Cleaned out the carb, and decided to see if it would fire up with a new battry. It started real easy. I took it around the block and I was very impressed. It ran great, brakes stopped it on a dime, and the tranny was smooth as butter. Had a nice hit at 2nd though. Suspension seemed great too. Handling was very tight. I tried the headlights to see if the vacuum system worked. It did, except that the driver's side light took a lot longer to rise. I'm gonna grease it tomorrow and see if its a leak in a line or something like that. Only had one small problem. Leak under one of the valve covers. I plan to order some chrome ones anyway so i'm not too upset. Also, the cab lights won't turn off. I'm thinking there might be a short somewhere. Anyone had this happen to them?
-J.Thib

 

I've had them not come on before, turned out to be the delay box. The year will be needed for more specific diagnosis.

 

It's an '81

 

While writing this i realized a stupid question, but maybe not, is your headlight switch turned to have the interior lights on all the time? If it is, then that would be your problem :rolleyes: :lol:

Do you know where the delay timer box is? Looks like...

http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=23101&dept%5Fid=1149

Mine is behind the dash on the passenger side, easiest way to get at it is take the glove box out. I had to replace mine. You can check the different leads on this thing to figure out your lighting problem. If they are all correct, then this box is your problem and you will have to get a new one. More than likely one of your door switches isnt working properly, but you can test all that with just the connector that goes into this box.

Ok, now on to testing it. There should be 5 wires on the connector going into this box.

1) the pink&black: should get 12v whenever the ignition is in the on position. This is disable the timer when the ignition is on, so the lights go off when you close the doors immidiatly.

2) Black: should be ground, this one pretty much has to work for your lights to be on in the first place.

3) Orange or Red wire: should be hot at all times

4) White wire: should be ground whenever either door is open, so if you close both doors, it shouldnt read as a ground. (this is how you test door switches)

5) White with a red stripe: whenever you ground this, the lights should come on

Oh, and because of this, when you unplug this timer box from the connector, all the courtest lights should go out. If they dont go out when you disconnect this connector, then that means that the headlight switch must be turned to have the interior lights stay on. I think all the way counter clockwise after the click makes em turn on, then before the click it dims the gauge lights the farthur you turn it clockwise. That might be basackwards, if so, just switch the clockwise and counter clockwise around.

Hehe, this should be posted somewhere, it is actually a pretty good way to diagnose 78-82 interior courtesy lights. :yesnod:

 

Thanks man, I really appreciate your help. I'll try your test tomorrow right after work. And I did check the headlight ****, turn it all the way clockwise and counter, the lights still stay on. Thanks again for taking the time to type that out. :cool:
-J.Thib

 

I determined that it was the passenger door switch. I messed with it for about an hour and it is pretty much shot. I'm gonna order another one soon. For now I just left the orange box unhooked.

 

Sweet man, glad I could help. :cheers: