What to do with l48
Found another person with a zz4 motor that he claims has under 3,000 miles that he got from someone that owes him money, so never heard it run or anything along those lines. Motor doesn't come with starter, plugs or wires. He wants $2,750 for it.
I am stuck on which rout to go with since there are unknowns both ways. My original goal was to have just north of 300 hp in the car, so not looking for huge hp, and wast to be very streetable. It gets about 500 miles put on each year, but that may increase if it is more fun to drive.
Sugestions on what my be better for me would be appreciated. Also, if I take the motor out to set it aside, what's the best way to store it? It is mathcing numbers for the car.
Depending on what "work" was going to be done "after the fact" I think I'd consider a set of the Summit Racing aluminum heads. They are just about $1000 for the pair and in your case most likely don't need any additional work. In my case, 72 L48 auto, I am currently looking into taking it to a 383 instead of an overbored (.030) 355 CID and there are many options. If you plan on going to a "bigger" cube engine & you have the ability to assemble it, there are a number of options on Ebay where a complete shortblock is $1900 +/-, but you must assemble it.
What are your "end game" plans for your car?
The end game is just to have a respectable amount of power in an easy to drive car. We purchased the vette just before our wedding where we surprised everybody by taking off afterwards in it about 13.5 years ago. Since then not much has been done with it and always thought it seemed slower than my 88 turbocoup thunderbird. Right now around 300 hp seems respectable, and at this point don't plan to try for much more. Putting the overdrive in so I am not at 3k going down the interstate. We had thought about taking the car out to the west coast sometime and would want it reliable enough to make the trip.
Unfortunately I am not confinate enough to put a motor together. I have tried setting valves in the past, but never seemed to be able to do it correctly. Was hoping to be under $3,500 for the power train, with about $1,000 in transmission, leaves about $2,500 for motor (the zz4 motor would be putting me higher than this). Also may be doing body work in the future, but that will be years down the road probably. We probably will never be selling the car, but also don't want to devalue it either.
If you have access to friend(s) that can help with engine removal and re-install, get the following crate engine from Summit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/n...9529/overview/
Have a tuner rebuild/recurve your HEI distributor to take full advantage of the crate engine. If you want to do it yourself, get Lars' papers from this site on how to tune your distributor for performance. Ditto for your carburetor.
Have the carb tuned accordingly. Add K&N filter.
If you haven't installed good turbo mufflers, get them. I favor Dynomax Super Turbos.
You will get an honest 300hp from this swap and spend right at $2,500 in parts.
If it were me doing this, I would do the following:
Buy the summit heads OR DART Iron Eagle heads with 64cc chambers and 180cc intake runners. Both are right around 1,000 for pair.
Buy an engine rebuild kit with .030 over pistons, nice hyd lifter cam kit and all the seals, bearings, etc. needed to rebuild the engine.
Tear the engine down and have it bored .030 over, the new pistons hung on the rods and the block prepped by a machine shop.
Get good tools to help with the work and enlist the help of friend(s) experienced at this. Learn from them.
Buy a rebuild kit and rebuild your HEI distributor and lay a recurve down on it
Assemble and re-install the engine
Tune/rebuild the carb for performance
Get good Turbo mufflers and update the exhaust.
You will have $2,500-3,000 in parts and tools but you will learn A LOT in the process.
See my sig. This rebuild above is about where I was around 2004. It put an honest 225hp to the road with 289 torque. Lots of fun and very lively with the 700R4 and 3.54 gears. I have since added the roller cam kit with fresh cylinder head rebuild (2014). Lars rebuilt and tuned my quadrajet for performance back around 2004 and I haven't changed a thing; it runs perfect. I had a tuner with a dyno curve the Accel Performance HEI distributor. I have Jet Hot coated hedmann, true duals with h-pipe and Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers. I would guess the engine can put close to 290hp to the road now. That is in 350-375hp range at crank.
Last edited by TedH; Dec 12, 2016 at 05:28 PM.
If you have access to friend(s) that can help with engine removal and re-install, get the following crate engine from Summit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/n...9529/overview/
Have a tuner rebuild/recurve your HEI distributor to take full advantage of the crate engine. If you want to do it yourself, get Lars' papers from this site on how to tune your distributor for performance. Ditto for your carburetor.
Have the carb tuned accordingly. Add K&N filter.
If you haven't installed good turbo mufflers, get them. I favor Dynomax Super Turbos.
You will get an honest 300hp from this swap and spend right at $2,500 in parts.
The 290 GROSS Hp summit engine referenced above would be a cheap way to get the L-82 225/230 NET HP in your 1980 since the cam specs for that crate engine are the exact L-82 cam specs. Add in a few of the accessories mentioned by TedH above and you would be close to an honest 275-280 NET HP, in today's world. Not Bad..........
Last edited by jb78L-82; Dec 12, 2016 at 05:27 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Found another person with a zz4 motor that he claims has under 3,000 miles that he got from someone that owes him money, so never heard it run or anything along those lines. Motor doesn't come with starter, plugs or wires. He wants $2,750 for it.
I am stuck on which rout to go with since there are unknowns both ways. My original goal was to have just north of 300 hp in the car, so not looking for huge hp, and wast to be very streetable. It gets about 500 miles put on each year, but that may increase if it is more fun to drive.
Sugestions on what my be better for me would be appreciated. Also, if I take the motor out to set it aside, what's the best way to store it? It is mathcing numbers for the car.
In all seriousness I would not buy a used engine from anyone I didn't know well or trusted or wasn't on this forum. Many people have been ripped off with used engines as there are a lot of dishonest people selling them all cleaned up with new paint. I couldn't sell my L48 and that is when I traded it for a gun.
Heads and cam on your L48 will wake it up. 64cc chambers will increase the compression. If your bottom end on the L48 is good then I would go in that direction.
A warmed up L48 with the 700r4 will make a very nice driving car.
Good luck.
I forgot to mention that none of the aftermarket parts have had any "extra" work done to them, they are truly "out of the box" parts.
Last edited by Redvette_22; Dec 14, 2016 at 10:53 AM.
Last edited by lvmyvt76; Dec 14, 2016 at 01:03 PM.
What I would like to know is how can you tell if your bottom end can take a set of new heads and cam. I've been wanting to know this for a long time.
Last edited by tyancey00; Dec 16, 2016 at 08:48 AM.


















