HELP - Negative battery cable melted apart
I installed long tube headers on my 1968 Convertible. I wrapped all the wiring inside of DEI wiring protectors. They are insulated and protect the wires up to several hundred degrees, even with that protection you do not want to let the wiring anywhere near the headers. They make the protective wraps in different internal sizes and various lengths. I also put all my fuel lines inside these protectors to avoid a fire from the headers proximity to the fuel system.
A loose battery ground connection will not help your car even without the major short you had. If the ground connection is not tight it makes resistance and with that comes heat and the heat is your batteries worst enemy.
You should have your alternator and battery checked out to be sure they survived your little short.
Got it all fixed up and put back together, but (of course) now have a new set of problems.
The minor one: Something near the front of the engine (I suspect alternator / belt) makes a whine ONLY when you gas the engine some. I took the alternator in and it tested out fine. Read that maybe the belt was too loose (new belt) or needed some belt conditioner - thoughts?
The bigger one: Upon said test fire where I found the engine whine, I went to turn the car off and the engine wouldn't stop. Took the key out and everything and it just kept running. I got it to stop by putting the key back in, 'starting' it again (flywheel grinding noise of course) and then turning it off and it stopped. I want to put the alternator on and root out the noise at the front of the engine, but what do I do if it won't turn off again? What's the SAFEST way to get the engine to stop running if this happens again? Any things to check before I fire it up again?
Thanks again,
Hud
Also, thanks for the tip about the distributor cap wire that will kill the engine. I'll make sure I know how to do this just in case I have to!
Hud













