"how-to-install" hydrobooster dial-up beware
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,218
Likes: 0
From: Glendale AZ
"how-to-install" hydrobooster dial-up beware
I’m writing this post as a way to contribute to other members and I hope it helps. I by no means know everything. I am a simple weekend mechanic with faults. If there are any gross technical errors I hope some of the gurus will chime in to correct me. Fear not I have my flame suit on! :boxing
I purchased the hydratech braking system to solve my soft braking issue. My system is as follows: new vacuum and Master Cylinder from Ecklers (8 months old), Rebuild factory calipers w/ meticallic brake pads (8 months old), New plane jane disks from napa (8 months old), new rubber brake lines (8 months old).
The brakes would still work and lock up if the pedal went to the floorboard. Otherwise they felt mushy like my waist line.:cheers:
1: First things first. Jack up the car (I use 4 stands on the frame, and then use the jack itself on the front cross bar. This helps to support the weight of the motor from tweaking the frame). Be Safe, Be Smart.
2: Do a no-BS inspection of your braking and Power steering system. If either one is not up to par the Hydrobooster will not help. Look for leaks, drips, or something that is “just-not-right”. This is an excellent high performance braking system. If you have something wrong with the brakes to start, adding a hydrobooster could amplify the problem.
In my situation I gravity bled all brakes. I did this for 2 reasons, A: to make sure there are no air bubbles in the system. B: to use fresh clean fluid. In hind sight I should have used this opportunity to change over to a DOT 4 brake fluid as the directions suggested.
3: Drain the fluid out of the Power Steering (PS) pump by removing the high pressure line. It is the one located towards the bottom of the pump. Let drip for a while.
The prior owner had used ATF (Automatic Transmition Fluid nasty smelling red crap!) fluid for the PS system. ATF does not play nice with the Hydroboost, so I decided to completely flush the entire PS system and will use good quality PS fluid. One trick I did was to aim the hose removed from the PS pump to the drain pan. Then I moved the steering arm back and forth several times to purge the evil red fluid.
WARNING: move the steering arm very slowly! If you go to fast it will squirt out like Old Yeller. Trust me, ATF stings like hell when it gets into your eyes and it tastes worst than 3 day old taco bell food. :cry
4: Remove the Master Cylinder (MC) from the Vacuum Assist Unit (PoS). Carefully move the MC about 6 inches away from the PoS. Be mindful not to crimp or tweak the hard lines from the MC to the distribution point.
Use this time to inspect the PoS for any unusual fluid or crud collecting from the MC. Remember if the MC is not at 100%, you are begging for problems.
5: Remove the drivers seat. This is not a must. If you enjoy pain, S&M bondage, or spending money at a Chiropractors office by ALL means leave it in. Go ahead, I dare ya! :)
5a: Removing the Steering Column (SC). This is your judgment call if you want to pull it. It will make the job easier to get access to the 4 nuts holding the PoS in place. Crawl underneath the dash and determine if you can get the nuts you need to get to with the SC in place. Pulling the SC is about a 10 min job if you have done it before. If you haven’t done it before it will take about 30 minutes (22 of those minutes will be “Dammit what the hell blocking this *cursed thing?” *= insert your own 4 letter word here)
The procedure I list is for my car. Yours might be a little different (extra nut, bolt or spring thingy) be observant, and use this as a guide.
5b: Remove the 3 screws that hold the plastic plate underneath the SC.
5c: Remove the 12point bolt located on the Rag joint that secures the SC spine to the rag joint. I recommend moving the steering wheel so the 12point bolt is facing up and thereby easy-pezy to remove.
5d: Remove the 2 ½ in bolts that are located at the 9 and 5 o’clock position on the Cab side floorboard. Right where the SC goes through the floorboard.
5e: Remove the plate that is on the Firewall (engine) side of the SC. One of the bolts should come out to ease in the removal process. This is what the plate will look like when out.
5f: Disconnect the battery. Bummer there goes your radio station presets.
:sad:
5g: Unscrew the 2 support bolts. The SC will drop a few inches but that’s ok. Be gentle tho.
5h: Disconnect the 3 electrical plugs from the SC. One is thin, black, with 12 or so wires and, simple to get to (you can see it in above picture).
Look above the SC ad you can see the other 2 electrical plugs.
Writers Note: I added the dust to help earn NRCS points. If you want I sell Official Corvette Dust, Dirt, and Grime for $120 per ounce. Just IM me. :D
5i: Gently pull out the SC. Be care full not to snag wires and vacuum hoses. Do not worry the SC is not heavy. Take your time.
5j: Remove the 4 bolts that hold the upper support bracket for the SC.
When the SC is finally out DO NOT turn the ignition key, rotate the steering wheel, or move the steering components underneath the car. If you do the steering wheel will not be centered and will be difficult to get back in place. Then your friends and family will laugh at you.
5 SC installation: Installation is the reverse with 2 help full tips.1 Do not tighten the 4 upper SC support bracket or the 2 support bolts. Just get them started. Once the SC is back in place, align the SC so the Steering wheel is parallel to the driver. Once set then tighten up those puppy’s. 2 Grab a friend to help guide the spine end of the SC back into the rag joint while you hold the SC.
6: Remove the brake pedal rod and clevis pin.
6: OK here is where the “fun” begins. Remove the 4 bolts that hold on the PoS. In my car this is the worlds most PITA bolts to remove. It sucks, It sucks, It sucks. I hate It. :mad
After one hour of scraped knuckles and blood rushing to my head. I gave birth to a Vacuum Brake Booster. :bb
I’m going to take a break and eat some Ice chips.
7: Before installing the hydrobooster into the car. I suggest installing the High and Low pressure lines on the unit.
8: Transfer brake pedal rod clevis from vacuum assist unit to hydraulic assist unit. Make sure you have proper thread engagement. The book suggests 6 threads minimum. My install ended up being around 10 threads.
9: More fun! Install the Hydrobooster into the firewall. The brass can should be towards the top and drivers side of the car. The Pressure lines should be facing down. While installing the hydrobooster the brake pedal clevis should “interface” the brake pedal at the same time. It sucks, It sucks, It sucks. I hate It.
Ok the hard part is done. Its all down hill from here. Take a break.
Here is me dreaming of how great my breaks are going to work
The hydrobooster at this stage.
10: Lube up and install clevis pin/retaining clip into the brake pedal.
When routing the High and Low pressure lines be mindful of the A-arms, hot exhaust, electrical connections, and movement of the steering control valve.
11: Connect the shorter High pressure line to the bottom of the PS pump.
12: Connect the longer High pressure line to Power Steering Control Valve.
When all of the High pressure lines are connected you will end up with an extra High pressure line that came with your car originally. Don’t fret this is normal. Simply give the extra hose to a friend as a “crazy straw” to drink soda out of.
13: Connect all of the low pressure lines together with the brass “T” connector. Make sure the hose clamps are secure and tight.
14: Install the SC. The reverse of step 5.
15: Connect the MC to the Hydrobooster with the supplied nuts.
16: Adjust your brake pedal height to your liking. Pay attention to when the Brake light switch engages during the brake pedal travel. Don’t forget to adjust the Brake light engagement distance from the pedal and Tighten brake pedal rod to clevis jam nut firmly.
OK all the goodies should be back in the car (except for your friends “crazy straw”)
Now check your work. Look at the details, for clearance, rubbing, lose nuts ect. Try moving the steering wheel back and forth to vefery that there is no rubbing.
If you are satisfied move on to priming the system.
17: Fill the PS pump with high quality PS fluid. I suggest you buy it in the gallon size if you drained the system completely in step 3.
18: Disable ignition system and crank engine for 5 full seconds. Check fluid level.
(repeat this step until the fluid level is consistent at each 5 second cranking session)
19 : Cap PS pump reservoir, engage ignition system and start engine. Run the engine briefly and check for fluid leaks (60 seconds or so). DO NOT PRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL. Top off fluid if necessary. If the Pump was noisy and there are tons of bubbles in the reserve tank when you look. Let the car sit for 15-20 minutes. Repeat this step until the fluid level is consistent
20: With the engine off. press the brake pedal fully a few times to purge any air from the Nitrogen reserve tank.
21: Start the engine and let it warm up. Rotate the steering wheel 5 full sweeps. Shut off engine. Check fluid level. Repeat until the fluid level is consistent.
22: Start the engine and apply moderate brake pressure slowly 5 to 6 times. Shut off engine and check fluid level. Repeat until the fluid level is consistent.
23: Stare engine and apply full pedal pressure 2 to 3 times to vefery system integrities.
24: lower the car (with the wheels on of course) and road test the vehicle.
Things to look for while testing: Pump squealing, leaving a fluid trail behind you as you drive, the brakes actually working, leaks, Power steering working while pressing the brake pedal.
25: let the vette sit overnight and check ALL connections and ALL fluid levels in the morning. Look for drips.
26: Test drive and enjoy your hard work.
“With hydrobooster, now I leave skid marks on the street instead of skid marks in my underwear”
Here are some finished Pictures of the installation.
Final opinions:
BAD things= The hose clamps were to small (minor). The installation directions could be written clearer, and more detailed for the “weekend” mechanic like myself. Include a picture diagram of the system (what goes where ect.). Include in the directions how to loosen the Steel braded High Pressure lines and rotate the 90 degree fittings.
GOOD things= Awesome product! I mean the brakes work great! While road testing the car I almost kissed the steering several times. Woo Hoo! Customer Service was phenomenal! Paul was truly helpful with any questions that I had during the installation (no matter how minor), and was genuinely concerned that I was happy with his product. Everything was of top quality. Very impressed.
I have contacted Paul the owner of http://www.hydroboost.com and shared with him the bad/good things I have listed here. And he plans on making some changes based on suggestions. It is debatable that the price is too high for the setup. IMO I disagree. I tried to price out buying the parts separately and for me Its worth the extra money not to have to deal with the hassle of finding the right hoses, fittings, and hoping that the junkyard booster will not fail. I personally cant go cheap when it comes to safety.
I hope this helps out the forum members or gives you the courage to tackle this your self.
Cheers
Chad
[Modified by 71'AirStrike, 9:32 AM 9/24/2002]
I purchased the hydratech braking system to solve my soft braking issue. My system is as follows: new vacuum and Master Cylinder from Ecklers (8 months old), Rebuild factory calipers w/ meticallic brake pads (8 months old), New plane jane disks from napa (8 months old), new rubber brake lines (8 months old).
The brakes would still work and lock up if the pedal went to the floorboard. Otherwise they felt mushy like my waist line.:cheers:
1: First things first. Jack up the car (I use 4 stands on the frame, and then use the jack itself on the front cross bar. This helps to support the weight of the motor from tweaking the frame). Be Safe, Be Smart.
2: Do a no-BS inspection of your braking and Power steering system. If either one is not up to par the Hydrobooster will not help. Look for leaks, drips, or something that is “just-not-right”. This is an excellent high performance braking system. If you have something wrong with the brakes to start, adding a hydrobooster could amplify the problem.
In my situation I gravity bled all brakes. I did this for 2 reasons, A: to make sure there are no air bubbles in the system. B: to use fresh clean fluid. In hind sight I should have used this opportunity to change over to a DOT 4 brake fluid as the directions suggested.
3: Drain the fluid out of the Power Steering (PS) pump by removing the high pressure line. It is the one located towards the bottom of the pump. Let drip for a while.
The prior owner had used ATF (Automatic Transmition Fluid nasty smelling red crap!) fluid for the PS system. ATF does not play nice with the Hydroboost, so I decided to completely flush the entire PS system and will use good quality PS fluid. One trick I did was to aim the hose removed from the PS pump to the drain pan. Then I moved the steering arm back and forth several times to purge the evil red fluid.
WARNING: move the steering arm very slowly! If you go to fast it will squirt out like Old Yeller. Trust me, ATF stings like hell when it gets into your eyes and it tastes worst than 3 day old taco bell food. :cry
4: Remove the Master Cylinder (MC) from the Vacuum Assist Unit (PoS). Carefully move the MC about 6 inches away from the PoS. Be mindful not to crimp or tweak the hard lines from the MC to the distribution point.
Use this time to inspect the PoS for any unusual fluid or crud collecting from the MC. Remember if the MC is not at 100%, you are begging for problems.
5: Remove the drivers seat. This is not a must. If you enjoy pain, S&M bondage, or spending money at a Chiropractors office by ALL means leave it in. Go ahead, I dare ya! :)
5a: Removing the Steering Column (SC). This is your judgment call if you want to pull it. It will make the job easier to get access to the 4 nuts holding the PoS in place. Crawl underneath the dash and determine if you can get the nuts you need to get to with the SC in place. Pulling the SC is about a 10 min job if you have done it before. If you haven’t done it before it will take about 30 minutes (22 of those minutes will be “Dammit what the hell blocking this *cursed thing?” *= insert your own 4 letter word here)
The procedure I list is for my car. Yours might be a little different (extra nut, bolt or spring thingy) be observant, and use this as a guide.
5b: Remove the 3 screws that hold the plastic plate underneath the SC.
5c: Remove the 12point bolt located on the Rag joint that secures the SC spine to the rag joint. I recommend moving the steering wheel so the 12point bolt is facing up and thereby easy-pezy to remove.
5d: Remove the 2 ½ in bolts that are located at the 9 and 5 o’clock position on the Cab side floorboard. Right where the SC goes through the floorboard.
5e: Remove the plate that is on the Firewall (engine) side of the SC. One of the bolts should come out to ease in the removal process. This is what the plate will look like when out.
5f: Disconnect the battery. Bummer there goes your radio station presets.
:sad:
5g: Unscrew the 2 support bolts. The SC will drop a few inches but that’s ok. Be gentle tho.
5h: Disconnect the 3 electrical plugs from the SC. One is thin, black, with 12 or so wires and, simple to get to (you can see it in above picture).
Look above the SC ad you can see the other 2 electrical plugs.
Writers Note: I added the dust to help earn NRCS points. If you want I sell Official Corvette Dust, Dirt, and Grime for $120 per ounce. Just IM me. :D
5i: Gently pull out the SC. Be care full not to snag wires and vacuum hoses. Do not worry the SC is not heavy. Take your time.
5j: Remove the 4 bolts that hold the upper support bracket for the SC.
When the SC is finally out DO NOT turn the ignition key, rotate the steering wheel, or move the steering components underneath the car. If you do the steering wheel will not be centered and will be difficult to get back in place. Then your friends and family will laugh at you.
5 SC installation: Installation is the reverse with 2 help full tips.1 Do not tighten the 4 upper SC support bracket or the 2 support bolts. Just get them started. Once the SC is back in place, align the SC so the Steering wheel is parallel to the driver. Once set then tighten up those puppy’s. 2 Grab a friend to help guide the spine end of the SC back into the rag joint while you hold the SC.
6: Remove the brake pedal rod and clevis pin.
6: OK here is where the “fun” begins. Remove the 4 bolts that hold on the PoS. In my car this is the worlds most PITA bolts to remove. It sucks, It sucks, It sucks. I hate It. :mad
After one hour of scraped knuckles and blood rushing to my head. I gave birth to a Vacuum Brake Booster. :bb
I’m going to take a break and eat some Ice chips.
7: Before installing the hydrobooster into the car. I suggest installing the High and Low pressure lines on the unit.
8: Transfer brake pedal rod clevis from vacuum assist unit to hydraulic assist unit. Make sure you have proper thread engagement. The book suggests 6 threads minimum. My install ended up being around 10 threads.
9: More fun! Install the Hydrobooster into the firewall. The brass can should be towards the top and drivers side of the car. The Pressure lines should be facing down. While installing the hydrobooster the brake pedal clevis should “interface” the brake pedal at the same time. It sucks, It sucks, It sucks. I hate It.
Ok the hard part is done. Its all down hill from here. Take a break.
Here is me dreaming of how great my breaks are going to work
The hydrobooster at this stage.
10: Lube up and install clevis pin/retaining clip into the brake pedal.
When routing the High and Low pressure lines be mindful of the A-arms, hot exhaust, electrical connections, and movement of the steering control valve.
11: Connect the shorter High pressure line to the bottom of the PS pump.
12: Connect the longer High pressure line to Power Steering Control Valve.
When all of the High pressure lines are connected you will end up with an extra High pressure line that came with your car originally. Don’t fret this is normal. Simply give the extra hose to a friend as a “crazy straw” to drink soda out of.
13: Connect all of the low pressure lines together with the brass “T” connector. Make sure the hose clamps are secure and tight.
14: Install the SC. The reverse of step 5.
15: Connect the MC to the Hydrobooster with the supplied nuts.
16: Adjust your brake pedal height to your liking. Pay attention to when the Brake light switch engages during the brake pedal travel. Don’t forget to adjust the Brake light engagement distance from the pedal and Tighten brake pedal rod to clevis jam nut firmly.
OK all the goodies should be back in the car (except for your friends “crazy straw”)
Now check your work. Look at the details, for clearance, rubbing, lose nuts ect. Try moving the steering wheel back and forth to vefery that there is no rubbing.
If you are satisfied move on to priming the system.
17: Fill the PS pump with high quality PS fluid. I suggest you buy it in the gallon size if you drained the system completely in step 3.
18: Disable ignition system and crank engine for 5 full seconds. Check fluid level.
(repeat this step until the fluid level is consistent at each 5 second cranking session)
19 : Cap PS pump reservoir, engage ignition system and start engine. Run the engine briefly and check for fluid leaks (60 seconds or so). DO NOT PRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL. Top off fluid if necessary. If the Pump was noisy and there are tons of bubbles in the reserve tank when you look. Let the car sit for 15-20 minutes. Repeat this step until the fluid level is consistent
20: With the engine off. press the brake pedal fully a few times to purge any air from the Nitrogen reserve tank.
21: Start the engine and let it warm up. Rotate the steering wheel 5 full sweeps. Shut off engine. Check fluid level. Repeat until the fluid level is consistent.
22: Start the engine and apply moderate brake pressure slowly 5 to 6 times. Shut off engine and check fluid level. Repeat until the fluid level is consistent.
23: Stare engine and apply full pedal pressure 2 to 3 times to vefery system integrities.
24: lower the car (with the wheels on of course) and road test the vehicle.
Things to look for while testing: Pump squealing, leaving a fluid trail behind you as you drive, the brakes actually working, leaks, Power steering working while pressing the brake pedal.
25: let the vette sit overnight and check ALL connections and ALL fluid levels in the morning. Look for drips.
26: Test drive and enjoy your hard work.
“With hydrobooster, now I leave skid marks on the street instead of skid marks in my underwear”
Here are some finished Pictures of the installation.
Final opinions:
BAD things= The hose clamps were to small (minor). The installation directions could be written clearer, and more detailed for the “weekend” mechanic like myself. Include a picture diagram of the system (what goes where ect.). Include in the directions how to loosen the Steel braded High Pressure lines and rotate the 90 degree fittings.
GOOD things= Awesome product! I mean the brakes work great! While road testing the car I almost kissed the steering several times. Woo Hoo! Customer Service was phenomenal! Paul was truly helpful with any questions that I had during the installation (no matter how minor), and was genuinely concerned that I was happy with his product. Everything was of top quality. Very impressed.
I have contacted Paul the owner of http://www.hydroboost.com and shared with him the bad/good things I have listed here. And he plans on making some changes based on suggestions. It is debatable that the price is too high for the setup. IMO I disagree. I tried to price out buying the parts separately and for me Its worth the extra money not to have to deal with the hassle of finding the right hoses, fittings, and hoping that the junkyard booster will not fail. I personally cant go cheap when it comes to safety.
I hope this helps out the forum members or gives you the courage to tackle this your self.
Cheers
Chad
[Modified by 71'AirStrike, 9:32 AM 9/24/2002]
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,273
Likes: 14
From: Austin TX
Re: "how-to-install" hydrobooster dial-up beware (71'AirStrike)
71AS,
Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
Looks like fun - think I'll try it.
Any idea what your 45mph stopping distance was before the hydroboost?
Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
Looks like fun - think I'll try it.
Any idea what your 45mph stopping distance was before the hydroboost?
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 4,166
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas NV
Re: "how-to-install" hydrobooster dial-up beware (flynhi)
Congrats on the bouncing baby booster!!! :eek: :eek: :eek:
Nice work, thanks for posting this info. Hope it goes into the FAQ archives.
Nice work, thanks for posting this info. Hope it goes into the FAQ archives.
C6 the C5 of tomorrow
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,665
Likes: 2
From: Twin Cities Minnesota
Re: "how-to-install" hydrobooster dial-up beware (The Dude)
Very good instructions!
Are you aware that you repeted steps 5 and 6 twice?
Are you aware that you repeted steps 5 and 6 twice?
( after step 5j )
:jester
[Modified by 427V8, 8:04 PM 9/23/2002]
Are you aware that you repeted steps 5 and 6 twice?
Are you aware that you repeted steps 5 and 6 twice?
( after step 5j )
:jester
[Modified by 427V8, 8:04 PM 9/23/2002]
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 2,581
Likes: 14
From: Tolar Texas
Re: "how-to-install" hydrobooster dial-up beware (71'AirStrike)
Excellent job on both the installation and the documentation.
I know it took a lot of time and we appreciate your sharing it with us.
:cheers:
I know it took a lot of time and we appreciate your sharing it with us.
:cheers:
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,477
Likes: 4
From: Florida 33460
Re: "how-to-install" hydrobooster dial-up beware (71'AirStrike)
One of the most detailed technical post ever! I had to read it even i never going to do it . Thanks!! :cheers:
ps keep on posting more!
ps keep on posting more!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,067
Likes: 2
From: near VIENNA, AUSTRIA
Re: "how-to-install" hydrobooster dial-up beware (Cajun75)
quote:
Great write-up!!!
Need to get this added to the C3 Tech section.
Thanks :cheers:
[Modified by MARKUS_P, 5:48 AM 9/24/2002]
Great write-up!!!
Need to get this added to the C3 Tech section.
Thanks :cheers:
[Modified by MARKUS_P, 5:48 AM 9/24/2002]
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Re: "how-to-install" hydrobooster dial-up beware (71'AirStrike)
You did a great job documenting it. Must have taken alot of your time. I have done this before but I installed my studs the opposite of yours. I took the 4 studs out of the plate for the hydraboost and installed them in the firewall facing out. The existing holes in the firewall are the right size for pressing these studs in. I just start them in the holes in the firewall from under the dash then use a large nut, washer and correct nut and pull them tightly into the firewall. It is alot easier then tring to start the nuts and tighten them under the dash. The hydraboost then slides over these 4 studs and the nuts go on from the outside. Future removals and installations are easy after this. You only have to remove the clevis pin in future.
I also love my system but why only 2 brake skid marks? I would leave down 4. I don't have anti lock brakes or a brake proportioning valve.
Anyway excellent job.
I also love my system but why only 2 brake skid marks? I would leave down 4. I don't have anti lock brakes or a brake proportioning valve.
Anyway excellent job.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 8,220
Likes: 208
Re: "how-to-install" hydrobooster dial-up beware (71'AirStrike)
Thanks for writing one of the best posts here ever! This information will go in good use by many members! :yesnod: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,218
Likes: 0
From: Glendale AZ
Re: "how-to-install" hydrobooster dial-up beware (71'AirStrike)
Thank you all for the congratulations. I hope it will help out a future/current member.
FlynHI= I dont know , but it was a heck of a lot longer.
427v8= I fixed the repeat (click)
I fixed the repeat (click)
I fixed the rep.....
Norval= Ya know I thought about reversing the studs. I though about it long and hard. But in the end I wanted a "clean look" for the installation, and figured it would be worth the birthing process. Actually there are 4 skid marks there, they overlap. I mainly did that to vefery that one brake is not "grabbing" harder than the other and pulling the car off to one direction during a panic stop. :cheers:
FlynHI= I dont know , but it was a heck of a lot longer.
427v8= I fixed the repeat (click)
I fixed the repeat (click)
I fixed the rep.....
Norval= Ya know I thought about reversing the studs. I though about it long and hard. But in the end I wanted a "clean look" for the installation, and figured it would be worth the birthing process. Actually there are 4 skid marks there, they overlap. I mainly did that to vefery that one brake is not "grabbing" harder than the other and pulling the car off to one direction during a panic stop. :cheers: