First, I have read Lars paper on how to adjust valve lash. Sounds pretty simple and shouldn't have any problems. BUT, I was reading in the COMP Cams Install sheet that you should adjust the exhaust side when the intake starts moving and vice versa. I know its not exactly what it says but its something like that. Don't want to go get it and read it again. In Lars it says something like put it at TDC and do both at the same time. Which is correct or are they both correct??

Second, I am putting my timing cover back on tomorrow night and need to know if there is any tricks to it. My oil pan is still on so I'm not sure what if anything special I need to do.

Thanks for all your help. The cam install is going great with all your help. :cheers:

 

Actually both methods will work. I prefer the "just when the other valve starts to move" method. Seems to give a more consistent setting. When reinstalling the cover with the pan on can be a bit of a trick. It helps to grind off the pointed tips on the inside pan seal retainer. They will get hung up on the corners trying to force the cover back into the pan. A couple of #1 phillips screw drivers along with a couple of slightly longer bolts to pull it in help alot. Then replace the bolts with the regular ones when its pulled in. :cheers:

 

I'm going to be doing this today so if anyone else wants to chime in feel free. Right know I am going with the Comp Cams way since I got the parts from them.

 

Unless you have a very long duration camshaft, I would think either method is just fine. Lars method may be faster. :cheers:

 

Instead of asking about the methods, you need to understand what is happening when you adjust the lash. Once you understand that, you will never have a hard time again. You MUST adjust lash when the lifter is riding on the base circle of the camshaft lobe. If your cam has an advertised lift of 220 degrees at .050 inch, you must figure the valve is actually open for about 280 degrees. This means there is 80 degrees of base circle for a total of 360 deg. When you position cyl 1 at TDC of the power stroke, many of the valves will be on the base circle. If you rotate the crank 360 degrees, the rest of the valves will be on base circle. You have to adjust at base circle, because that is when there should be no pressure from the valve spring. If you adjust when the valve is partially open, the pressure from the valve spring will collapse the hydraulic lifter, or you will hold open a solid lifter (depending on how far off you are, you could hold open with hydraulic as well).

A hydraulic lifter has somewhere between 3 and 5mm of travel. You want to compress the lifter about half of that distance. That is the reason they tell you to adjust the rocker until there is no slack, and then another half to full turn. Adjusting the lifter to the middle of its travel, allows the lifter to compensate for valve growth when it gets hot, wear on valve or valve seat, wear of the lifter, wear of the cam, etc. If you don't compress the lifter, it can only compensate in one direction; and that's not good.

Hopefully, this helps you better understand how a lifter works, and that will help you answer your questions. I don't mean to insult or offend, I'm just trying to help people understand their engine. Hopefully, that will give you the knowledge and confidence to keep working on it.

 

The way that worked best for me, was to adjust the valve lash while the car was running. That way, I could tighten until the car began to die, and then loosen accordingly. The car ran the smoothest that way. I didn't have any success the other way.

If you do it my way, try to get an old set of valve covers, cut open at the top, to prevent a mess. Still, mine stayed pretty clean, even without the valve covers.