What will happen if you for example have a 2500 or 3000 stall speed cam, but have TH400 factory converter?

 

I would think it would be kinda slow off the line?

 

U can have idle issues with the motor needing to idle higher. And some loss of performance.

 

Thanks both.

As I understand it, if the converter has a stall @1000, then the converter has the best performance @1000, the same for the cam.

Is that correct?

 

In all fairness you have no understanding of how it works , google about it it is not to complex and it is easy to understand.

 

That is why I ask !
I know how a converter works, its the stall speed I don't understand.
I will google it.

 

http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/...d=78/prd78.htm

 

PERFECT
Thanks for your help.

 

A cam company givessel a generalized stall speed for a typical 350 if it a small block. So if you have a higher tq 383 to 427 ci. You could use a lower stall rating

The stall is what the motor rpm should jump to when you floor the gas pedal at slow speed. A tc can be built for an expected tq rating. If your motor makes more power the stall rpm will also increase

 

Any comment to this cam?
Drivetrain/car:
1969 Corvette Coupe.
3.70 rear, 255-60-15
TH2004R transmission (build for 650hp)
SBC Dart 427 550hp/500tq, AFR 220 competition, 1 3/4" headers, and 2½ exhaust
EZ-EFI 1.0

http://www.torqueconvertershop.com/5...aptor_lock.htm

Cam:

 

No recommendations from Comp? From my experience, the stock converter with that cam will cause you to "lurch" at idle; a 2400 stall will allow a smooth idle and better performance off the line and be very efficient at top end; a 3000 stall would allow an even faster E.T. but be slightly more noticeable (slippage) on the street....it can still be tight on top end if a good quality, however. Above that, for max performance, you would have to know the RPM where the engine makes it's peak torque (dyno info) and custom stall the converter to match it.

It comes down to your intended use for the car, and what you want.

 

They don't reply me, I've asked.
Its at street fighter car, no racing. Driving with my kids ec ec.

I will not be driving down the Germany autobahn a top speed

Here is what I get from Dyno 2003

 

The only thing I will add is if you are running the lock up for the torque converter there will be little to no effect when cruising on the highway with the higher stall. IMOP a good converter is a wise investment.

 

Thx c3 stroker/76strokervette.

I will go for 2400 (I will go for lock up)
Any comment to the quality of the converter? (is this a good converter)

 

That's a pretty mild can for a 427, especially if you have much for compression ratio. The 2400 should work well.

With those heads and cubes you're leaving a lot of HP on the table. It should be really torquey though.

Mike

 

Thx Mike
This is how I would like to have it, and I know, if I would like some more power, then I can change the cam. That why I bought the AFR competition and composite intake, to be ready if the future. But I don't think I will change, I have plenty of power (I think:- )

I can see they have 2300 or 2600 what to go for?
But is the converter a good quality, I don't want to have cheap chinese sh.. converter in my car !!
I want good US quality converter.

Thx for your help all
It's a bit hard getting info like this here, where I am......

/John

 

That company tc that you posted the 5X is a 12 inch heavy unit. Same effect as a heavy fly wheel. They claim 700 hp, but I don't believe that means during lockup 4th gear

When I first installed my 427Hotroded motor with a $1100 multiple lockup clutches 9.5 inch I promptly burned out the clutches. My transmission 700r4 was set up for no kicking down a gear so it could run wide open in 4th gear I was racing a friend on our local autovonia at high speed air resistance becomes so great that my multiple clutch tc blew out they just don't have enough clamping force even with the biggest pump

My advice to anyone with higher power is to forget about lockup and just buy an efficient 9.5 inch tc. You only see a few rpm change at hiway speed going in and out of lockup

My stall on my 427 was 3800. So when you floor the gas pedal it was instantly in the power. I've owned street cars with 4500 stall and they ran great. I wouldn't recommend anything under 3000 rpm and it has to be a 9.5 inch

 

Go here and have a look. http://www.converter.cc/ Talk to Dave, the owner. He can explain anything you want to know about which converter you would want. I'm somewhat willing to bet that he will suggest a 9.5", 3,500 SS TC, but I could be wrong. That TC is not too big for the street and will drive like stock until you stick your foot into the loud peddle.

I run a 9.5" 3,200 behind a 383 and love it. Motor rev's fast and power turns on quick. That cam spec is very close to Comp's HR280 cam which I have and will be going into my motor soon along with a head change, I run DART Pro1s now and like them, but new heads going on should wake it up a bit more and work great with my build. Good luck with your choice.

 

The stall speed of a converter is often misunderstood.

Take two table fans , point one at the other , now turn one on and the air flow will make the un-powered fan blades rotate.

Inside the t/c , the case and its fins are the powered fan (Impeller) and your Turbine is connected to the trans input shaft is the fan with no power.

As you increase rpm more fluid is directed to the turbine and that translates into rotations into the transmission.

( I AM BEING casual with terms to make it simple)

Now what is stall speed ?

The outer case of your T/C (impeller) as it throws fluid to the opposing blades (Turbine) it causes them to rotate and the car to move. The more you rotate the T/C the more fluid will push from the impeller to the turbine. No different then the two fans, as we increase fan speed the un-powered fan will also increase in RPM.

What is stall.

Simply put it is the rpm at which the impeller and the turbine rotate at a 1 to 1 ratio. ( Not 100% 1 to 1 that leads to what lock up clutches do) , BUT basically, Lock up clutches when applied lock the converter input and output rotations ensuring a 100% 1 to 1 rotation).

Stall speed is the number at which this 1 to 1 takes place . 1700 , 5500 whatever it was built to do. It does not mean you can not move until stall speed is reached all it means is that 1 to 1 ratio which allows full power to flow through you're drive line is not attained until the specified stall speed rpm.

Some guy's will tell you the car needs more RPM to move from a stop and in those cases you will see the overall diameter of that T/C is much smaller then the OEM size , this will also cause a lot more heat, Be aware Size matters, if you want a nice driver yet a high stall speed that only comes into play when you are asking for max power, Pay the money and have a 10" possible 9.5 but 10" should allow as close to oem driving because like a tire the smaller the diameter the more it needs to rotate to cover the same distance as a taller tire does.

These 9" or so converters WILL make it feel like you are slipping however what you are feeling is the effect of the smaller diameter. It takes more turns with a 9" then a 11" to cover the same distance.

Back to Stall .. lol sorry i ramble ..

So that all being said .. Stall speed like mine 3600 with a 10.5 converter with lock up , allows me to idle at a lower rpm it also allows me to come out of the hole like a mad man and because I went 10.5 my daily driving is as normal on hills and from a stop and at cruse as a lower stall would offer.

That comes at a price 750.00 , but it makes it so much more worth it words can not do it justice. ( Oem 4L80e converter is 13" and why I went 10.5)

Stall : Allows for a bigger cam because the loading of the motor at a 1 to 1 ratio is pushed up the rpm range taking the strain off the motor.

Stall: Allows the motor to REV much higher before the 1 to 1 occurs ensuring the engine power is applied at a rpm that allows the motor to pull at full power with out being dragged under its power band.

STALL: Also reduces RPM drop between shift points allowing the motor to stay in its power band through the entire pull or run at every shift point.

There is no best stall speed, It is the best for a specific Combination of parts from the motor back. Cam companies offer a suggestion and it usually is close enough but I suggest you stay closer to the top rpm suggested not the lower. Because as long as you pay attention to diameter the stall speed will only be noticed when you want it to be.

 

I've sent a mail to Dave, THANKS :- )
I've also send a mail regarding a vigilante.

http://www.converter.com/vigilante.htm