Did an archives search on this, and found threads which said you can use a mini-starter from a 94-98 chevy truck with 5.7 on smallblocks, and a thread where Zwede says he used one on his 454. My question is, anybody know if one will fit on a '69 427?

JB

 

ttt

Anyone?

JB

 

JB, When Zwede first did his switch I checked around to find if I could get one. I checked wrecking yards and had no luck, I checked parts stores and the price was prohibitive Autozone and O'Rielly had a rebuilt for $180 + $60 core charge. Being afraid that I couldn't get my core charge back if I returned an old full size starter I never tried to do it.
I just checked and Parts America/Advanced Auto has a rebuilt AC/Delco unit for $140 + $55 core charge. This starter has the offset bolt pattern for the 168 tooth flywheel ring gear. I really didn't follow up on this because I have seen hi-performance GM gear reduction starters for around $200.00 from http://www.gmpartsdirect.com
One thing you'll have to deal with if you are trying to use one of these starters is that the solenoid does not have the extra terminal to provide 12 volts directly to the coil during starting. There are ways around this problem, but they require adding a relay that is tied into a direct battery lead so that the coil gets 12 volts when the key is turned to start.
This isn't a problem with HEI cars, but older points type or even Pertronix or Mallory Unilite units require straight battery voltage to the coil during starting.
I bought a rebuilt starter last year and although the car had been starting perfectly (before the starter failed) after replacing the starter the new starter would not start the car. I spun it over just great, but I could not get enough power from the coil to fire the plugs.
I took the starter off and took the solenoid apart, the section of the solenoid that put power to the "S" terminal, was not making contact. After taking the mechanical contact part from my old starter (it wasn't worn at all) and putting them in the "new" solenoid, the car started up right away.
So that "S" terminal is necessary for a points type ignition.
Good Luck!

 

Thanks, Steve. I definitly want to put the mini-starter in, even if I have to fork over the $200 for the GM--when the car's hot, it turns over hard enough I worry about getting it started again & I like the idea of having a powerful enough starter not to have to worry about it.

What do you think of the idea of using a remotely mounted Ford solinoid? Wouldn't that do the trick for the 12V to the coil?

JB

 

A remote solenoid will probably work just fine, and probably do away with the heat soak problem. The only caveat that I have is that it has been a while since I looked at the starting circuit wiring diagram, and I don't remember exactly how things are hooked up. One thing I do remember is there is a circuit that is only active when the key is in the crank/Start position. When the solenoid activates the Bendix it mechanically closes a set of contacts inside the solenoid housing and routes straight 12 V to the coil, as soon as the key is released and the Bendix disengages the contacts open and the coil is operating off the lower voltage provided by the resistor wire circuit.
So even if the solenoid was moved to the firewall a similar setup would have to exist (provided by a relay) to route full 12 volts to the coil.
Last year I provided Pedro with a wiring diagram for a relay to do the job when he replaced his starter with a hi-torque mini. Let me dig around and see if I can find the jpg and I'll send it to you.


[Modified by Smokehouse69, 9:21 PM 9/26/2002]

 

Here's what I got:



http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=18463

It can be rotated too by removing 2 bolts, note the holes in the front. Very high quality so far.

 

Fevre--re smokehouse's comments, how'd you hook that puppy up? And did you have any trouble with the mounting bolts? I read in an old thread that there could be a problem with the truck starters because they were metrically threaded.

JB

 

I have one of those GM truck starters on my Vette, and it works great. No problems with the bolts, except that I had to get shorter ones (from the Chevy dealer). The terminals are metric, though.

Don't know if Steve sent ya the diagram he mentioned above, but just in case, here it is:
http://home.earthlink.net/~pplt/corv...rter_relay.jpg

-Pedro