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The right rear has developed a very much audible squeak that is in time with tire speed while driving. High speed of course covers it up with noise, but I can hear it reflecting off of things as I cruise past. My friend thinks it's the bearings. From what I've heard, that is a $cary proposition.
So what am I looking at in cost and in potential damage I'm doing by still driving it? I also have a moderately long trip scheduled for tomorrow (2 1/2 hours highway). Is there any danger to me driving it? Catastrophic failure at high speed or am I just further tearing up the bearings and surrounding parts?
At least get it up in the air or get under to take a look. Could be exhaust rubbing on a tire, e-brake, could even be a tree branch wedged in there...
I think of bearings as a low speed rumble or grinding. Anyway, lives are not worth the risk of not knowing. :yesnod:
Definitely check the rear wheel bearings.....one of mine began squeaking (because the rollers dried out, stopped turning and welded themselves to the races!) and a few weeks later the bearing disintegrated at 70mph causing the car to veer about and change lanes with a mind of its own.
You definitely don't need that kind of excitement.
If you have the steel ralley wheels with them trim-rings, remove these and try again (passing a wall or else): The noise can be a result of bad or loose trim-ring clips. Especially applies to the non-original chrome-trim-rings ("made in China...") which have clips all around.
What happens to the noise when you apply the brakes?
Unaffected. The brakes were rebuilt (everything but the main steel line to the back) so I believe they are in good condition (although some of the pistons were corroded, now causing a little leakage). But applying brakes does nothing but slow the wheels, slowing the frequency of the noise. I kindof have to take this trip so I guess I'll take it easy and cross my fingers! When I get back I'll see what I can do to bang it into shape.:smash: And I'll take another peek underneath today before I leave.
oh, and I don't have an ebrake....at all so that rules that out. (Was completely frozen when I bought it a month ago, had to be drug onto the towtruck with dishsoap under the wheels!)
Could be bearings or a u-joint. You should be able to check for the noise with the wheels off the ground. Try to keep the side you are testing level so you don't put any strange forces on the u-joints.
What happens to the noise when you apply the brakes?
Unaffected. The brakes were rebuilt (everything but the main steel line to the back) so I believe they are in good condition (although some of the pistons were corroded, now causing a little leakage). But applying brakes does nothing but slow the wheels, slowing the frequency of the noise. I kindof have to take this trip so I guess I'll take it easy and cross my fingers! When I get back I'll see what I can do to bang it into shape.:smash: And I'll take another peek underneath today before I leave.
Thanks guys,
Chris
[Modified by RUXperienced, 4:44 PM 9/18/2002]
I would still double check the brakes. Measure the rotor runout; should be less than .004". I had a squeak once per revolution coming from the right rear, but went away under moderate braking. Turns out the runout was .012", causing the pads to wobble, and the pad retaining pin to squeak. I suspected bearings and u-joints, but was lucky it was an easy fix.
A rear wheel bearing may make more noise when the extra force of turning is applied. In a right turn your left rear bearing will make more noise (if its worn) and a left turn will check your right rear bearing.
Since the noise is in time with the rotation of the tire, I vote halfshaft u-joint. You mentioned that it's still there under braking, which should eliminate the runout/brake pad squeal. I would think that wheel bearings would be more constant and not just a once per revolution squeak. Pull the halfshaft and inspect the u-joints. I had a very small squeak and when I pulled the u-joints one was totally frozen!
I had someone listen more carefully to the noise and it turns out it essentially goes away with braking, good news I think, wish I hadn't ruled that out earlier, would've saved alot of worrying about many-hundred$ repair jobs....