Not trying to stir up any hostility here. (seems to be a sore subject), but my engine is ready for its 500 change. What kind of oil do you recomend. I do not have any understanding of oil. Be it basic, weights 10w30 vs. XXX or this whole new formulation stuff. What is what, and what should i put in. What about synthetic? Open to all opinions!


[Modified by DollaGreen, 7:20 PM 9/25/2002]

 

I use a high quality 10w 30 old fashioned oil. I used Castrol for years. I personally don't believe in synthetic. I change my oil often and filter with every change. As to real specifics in quality and addiives, I am in the dark.

 

I have used Castrol for many years. No problems. Given your area of North America I would shift down to a 10W-30 or even a 5W-30 as the cold weather approaches. The pic is my summer oil.

 

Corvette: Castrol GTX 10W-40 (old seals do not like synthetics)
Daily Drivers: Royal Purple Synthetic

 

I use 10W30 in the fall/spring and change to 10W40 for the summer

 

Have any of you used the castrol for cars with over 70'000 miles? Saw it last nite and I am considering using it. My vette has 92k on it. :chevy

 

Castrol 10w 30 all year round!

 

The ONLY oil related problem I have EVER had was a galled (internally) valve lifter on a corvette that had only been serviced meticulously with Mobil I synthetic oil. Sure the engine was spotless inside after 90k but the lifter stuck internally.......I have a mini van with 178K that has never need any engine work and only used Valvoline. :crazy:

 

except i use 20-50

 

I use Mobil 1 in everything. Either 5w30 or 10w30.

It is even in the lawnmower. :D

tom...

 

I have been turnig wrenches since the early 60's, and have been building high performance engines for about that time. I have just recently switched to Mobil 1 15/50 wt. I used to use Castroil 20/50 in all my high performance engines. Research has shown that mineral oils break down and loose their additives and ability to hold vescosity over time. I have always changed oil and filter at 3,000 miles. Since I have change to synthetics I have extended the changes to 6,000 miles and chang the filter every 3,000 miles and add one quart.

I am running a stroked 350 bored .40 over = 359 cu. crane roller cam, and crowler roller rockers, Moroso 7 quart pan. Twisted wedge T/F ported and polished heads, with Edelbrock port EFI, Hooker super comp headers and a Richmond 5 speed in my 81 vette.

My oil temp is running about 10 degrees cooler now and the oil stays cleaner. I have taken the oil filter relief valve out and put a plug in it so all the oil is filtered. With the relief valve in oil is only filtered at an idle or very low rpms. it is very important to change the filter often to avoid it plugging up be cause there is no relief valve to pypass the plugged filter. I use a high performance oil filter from GM that filters to 10 micro. You can find it in the GM performace cataloge. The cost of the oil and a very good filter is a little more but if you do the changes yourself it will not cost you any more than taking it to the corner grease monkey shop.

Synthetics do not break down and under pressure it will not squeeze out from bearings or gear mesh.

All new C5 Corvettes come from the Plant with Mobil 1 5/30 wt. If the oil was not any good do you think GM would install it and recomend it in their high dollar performance car.

My wife just bought an 03 vehicle and when it reached the first service at 3,000 miles I change it over to Mobil 1 5/30 wt. I have become believer in synthetic oils. Hope this help you in your decision making process.

Larry :chevy

 

Seems engines have been able to go 200,000+ miles on old dino, which is probably better now than ever before, so not sure about synthetic as far a cost/benefit. Syn is probably better but how much? Is it better like having a million $'s and then getting one single $ more or is it like having a million $'s and getting another million $'s?

I use mobile 10/30.

 

Castrol 10-40 year round. :smash:

 

People tend to get obsessive about their oils...

As long as you are not racing, use a good quality API SL-rated oil and a good filter (that's another story), and change it religiously, practically any brand will be fine.

Just stay away from the non-detergent SA-rated oils they sell in convenience stores! :nono: