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I've said it in the past, but it is really kind of dumb to use nearly 50 year old cam designs. They were limited by spring technology back then. So the lobes had very little "Area under the curve" very mild lobes.
You really need to buy a cam and kit. cam, lifters, springs, locks, retainers. I recommend 10 degree locks.
lots of stuff on Ebay is not a good deal, it is often a guy just marking up stuff to make a buck.
You would have to talk to the summit tech person to get all the other kit parts.
You need to find a NOS cam and lifters from someone. The stuff today is not the same material that was used originally.
I understand the nostalgia part of having this cam but I agree with GKull 100%. There has been leaps and bounds made since 1970. A good hyd roller or solid roller in this application will run circles around the old stuff.
You need to find a NOS cam and lifters from someone. The stuff today is not the same material that was used originally.
I understand the nostalgia part of having this cam but I agree with GKull 100%. There has been leaps and bounds made since 1970. A good hyd roller or solid roller in this application will run circles around the old stuff.
And your talking about a cam only change in a stock 1970 motor with cast iron exhaust manifolds. What they of hp/tq gains are you talking about.
And your talking about a cam only change in a stock 1970 motor with cast iron exhaust manifolds. What they of hp/tq gains are you talking about.
That's a BIG power limiter. Back in the day, even with the stock heads and cam, bolting on a set of longtubes made a helluva difference on my avatar car- with the LT-1.
This is a real 1970 LT1. I would build it back totally stock. Proper springs, break in and EDM lifters will go a long ways toward a long life. This is why I linked the above parts.
This is a real 1970 LT1. I would build it back totally stock. Proper springs, break in and EDM lifters will go a long ways toward a long life. This is why I linked the above parts.
Real LT1's don't really run nice or produce lots of power like a modern even solid cam and springs can. I'd rather have something that ran nice.
And your talking about a cam only change in a stock 1970 motor with cast iron exhaust manifolds. What they of hp/tq gains are you talking about.
Based on the stock head flow numbers the heads are capable of making 425HP in stock form. Since HP is a calculation and we don't measure it we need rpm. Depending on where you wanted to make peak power, rpm, would determine the amount. From my experience putting a modern day hyd roller in the engine will gain about 40HP, but the biggest difference will be width of powerband and quickness to rpm.
In todays world most products are made to order. In other words they don't keep a stock of parts on a shelf sitting in a where house to be taxed by uncle Sam. They just keep Blanks and when a Cam is ordered its placed in a CNC machine and ground to Spec. Any major Cam Grinder should have the Specs for a LT-1, and should be able make one to order. I see most of the above are leaning towards going to a more modern Cam design. I'm on the fence on this one as well as my next project is a restoration back to original. But I also know that a judging team has no way to Judge a Camshaft.
I had to research it for myself. electrical discharge machining (EDM) or a fancy way of drilling a .012 hole in the lifter to cam surface, so you end up with forced lubrication at the contact point and less oil going to the top end.
That's just about what I lost on both my '69 Vette and my avatar car. That tells me they're working. Both of my cams have remained healthy for many years with them.
I understand the desire to "build it correctly (original)", but like many others have said (hi George!), it really is old technology.
I've built engines with the Duntov cam and they sound great, run well and the customers were happy.
For my own stuff, I want it to run on pump gas and perform well. For example, my BOSS 302 original solid lifter cam performed like a 2 stroke motorcycle, nothing up to 3200 rpm, and then hang on! I swapped in a Chet Herbert dual duration solid stick and gained good lower end performance, a broad power band that pulls to 7K, and runs on pump 93 octane on all but the hottest days.
I'll do something similar with the 427 for my '69.
Hans
Last edited by Wrencher; Jan 14, 2017 at 01:46 PM.
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