Put it all back together and now they won't raise with the switch. Took it all back apart thinking the vacuum line came loose, everything was good. Started it up with the dash out and I could hear the vacuum switch hissing. Took the damn thing out and put the original one back in and it works fine (the reason I'm replacing it is because I have to giggle the **** to get the light to turn on).

I decided to figure out whats wrong with the new switch. I found where the tab goes into the switch that moves the vacuum switch broken.



My problem is I bought the switch months ago and didn't change it right away because I knew it was going to be a PITA. It just sucks spending good time and money on crap.

Some day I'll take the good parts from both switches and make it work. It just make me mad that these crappy parts are out there.

Beware of this. I checked the old one with my mity-vac so I know how it's supposed to work. With the switch out (as in the lights are on) the port closest to the dash should hold vacuum. With it off the port farthest from the dash should hold vacuum. I suggest you test this before putting in that new switch.

 

VERY common problem with the new Chinese switches. I went through 3 of them some time ago before I gave up in frustration & figured out how to rebuild my original ones.

Actually, vacuum should pass through the two ports without the valve leaking vacuum.

 

Probably right but this was just a bench test and on the old known working switch.

 

I'm running into this now similarly.
I've gone through 4 new switches so far, after replacing my original one that was shorted out on my '69.
All of them are crap for the retention spring/button that is supposed to engage in the **** shaft end point.
Some of them had instructions on the box for a gentle "break-in period", but that didn't seem to matter. They all exhibit poor retention, and when I pull out the **** to turn on the lights, it pulls fully out in my hand.
Looks like a pretty chincy mechanism used to retain the **** in the one I dis-assembled.
Anyone found a trick to improve this?

 

What I ended up doing is using everything from my original switch that was good and "rebuilt" one of the new ones with these parts. They only thing wrong with my original switch was the dash light dimmer rheostat so my "new" switch has all the old parts and I just used the ceramic part with the rheostat. I also had a problem with the new switches thermal protection circuit breaker. Whenever I turned my brights on after a few minutes the lights would start blinking caused by the thermal protection switch. It seems China doesn't know how to build this part correctly. I ultimately solved this problem with relays.

If anyone is interested you can buy these switches locally (at least a few years ago) but they don't have the vacuum port. It's easy to swap the top housing from your vacuum port switch to the switch that doesn't have it. I think I paid $12 for one at my local parts store a few years ago. Keep in mind they are probably still made in China.

 

Just curious? What brand was the switch? You can pm if u like. I'm asking because I just put one in

 

The two I've bought over the years from Corvette suppliers have no names etc. on the boxes. The one I bought at Autozone is a Wells SW-141. I just looked on Rockauto and they list C3 Corvette headlight switches but in all the pictures there is no vacuum port and no mention of them including the vacuum port. The only mention is in the description that says "without retractable headlight covers".

 

The tab broke on the one I put in. I used the valve below the dash until I mad the switch to electric. I have a new replacement sitting on the shelf.

 

I also have had the issue with the new switches, where the lights all flicker when the brights are on for more than ~10 seconds.
Must also be the thermal protection device in the switch.
Are there any reliable new switches being made as reproductions?
Or is there a source for NOS switches anywhere?

 

I has issues with new switches too, going back 10 years now. I found a good used GM switch for our 75, solved the problem with tripping fuses with the dash lamps. I would look for a good used one out of a parts car.

 

The one I just bought has lectric unlimited on the box .I have seen the name before I believe on wiring diagrams

 

Did you maybe reverse the hoses? It matters.

 

Maybe I got lucky, but my Lectric Limited switch went in easily and I haven’t had any problems with it.