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erratic timing?

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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 06:43 PM
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Default erratic timing?

what would my timing mark jump around a lot? mostly at idle. but a little at most ranges. I thought it may be due to the original dist being worn. I bought a Hei from ebay thinking it would eliminate it. but no real change other than it doesnt run as good as with points dist.

72 coupe 350 fresh original rebuild, bored .020.
500 lift roller cam
thanks
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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 07:29 PM
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I'm thinking the timing chain is the culprit. I've been wrong before.....
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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 07:58 PM
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Check the end play in the distributor. If the distributor shaft is jumping up and down the timing is changing. Also check to see where tie timing advance weights start to come in, the springs could bee too weak and letting the advance start at idle. Could also be an issue with the vacuum advance, unplug the hose from the dist can and watch to see if the timing is stable.

Last edited by '75; Nov 27, 2016 at 08:00 PM.
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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 08:48 PM
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USAFVeteran, i wondered that but i only have around 500 miles on the build

'75, i just checked shaft end play and its at .22 so ill address that with some shims. i also changed my springs and it seemed to help. I'll check locally for some tomorrow. thanks to both
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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 08:59 PM
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Just went through the exact same thing in my 1969. Timing jumping around at idle. My understanding is that unless all parts of your distributor are tight, this is the exact type of symptom you will see.
Lots of bushings and springs etc that just plain wear out.
But I am no expert,,, I just had my distributor rebuilt so I will be installing and testing it in the next few days and will let you know. Pete
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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 09:33 PM
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I was taking into consideration that you just changed the distributor. And I read that the engine is new. Did you build the motor?
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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 09:36 PM
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Might be timing chain slack
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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 09:37 PM
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Just to eliminate the timing chain and gears, take the cap off the distributor so you can see the rotor. Turn the motor over for a few cranks on a ratchet. Mark the spot on the balancer, on the timing marks so you know where it is. Then turn the motor the opposite direct you just did, until the rotor moves. That will tell you the slack, if any in the chain. After that, you'll know if it's chain/gears or distributor.
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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by olelucky
USAFVeteran, i wondered that but i only have around 500 miles on the build

'75, i just checked shaft end play and its at .22 so ill address that with some shims. i also changed my springs and it seemed to help. I'll check locally for some tomorrow. thanks to both
.22 is almost a quarter of an inch. Did you mean to put that measurement?
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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 09:53 PM
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Yeah, .22" is way too much, try to get it down to .015".
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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 11:11 PM
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Before going too far I suggest trying another timing light. A bad light will do the same thing.

Tom
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Old Nov 28, 2016 | 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by olelucky
USAFVeteran, i wondered that but i only have around 500 miles on the build

'75, i just checked shaft end play and its at .22 so ill address that with some shims. i also changed my springs and it seemed to help. I'll check locally for some tomorrow. thanks to both
With .220 end play you must be getting a timing variation jump of 7 or 8 degrees. I don't think I've ever seen one with that much slack. At least it's a fairly easy fix.
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Old Nov 28, 2016 | 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Sky65
Before going too far I suggest trying another timing light. A bad light will do the same thing.

Tom
Try a different light, or another plug wire.

Also, MSD ignitions have been known to give false light readings.
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Old Nov 28, 2016 | 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by mikem350
Try a different light, or another plug wire.

Also, MSD ignitions have been known to give false light readings.
I've had my MSD tach drive distributor and 6AL box for about 8 years. Even rebuilt the motor and changed cams, and have always had a steady timing mark with the light.


Are you sure it's not the light, instead of the MSD? Where did you find this info, this is something I'd like to read myself? Thanks
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Old Nov 28, 2016 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by USAFVeteran

Are you sure it's not the light, instead of the MSD? Where did you find this info, this is something I'd like to read myself? Thanks
Yes MSD even states on their site that lights can false (especially the dial back ones) due to multiple sparks being generated at low RPMs. They sell a light that is supposed to work, I wonder who really makes it???

I was having problems with my MSD 6AL. Search the forum here or go to MSD site.

Let us know what you find!!!

Last edited by mikem350; Nov 28, 2016 at 11:19 AM.
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Old Nov 29, 2016 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mikem350
Yes MSD even states on their site that lights can false (especially the dial back ones) due to multiple sparks being generated at low RPMs. They sell a light that is supposed to work, I wonder who really makes it???

I was having problems with my MSD 6AL. Search the forum here or go to MSD site.

Let us know what you find!!!

Thanks for the answer, I've never seen that. And no offense, but I don't really need to research it now. Unless mine starts having issues any way. But, I'll keep it in mind, thanks again
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Old Dec 3, 2016 | 07:10 PM
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just wanted to do a follow up on my original problem. i changed springs and shimmed the distributor to .010 . timing mark is much better now.
thanks to all
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Old Dec 3, 2016 | 07:48 PM
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Glad it helped, .010 may be too tight for an aluminum distributor, you may get some sticking of the weights when it's fully warmed up.
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