So I replaced my headlight switch today and.....
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
So I replaced my headlight switch today and.....
Put it all back together and now they won't raise with the switch. Took it all back apart thinking the vacuum line came loose, everything was good. Started it up with the dash out and I could hear the vacuum switch hissing. Took the damn thing out and put the original one back in and it works fine (the reason I'm replacing it is because I have to giggle the **** to get the light to turn on).
I decided to figure out whats wrong with the new switch. I found where the tab goes into the switch that moves the vacuum switch broken.
My problem is I bought the switch months ago and didn't change it right away because I knew it was going to be a PITA. It just sucks spending good time and money on crap.
Some day I'll take the good parts from both switches and make it work. It just make me mad that these crappy parts are out there.
Beware of this. I checked the old one with my mity-vac so I know how it's supposed to work. With the switch out (as in the lights are on) the port closest to the dash should hold vacuum. With it off the port farthest from the dash should hold vacuum. I suggest you test this before putting in that new switch.
Last edited by theandies; 02-03-2017 at 05:59 PM.
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vette8121 (11-13-2017)
#2
Burning Brakes
I found where the tab goes into the switch that moves the vacuum switch broken.
With it off the port farthest from the dash should hold vacuum
#4
I'm running into this now similarly.
I've gone through 4 new switches so far, after replacing my original one that was shorted out on my '69.
All of them are crap for the retention spring/button that is supposed to engage in the **** shaft end point.
Some of them had instructions on the box for a gentle "break-in period", but that didn't seem to matter. They all exhibit poor retention, and when I pull out the **** to turn on the lights, it pulls fully out in my hand.
Looks like a pretty chincy mechanism used to retain the **** in the one I dis-assembled.
Anyone found a trick to improve this?
I've gone through 4 new switches so far, after replacing my original one that was shorted out on my '69.
All of them are crap for the retention spring/button that is supposed to engage in the **** shaft end point.
Some of them had instructions on the box for a gentle "break-in period", but that didn't seem to matter. They all exhibit poor retention, and when I pull out the **** to turn on the lights, it pulls fully out in my hand.
Looks like a pretty chincy mechanism used to retain the **** in the one I dis-assembled.
Anyone found a trick to improve this?
#5
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I'm running into this now similarly.
I've gone through 4 new switches so far, after replacing my original one that was shorted out on my '69.
All of them are crap for the retention spring/button that is supposed to engage in the **** shaft end point.
Some of them had instructions on the box for a gentle "break-in period", but that didn't seem to matter. They all exhibit poor retention, and when I pull out the **** to turn on the lights, it pulls fully out in my hand.
Looks like a pretty chincy mechanism used to retain the **** in the one I dis-assembled.
Anyone found a trick to improve this?
I've gone through 4 new switches so far, after replacing my original one that was shorted out on my '69.
All of them are crap for the retention spring/button that is supposed to engage in the **** shaft end point.
Some of them had instructions on the box for a gentle "break-in period", but that didn't seem to matter. They all exhibit poor retention, and when I pull out the **** to turn on the lights, it pulls fully out in my hand.
Looks like a pretty chincy mechanism used to retain the **** in the one I dis-assembled.
Anyone found a trick to improve this?
If anyone is interested you can buy these switches locally (at least a few years ago) but they don't have the vacuum port. It's easy to swap the top housing from your vacuum port switch to the switch that doesn't have it. I think I paid $12 for one at my local parts store a few years ago. Keep in mind they are probably still made in China.
#7
Team Owner
Thread Starter
The two I've bought over the years from Corvette suppliers have no names etc. on the boxes. The one I bought at Autozone is a Wells SW-141. I just looked on Rockauto and they list C3 Corvette headlight switches but in all the pictures there is no vacuum port and no mention of them including the vacuum port. The only mention is in the description that says "without retractable headlight covers".
#9
I also have had the issue with the new switches, where the lights all flicker when the brights are on for more than ~10 seconds.
Must also be the thermal protection device in the switch.
Are there any reliable new switches being made as reproductions?
Or is there a source for NOS switches anywhere?
Must also be the thermal protection device in the switch.
Are there any reliable new switches being made as reproductions?
Or is there a source for NOS switches anywhere?
#10
Tech Contributor
I has issues with new switches too, going back 10 years now. I found a good used GM switch for our 75, solved the problem with tripping fuses with the dash lamps. I would look for a good used one out of a parts car.