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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 09:48 AM
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Default New US gear "lightning" gear set

I just thought I would post a picture of my new gear set I received from US gear. This is from there new "Lightning Series" line. All polished up and ready to take a beating. I don't know yet if it is worth the added cost, but it sure does look pretty.


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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 09:52 AM
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Cool. Gears are awesome.
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 10:08 AM
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Looks nice. How much hp you plan on putting through that ?
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Pop Chevy
Looks nice. How much hp you plan on putting through that ?
I'm pushing a little over 600rwhp.
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 12:02 PM
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I have 650hp... if you have over 600hp this will blow... the polishing in called REM coating and what it does is take off all the starting places for a rip/break to start... thank of a piece of paper, if you go to rip it, the rip will stat where there is already a small rip or split... get rid of that and to start the break takes more power...
But you still have a week carrier and axels and so forth... If you want your rear end to hold up, get a hold of Mike (track dog) and have hime build it for you.. its called a super 10,

ALL the parts in the rear need to be REM coated AND Cyro'ed and heavier 12 bolt parts put in like the stub axels...

A good and correct rear end that will hold over 600hp will cost about $4K if you just throw that ring and pinion in you will be doing it again soon...

over 600hp? what have you done to reach this? have you dyno'ed you car?

Last edited by pauldana; Mar 17, 2017 at 12:02 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 12:20 PM
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A thing of beauty.... should have bought two sets....one for the coffee table, one for the Vette.
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by pauldana
I have 650hp... if you have over 600hp this will blow... the polishing in called REM coating and what it does is take off all the starting places for a rip/break to start... thank of a piece of paper, if you go to rip it, the rip will stat where there is already a small rip or split... get rid of that and to start the break takes more power...
But you still have a week carrier and axels and so forth... If you want your rear end to hold up, get a hold of Mike (track dog) and have hime build it for you.. its called a super 10,

ALL the parts in the rear need to be REM coated AND Cyro'ed and heavier 12 bolt parts put in like the stub axels...

A good and correct rear end that will hold over 600hp will cost about $4K if you just throw that ring and pinion in you will be doing it again soon...

over 600hp? what have you done to reach this? have you dyno'ed you car?
Here is a little run down on what I have:

The rear is getting the Toms 30 spline HD inner axles and spiders, Steel cap, solid crush sleeve (shimmed), clutch packs, bearings and the Gear set shown. Pretty much all the same parts that are in the "Super 10" that you mentioned. The only difference is that I am not having Mike (Track Dog) do the work. I've got a little experience building rear differentials, so I am doing it myself.
I have already installed the HD 31 spline outer axle shaft kits. I also installed new 3 1/2" aluminum drive shafts (front and outers) that are rated for up to 1200hp.
I removed the Th350 that was in the car originally and upgraded to a Tremec TKO-600 transmission, flywheel, clutch kit, etc. from Kiesler.
For the engine, I pulled out the old 350 and built a SBC 400 with all the go fast goodies in it and added a old school Holley 250 supercharger with dual carbs built for me by Nickerson Performance in Bristol PA.
I am running fairly low boost (8 lbs) since this is mainly a street car that I drive often and can be driven on 93 octane in any weather conditions that you can think of without retarding timing to get it to run without detonating itself to death.
I did not dyno the engine before I installed it in the car, so I don't have any numbers on that by itself. However, I did dyno the car at Nickerson Performance on their Mustang dyno when I completed assembling the car.

Here is a screenshot of one of the dyno runs. This was not the final run but it’s one that I have on my computer. The graph doesn't show your typical HP and torque graphs because I was focusing more on air/fuel ratio so not to burn up all my hard work. You can see the HP/Torque #'s on the lower part of the screen. I was never big on chasing numbers but rather building a dead reliable car.






Link to the car on the dyno.

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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 06:17 PM
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Hey Joe, great dyno numbers and nice video. I can loan you my drag radials some time if you really want to get an ET to match your 124 mph trap speed.
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 06:39 PM
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I guess he covered the details pretty well,Nice job!
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 11:21 PM
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Just received My Richmond gears today and started to take my core case apart.I wont build the side gears but will the caps, axles and any other parts needed.
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Old Mar 18, 2017 | 01:18 AM
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Nice looking set of gears.
Hard to tell as I could not count the pinion but looks to be 4.10....correct?
Did you get the gears direct from US that way? or did you buy through Tom's?
I have a set of their 4.10 gears sitting at my friend Gary Ramadei's place waiting to go into my differential with the original Super 10 setup.
Looking at May install.

Keep us updated with pics of completed rear.

Thanks
Dennis (Bman)
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Old Mar 18, 2017 | 04:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 76Rat
Here is a little run down on what I have:

The rear is getting the Toms 30 spline HD inner axles and spiders, Steel cap, solid crush sleeve (shimmed), clutch packs, bearings and the Gear set shown. Pretty much all the same parts that are in the "Super 10" that you mentioned. The only difference is that I am not having Mike (Track Dog) do the work. I've got a little experience building rear differentials, so I am doing it myself.
I have already installed the HD 31 spline outer axle shaft kits. I also installed new 3 1/2" aluminum drive shafts (front and outers) that are rated for up to 1200hp.
I removed the Th350 that was in the car originally and upgraded to a Tremec TKO-600 transmission, flywheel, clutch kit, etc. from Kiesler.
For the engine, I pulled out the old 350 and built a SBC 400 with all the go fast goodies in it and added a old school Holley 250 supercharger with dual carbs built for me by Nickerson Performance in Bristol PA.
I am running fairly low boost (8 lbs) since this is mainly a street car that I drive often and can be driven on 93 octane in any weather conditions that you can think of without retarding timing to get it to run without detonating itself to death.
I did not dyno the engine before I installed it in the car, so I don't have any numbers on that by itself. However, I did dyno the car at Nickerson Performance on their Mustang dyno when I completed assembling the car.

Here is a screenshot of one of the dyno runs. This was not the final run but it’s one that I have on my computer. The graph doesn't show your typical HP and torque graphs because I was focusing more on air/fuel ratio so not to burn up all my hard work. You can see the HP/Torque #'s on the lower part of the screen. I was never big on chasing numbers but rather building a dead reliable car.






Link to the car on the dyno.

https://youtu.be/Z2zWG11lxb0

Wow!!!! Super fantastic!!!! Supercharged👍😃:-)

I would suggest you get everything cyroed as well.


You got my dyno numbers beat that's for sure but I'm normally aspirated not supercharged :-)
But not by a lot and I think my torque is right about there just a slight bit less

Last edited by pauldana; Mar 18, 2017 at 12:44 PM.
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Old Mar 18, 2017 | 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by pauldana
Wow!!!! Super fantastic!!!! Supercharged👍😃:-)

I would suggest you get everything cyroed as well.
The cryo thing seems to pop up every few years however with are
experience manufacturing gears its more hype then any thing.
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Old Mar 18, 2017 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by super charged
The cryo thing seems to pop up every few years however with are
experience manufacturing gears its more hype then any thing.
I disagree with that for several reasons, but here are two of them....we are very strong in the four-wheel-drive community also all the guys with jeeps have been doing them and there is a noticeable difference in breakage, we have raced the Baja 500 and 1000 .....Second, when Mike did my rear end and he had to lathe the parts for proper match, he said it was the hardest steel he had ever had to mill and he went through three bits whereas with others he doesn't even go through one bit... and he made a direct comment on to how much harder this steel was.

There's a project ( Government ) being worked on that I can't tell you about but they needed to have steel that was much lighter but still as strong we ran it through the cyro process for them them and they ran test on it they are now using only cryo- steel


Go do a web search there's more and more articles written on it it works it's a fact

Last edited by pauldana; Mar 18, 2017 at 12:36 PM.
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Old Mar 18, 2017 | 12:30 PM
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I want to make a note about Mike track dog there's a difference in assembling a rear end and building a rear end I can assemble a rear end and we have assembled many rear ends in our shop ...but Mike bilds rear ends where he uses a lath and mill and uses parts that generally do not fit but are stronger and better ....it's different

Last edited by pauldana; Mar 18, 2017 at 12:32 PM.
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Old Mar 18, 2017 | 12:39 PM
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Also note to the OP you need to have the rest of the parts in the rear end REM coated as well obviously they're doing that on the ring in pinon for a reason the same reason follows through for the carrier the spider gears and everything else
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Old Mar 18, 2017 | 02:41 PM
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Cryo does more for surface tension just like polishing, In the apps that are parts are used in when a part gives up its over that how close to the line the parts run.We build or I should say MFG transmissions, gear boxes all the components Diff carriers all billet
for tractor and truck pulling along with clutches its along list. I make my own parts because I can that's the fun part of this.
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Old Mar 18, 2017 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by BKbroiler
Hey Joe, great dyno numbers and nice video. I can loan you my drag radials some time if you really want to get an ET to match your 124 mph trap speed.
Thanks for the offer Bruce. I did have drag radials (Toyo 345/40R17)the last time I saw you. I just didn't have a line lock installed so I couldn't heat up the tires enough to get them to hook. That's been taken care of.
You mean to tell me that you didn't like the 1.99 second 60ft times that I was running?
The 124 trap speed was when I missed third gear so hopefully it will be higher next time out. I also need to put this thing on a diet. You can see in the dyno screen shot, it weighs in at 3875 without me in it. (Fat Bastard!)

bmans vette
Nice looking set of gears.
Hard to tell as I could not count the pinion but looks to be 4.10....correct?
Did you get the gears direct from US that way? or did you buy through Tom's?
I ended up getting the 3.73's They came directly from US Gear but I ordered the through Summit since they were one of the few places that actually listed them for sale. I talked to US Gear before I made the purchase and they told me that the REM processing and polishing were done per order. They don't keep them in stock like that. It took about a week and a half before it was shipped.

pauldana
You got my dyno numbers beat that's for sure but I'm normally aspirated not supercharged :-)
But not by a lot and I think my torque is right about there just a slight bit less
You have a real nice engine in your car. I remember reading about your build. You are squeezing a lot out of that engine.

pauldana
I want to make a note about Mike track dog there's a difference in assembling a rear end and building a rear end I can assemble a rear end and we have assembled many rear ends in our shop ...but Mike bilds rear ends where he uses a lath and mill and uses parts that generally do not fit but are stronger and better ....it's different
That's why Mike is the man! If I didn't know what I was doing, he would be the first person I would call, without a doubt
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