Decision time for 1980 Diff. Comments plz
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Decision time for 1980 Diff. Comments plz
Need to make a decision on what to do with the rear end. Thanks so much to everyone here who has posted very valuable info on the shortcomings 80-82 diffs.
I think I'm going to scatter mine if I use it with my powertrain: Bill Mitchell Hardcore 454 SBC backed by Richmond ROD 6 speed. 3:27 to 1 1st gear, 0.67 to 1 6th. My engine was dyno'd at 590HP, but will be detuned a bit with a lower rise intake and smaller carb, so maybe 500.
A mitigating factor is the fact that I won't be beating on the car, and will not have sticky tires. Probably standard issue BFG T/A's on the stock alum rims.
Thought about ditching the IRS altogether maybe (but really don't want to), seeing if the nice gentleman who makes the special steel carrier caps for my diff might be able to do up one for me, or maybe use an earlier 63-79 cast iron unit with my bat wing mount. I'm hoping to make a decision soon, as the body is off the frame, and the frame is stripped bare. Any welding/cutting I need to do before blasting/powder coating.
If anyone has a contact I could phone about this, that would be great. I'm in the Seattle area.
Thank you.
I think I'm going to scatter mine if I use it with my powertrain: Bill Mitchell Hardcore 454 SBC backed by Richmond ROD 6 speed. 3:27 to 1 1st gear, 0.67 to 1 6th. My engine was dyno'd at 590HP, but will be detuned a bit with a lower rise intake and smaller carb, so maybe 500.
A mitigating factor is the fact that I won't be beating on the car, and will not have sticky tires. Probably standard issue BFG T/A's on the stock alum rims.
Thought about ditching the IRS altogether maybe (but really don't want to), seeing if the nice gentleman who makes the special steel carrier caps for my diff might be able to do up one for me, or maybe use an earlier 63-79 cast iron unit with my bat wing mount. I'm hoping to make a decision soon, as the body is off the frame, and the frame is stripped bare. Any welding/cutting I need to do before blasting/powder coating.
If anyone has a contact I could phone about this, that would be great. I'm in the Seattle area.
Thank you.
#2
Burning Brakes
Tracdogg2 is the only person I know of that upgrades the dana 44 in the 80-82 corvette. Mike and I have discussed doing some upgrades to the batwing set up. He has already made a steel cap for the dana 44 and images can be found online. I know he wants to provide the 80-82 folks
with some options to keep their differentials intact. As soon as we get a solid plan in place things should happen fairly quickly.Mike will fill in all of the specific details. He is very busy now so please give him a little time to reply,he will get back to you. I will pm contact information.
with some options to keep their differentials intact. As soon as we get a solid plan in place things should happen fairly quickly.Mike will fill in all of the specific details. He is very busy now so please give him a little time to reply,he will get back to you. I will pm contact information.
#4
Melting Slicks
The way I see it You have the following options. Do nothing and see what happens. Build a Stronger C3 Dana 44 set up. Do an Iron Pumpkin conversion. Install something completely different.
I have acquired a lot of these parts and have sent You a PM and yes I also live in the Seattle area. However I am in Alaska and won't be home for a month.
One option You probably have not thought of is a C4 Dana 44 Conversion. When I get home I would be glad to show You how I did mine.
If Your car was an Auto then You probably have the weaker 1330 1/2 shafts. By the time You convert it to 1350's buying an Iron rear that has the 1350's it in the first place is probably the better option.
It all depends on what You intend to use the car for when its done.
I have acquired a lot of these parts and have sent You a PM and yes I also live in the Seattle area. However I am in Alaska and won't be home for a month.
One option You probably have not thought of is a C4 Dana 44 Conversion. When I get home I would be glad to show You how I did mine.
If Your car was an Auto then You probably have the weaker 1330 1/2 shafts. By the time You convert it to 1350's buying an Iron rear that has the 1350's it in the first place is probably the better option.
It all depends on what You intend to use the car for when its done.
#6
Thread bump. so i have just learned i have a Dana 44 and being auto the weak half shafts. I plan in the future to get a LS1 in there, not going big HP, just what ever a LS1 with Aluminium heads gives you with mild cam..
Can the steel caps be purchased and just replaced by themselves for a "little" insurance. how big of a job is this.
And where can i get the side yolk gaskets from, i have the main seal but dont want to buy a complete rebuild kit just for the sides..
Lastly what is needed to bolt up a 79 diff, with half shafts, tie rod ends? is everything else plug and play or does the drive shift need to be shortened ?
Any ideas on best gear ration to go with a LS1 and what auto box to bolt to it?
Thanks for the help
Can the steel caps be purchased and just replaced by themselves for a "little" insurance. how big of a job is this.
And where can i get the side yolk gaskets from, i have the main seal but dont want to buy a complete rebuild kit just for the sides..
Lastly what is needed to bolt up a 79 diff, with half shafts, tie rod ends? is everything else plug and play or does the drive shift need to be shortened ?
Any ideas on best gear ration to go with a LS1 and what auto box to bolt to it?
Thanks for the help
#7
Thread bump. so i have just learned i have a Dana 44 and being auto the weak half shafts. I plan in the future to get a LS1 in there, not going big HP, just what ever a LS1 with Aluminium heads gives you with mild cam..
Can the steel caps be purchased and just replaced by themselves for a "little" insurance. how big of a job is this.
And where can i get the side yolk gaskets from, i have the main seal but dont want to buy a complete rebuild kit just for the sides..
Lastly what is needed to bolt up a 79 diff, with half shafts, tie rod ends? is everything else plug and play or does the drive shift need to be shortened ?
Any ideas on best gear ration to go with a LS1 and what auto box to bolt to it?
Thanks for the help
Can the steel caps be purchased and just replaced by themselves for a "little" insurance. how big of a job is this.
And where can i get the side yolk gaskets from, i have the main seal but dont want to buy a complete rebuild kit just for the sides..
Lastly what is needed to bolt up a 79 diff, with half shafts, tie rod ends? is everything else plug and play or does the drive shift need to be shortened ?
Any ideas on best gear ration to go with a LS1 and what auto box to bolt to it?
Thanks for the help
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