i bought a set of heads that were rebuilt they have been sitting for a few years should i change valve seals there a all new stainless valves in them
they have not been run

 

I wouldn't. They haven't been subjected to any heat cycles, so nothing is wrong with them. What are you putting together?

 

just a mild 350 also looking for a camshaft some thing for decent fuel economy but decent power any thing would be better than the whopping 180 hp i have now looking for about 275 to 300 hp
have Edlbrock intake 2101 882 heads they have been shaved stainless steel valves
cam shaft choice
lunati: 10120100LK
Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,000-5,000
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 204
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 214
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 204 int./214 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 270
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 280
Advertised Duration: 270 int./280 exh.

lunati: 10120101LK
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,500-5,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 214
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 214 int./224 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 280
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 290
Advertised Duration: 280 int./290 exh

0r

summit SUM-K1103
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,600-5,200
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 214
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 214 int./224 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 288
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 298
Advertised Duration: 288 int./298 exh

these are my choices that i have looked at any other
suggestion i like to have power out of the hole i am used to heavy cars
so i am not sure if i need that much torque
th350 tranny 308 rear gear

 

I would as it is a lot easier to do it now, then on the engine later.

 

would it be a good idea to relap the valves too

 

Your valve seals will be fine. As said previously, they have no heat cycles on them. The new ones you buy could have been manufactured a couple of years ago and been sitting on the shelf. They don't go bad from just sitting, have no "best before" date and you don't have to lap your valves again.

 

Thanks any recommendation on cam i mainly use car on the street
i like torque i like the the pull in the low end
will be installing shift kit i really like 2nd gear chirp
this will still be achievable with low end cam

 

Well, I'm not a big fan of the 882 heads as they really don't flow very well no matter what you do to them. Of the three cams you have selected above, I would use the SUM-K1103. I would think with that combo you will end up close to the 300 hp range depending on what you have done to the heads.

 

It would be easier to replace the valves now too...but why?

replace them when they are at the end of their serviceable life, not the beginning.

 

I use the Summit K1103 cam first with the stock iron heads then later switched to vortec heads. It runs well with that cam, slightly rough idle, 18" vacuum and pulls good.

 

Marty, I agree with there being no need to change out the valve seals if the heads have never been installed... unless... they are o-ring seals. If they are o-ring seals, I would remove them and install umbrella seals. No better time and sooner or later you'll be replacing what is left of the o-ring seals.

These should fit with no problems and no machining required.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-mv-1888

Good luck... GUSTO