barrett Jackson-ville......
That ship has sailed........you will pay BIG for ANYTHING with a pedigree.
The small journal 327 is fine....I forgot to tell you the one above was a one year only large journal......
At the RPM we are talking......it is pointless to discuss.
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Oct 31, 2016 at 12:21 PM.

The older small journal 327 just plain suck. GM knew that they were the weak link and that is why 68 went to the large journal crank shaft for 302, 327, and 350
I built a true 8000 rpm large journal. 060 over bore 3.250 stroke motor for use in a restricted carb size class circle track car and it later went into my two 4 barrel tunnel rammed street rod
I would not recommend a pre 68 327 or non rs. SS 67 to any body. The 2 speed glide. Look around for valuable 67s
I CANNOT buy a crate restoration for $5K and slip it in over a weekend. I personally don't want a "restorable" car at this point in my life unless it's just too good to pass up. I just don't have the time to restore a car, and hiring someone else to do it is the definition of a money pit, unless you have a pit full of money :-)
I wasn't looking for this car, it fell into my lap. I kinda feel like it was meant to be. I won't bore you with the full story, but this car was clearly meant to be - if you knew the full story.
I already built one '67 in the 80's and look forward to doing another one, only this time I won't make the mistake of selling it.
BTW - my first '67, I bought it in 1980 I believe I paid around $1,200 for it. Wonder what it would be worth now. Oh - and it had a base 327 and a glide in it also - at least at first.








