Still Chasing a No Start Issue
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
Likes: 546
From: Central Texas
Still Chasing a No Start Issue
I still have an intermittent no start problem on my '81auto. I have been replacing parts and scratching my head.
My starter just had a click when I turned the key. A friend hit the starter with a hammer and it turned over. 13.8 volts at battery. So I ordered a new starter. I put in on and she started right up. Fixed right?
I needed gas so I stopped to fuel up after the starter was replaced. I went to start it and nothing. No click no nothing. I kept trying the key and after about ten tries it turned over and started it.
This morning I made a new ground cable from the battery to the frame. She has been starting today. So far so good. I don't know if this is the fix as I have been trying to chase this problem down for months.
The only thing that I haven't changed wiring wise is the engine starter extension harness. I did order one this morning though.
Stay tuned to see if it continues to have intermittent starting problems or if it is indeed fixed.
My starter just had a click when I turned the key. A friend hit the starter with a hammer and it turned over. 13.8 volts at battery. So I ordered a new starter. I put in on and she started right up. Fixed right?
I needed gas so I stopped to fuel up after the starter was replaced. I went to start it and nothing. No click no nothing. I kept trying the key and after about ten tries it turned over and started it.
This morning I made a new ground cable from the battery to the frame. She has been starting today. So far so good. I don't know if this is the fix as I have been trying to chase this problem down for months.
The only thing that I haven't changed wiring wise is the engine starter extension harness. I did order one this morning though.
Stay tuned to see if it continues to have intermittent starting problems or if it is indeed fixed.
Last edited by Street Rat; Feb 15, 2017 at 01:22 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,156
Likes: 273
From: Dunedin NZ.
Could be the ignition switch is worn? This is what caused the same problem for me, the switch is mounted on the top of the steering column and actuated by a rod as you turn the key. The electrical part is slotted and can be adjusted to ensure the contacts close properly, yours may need adjusting or replacing.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 267
From: Austin Texas
Corvette of the Year Winner 2017
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
assuming you have verified good=replaced the Gnd cable from frame to Engine block.
do not look at the cable and think "that looks ok.."
replace the main Positive battery cable, internal corrosion. fixed.
do not look at the cable and think "that looks ok.."
replace the main Positive battery cable, internal corrosion. fixed.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Check the starter extension harness. 6-way connector on the firewall just to the right of the distributor. Or follow the wire bundle up from the starter. Check all of the terminals in the connector for corrosion or burning.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
Likes: 546
From: Central Texas
I've made negative and positive cables of very large wire. Replaced them all except for the ground cable that I made earlier today. I made a ground for the starter to engine also.
I'm thinking that the factory ground cable possibly broke down inside.
I'm thinking that the factory ground cable possibly broke down inside.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
Likes: 546
From: Central Texas
Originally Posted by TimAT
Check the starter extension harness. 6-way connector on the firewall just to the right of the distributor. Or follow the wire bundle up from the starter. Check all of the terminals in the connector for corrosion or burning.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
I pulled the ignition harness on my 69 a couple of years ago when I had the heads off.. IT's a wonder it hadn't burned the car down.
Took some serious repairs.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
Likes: 546
From: Central Texas
Originally Posted by Haggisbash
Could be the ignition switch is worn? This is what caused the same problem for me, the switch is mounted on the top of the steering column and actuated by a rod as you turn the key. The electrical part is slotted and can be adjusted to ensure the contacts close properly, yours may need adjusting or replacing.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 267
From: Austin Texas
Corvette of the Year Winner 2017
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Perhaps you might start with everything you have done so far ?
describe the symptoms on no start, no turn over ? does it click ?
turns over slow ? fast?
describe the symptoms on no start, no turn over ? does it click ?
turns over slow ? fast?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
Likes: 546
From: Central Texas
Originally Posted by 69Vett
Perhaps you might start with everything you have done so far ?
describe the symptoms on no start, no turn over ? does it click ?
turns over slow ? fast?
describe the symptoms on no start, no turn over ? does it click ?
turns over slow ? fast?
The starter will sometimes turn over and start. Sometimes it just clicks. Sometimes it doesn't make any noise at all. It doesn't matter if the car is hot or cold. It's intermittent. You can never tell when it will not start.
I have checked and tightened all connections.
The only thing not replaced is the engine starter extension harness From the wiring harness to the starter. I will have a new one tomorrow.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,321
Likes: 8,125
From: Napa Valley California
Have you run continuity checks on everything and checked for a possible resistance issue?
Have you checked all your voltages using a good voltmeter?
Your cables may be new but if you have resistance through the cables you made or a low voltage condition, it won't spin the starter.
What size, and type cable did you use when you made your own cables?
If the solenoid is clicking it could be low voltage or even though it is new it could be a bad starter and or solenoid.
Are you by chance running your battery cables to one of those cheap $10.00 battery disconnect devices?
If so, take it out of the system and see what happens.
They can fail.
If you do have one installed, be sure it is connected to the negative and not on the positive side of the battery.
Also try running a temp cable directly from the battery to the starter and see if that eliminates the issue.
Have you checked all your voltages using a good voltmeter?
Your cables may be new but if you have resistance through the cables you made or a low voltage condition, it won't spin the starter.
What size, and type cable did you use when you made your own cables?
If the solenoid is clicking it could be low voltage or even though it is new it could be a bad starter and or solenoid.
Are you by chance running your battery cables to one of those cheap $10.00 battery disconnect devices?
If so, take it out of the system and see what happens.
They can fail.
If you do have one installed, be sure it is connected to the negative and not on the positive side of the battery.
Also try running a temp cable directly from the battery to the starter and see if that eliminates the issue.
Last edited by OldCarBum; Feb 16, 2017 at 02:24 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,873
Likes: 25
TimAT has it. I'm repairing mine once again as we speak. Draws a bunch of current and get's real hot doing it..............
I think the elec fan and a/c run thru that plugin as well. I should have ordered one my self.....
I think the elec fan and a/c run thru that plugin as well. I should have ordered one my self.....
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 19,167
Likes: 1,668
From: Long Island
I'm voting for a rotted / corroded positive feed cable from the battery to the starter. Since this wire also feeds the car this may be the cause.
If it clicks and will not start, it's getting the signal to push solenoid out, but the starter can't draw the voltage / amperage to turn the motor.
If you put an extra wire on the S terminal of the starter to a convenient location in the engine compartment - when the car will not start put 12 volts to the wire, if the car starts it's the start wiring harness.
When the car clicks, hold the key on & try to hear if there is a double click - the starter engaging and then retracting - this usually is a wire issue / safety switch issue.
If it clicks and will not start, it's getting the signal to push solenoid out, but the starter can't draw the voltage / amperage to turn the motor.
If you put an extra wire on the S terminal of the starter to a convenient location in the engine compartment - when the car will not start put 12 volts to the wire, if the car starts it's the start wiring harness.
When the car clicks, hold the key on & try to hear if there is a double click - the starter engaging and then retracting - this usually is a wire issue / safety switch issue.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
Likes: 546
From: Central Texas
The Problem Is Found!
Today I had a new friend come over to help diagnose this problem. He has 25 years in the automotive field. He was eager to discover the problem. I don't think he was leaving until he fixed the car. Helluva guy.
We tested the power that was getting to the solenoid when the key was turned. We got readings anywhere from 6 volts to 10 volts. So we traced the purple wire off of the solenoid. It ended up at the neutral safety switch. After a little more testing the mechanic found that the yellow wire from the ignition switch was putting out a solid 12.6 volts when the key was turned. BUT on the other side of a connector we were getting the same 6 to 10 volts output.
So we cut the connector and reconnected the wires. Yellow to purple. The car turned over and started every time we tried it after that.
The bottom line is...the problem turned out to be a bad connection at the neutral safety switch harness connector.
Thanks to everyone for your input. Maybe this thread can help someone else who is chasing an electrical "ghost".
We tested the power that was getting to the solenoid when the key was turned. We got readings anywhere from 6 volts to 10 volts. So we traced the purple wire off of the solenoid. It ended up at the neutral safety switch. After a little more testing the mechanic found that the yellow wire from the ignition switch was putting out a solid 12.6 volts when the key was turned. BUT on the other side of a connector we were getting the same 6 to 10 volts output.
So we cut the connector and reconnected the wires. Yellow to purple. The car turned over and started every time we tried it after that.
The bottom line is...the problem turned out to be a bad connection at the neutral safety switch harness connector.
Thanks to everyone for your input. Maybe this thread can help someone else who is chasing an electrical "ghost".
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,156
Likes: 273
From: Dunedin NZ.
Glad to hear you got a result! Also good to see you posted the solution, a lot don't so you are left with threads where you don't know if a suggested solution worked or not. Just my two cents worth.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,321
Likes: 8,125
From: Napa Valley California
