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Diagnose the dead big block...

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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 05:14 PM
  #21  
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Hi

It's basically easy trouble shooting. If you don't need to refill the radiator, there can't be a leaking head gasket.
When I start up my 68 BB, it also spits water out of the exhaust for a little while. That is normal behavior and stops as soon as all is hot.

Rgds Günther
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 06:17 PM
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OP, have you driven the car? If so, how does it run, once you get it warmed up? If you haven't driven it, why not? It's hard to diagnose issues with the car idling for a few minutes, here and there....
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 07:24 PM
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Wet, even dripping wet exhaust after initial startup is normal up to the point it is warmed up. After it warms up there should be no moisture at all out the back. If you are worried about moisture at startup and that is the only issue, go drive it and enjoy it.
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Rcdizy
There probably isn't anything wrong with your car.
just condensation and hot exhaust in winter

Totally normal
Leakdown just to do it
Bad head gasket sometimes will give a miss also think youre ok
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Old Dec 30, 2016 | 02:40 AM
  #25  
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The only time i've driven it was a test drive around san diego in august... at which point it was running OK.

Key concern was that it spent a month or so in CA after i left; getting a few bits and pieces sorted out at a few shops - including interior, wheels and tyres etc - so the worry was that someone had taken it joy riding and busted it before it got shipped.

Over here - I can't take it for a ride yet as i've got some work to do before it will pass a UK roadworthy test... I cant register it until those bits and pieces are done, and don't want to do a half baked job on them..
further challenge is that its also getting new paint - which needs to be done first so that i don't have to register a colour change with the department of transport.

If there is reason for the engine to come out... i'd like to get that done before it goes to the body shop for obvious reasons - which brings me back to a situation where i need to diagnose any major issues and get them fixed before it can be test driven!
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Old Dec 30, 2016 | 03:23 AM
  #26  
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Hi

That's a dilemma. Best of course is to register a car as is, drive it and find out what's wrong with it. Then make a plan and fix.

Starting a resto right away not knowing what needs to be done except for cosmetics is always risky.

Then again, an engine removal is easy task and can be done at any stage .

Rgds Günther
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Old Dec 30, 2016 | 04:25 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by WESCH
Hi

That's a dilemma. Best of course is to register a car as is, drive it and find out what's wrong with it. Then make a plan and fix.

Starting a resto right away not knowing what needs to be done except for cosmetics is always risky.

Then again, an engine removal is easy task and can be done at any stage .

Rgds Günther
Yes.. Perhaps I should reconsider approach...I made the plan after having driven it in the u.s - at which point I was fairly confident the driveline was ok... Now I am less convinced!

I'll get it out today and leave it running for a while to see what happens..
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Old Dec 30, 2016 | 05:32 AM
  #28  
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I think you may have been on cccuk forum previously. Today in most areas of UK it's only a few degrees above 0 C and very damp. When you run the engine you will get plenty of condensation in exhaust. Beware running it for too long without air filter as the carb may ice-up after a while. Things to consider when 'warming-up' engine. Are stock cast iron headers still installed. Is 'heat stove' directing hot air thru inlet manifold operative or jammed. Is there a thermostat installed. My bb engine with ally heads will show 170/180 degrees after 10/15 minutes of driving - it won't actually warm through thoroughly enough until it's been driven for 20 minutes or so. If you are running yours up at idle perhaps covering the rad will speed things up a bit.
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Old Dec 30, 2016 | 07:08 AM
  #29  
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Hi Ross.... Fancy meeting you here

Yes.. I popped out in my jag earlier to pick up a few things from the shop, and rather ruefully observed the plumes of condensation spewing from the exhaust while I was reversing!

Today is perhaps not ideal conditions for it - saying that, I'm hoping to at least see a noticeable reduction as it warms up? (And as Gunther says - the 'do I need to refill the rad' test might help appease my concerns..)
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Old Dec 30, 2016 | 09:10 AM
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Ok.. so now.. I feel very silly!

10 minutes running later; exhaust has cleaned up nicely... now I just have to work out the vacuum issue... and the new puddle of power steering fluid on the garage floor!

many many thanks to all who contributed ideas!
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Old Dec 30, 2016 | 09:21 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Dave Vincec
Ok.. so now.. I feel very silly!

10 minutes running later; exhaust has cleaned up nicely... now I just have to work out the vacuum issue... and the new puddle of power steering fluid on the garage floor!

many many thanks to all who contributed ideas!
Start with the basics. Get some rubber caps, and plug every vacuum port you have, and see if that clears it up. It will give you a starting point for about $5
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