Installing an electric fuel pump
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Installing an electric fuel pump
Hello -
I need to Install an electric fuel pump, I purchased a nice Carter 6 - 8 psi 72 gph unit.
I have a bone stock 1978 Silver Anniversary L-48 Federal car, TH-350 3:55 gears that needs to be smogged next month in California, argh.
It is just a driver, broken glass T-Top, A/C removed cause it does not work and is not needed (I live in San Diego near the coast) nothing fancy.
Questions / Issues
1. Best place to install
2. I think I need to keep the mechanical unit intact cause I need a smog in May then I can block it off.
3. Thinking of putting a switch in the compartment behind the passenger seat.
4. I suspect I have to drop the tank again
5. I need a good place to mount it
So you may asking yourself, why does this crazy guy in San Diego need an electronic fuel pump?
Okay here goes..
At first the car would stumble at WOT, the issue became worse and worse over the course of a year or two and now will hardly drive at all.
Silly Stuff I did in vain to fix it..
The carb was very suspect so I sent it to Lars and had it rebuilt, afterwards it drove and idled much better but at WOT it stumbled.
The issue got worse and worse
I noticed it did not seem to get enough gas, so I got a new fuel pump and purchased the funky 'S' shaped hose, there was an obvious kink in the rubber hose.
The issue persisted.
I dropped the tank, replaced the hoses and replaced the sock, by the way the tank looked pretty clean.
The issue persisted.
I could easily blow air to make sure the lines were not plugged
It turns out to be the fuel pump eccentric, the push rod hardly moves, the eccentric looks worn. I don't have the time (smog due in a couple weeks) and energy right now to pull the timing cover off and see exactly what is wrong.
I think I am not the only C-3 only to cry 'why me' and how did the eccentric go rogue?
I need to Install an electric fuel pump, I purchased a nice Carter 6 - 8 psi 72 gph unit.
I have a bone stock 1978 Silver Anniversary L-48 Federal car, TH-350 3:55 gears that needs to be smogged next month in California, argh.
It is just a driver, broken glass T-Top, A/C removed cause it does not work and is not needed (I live in San Diego near the coast) nothing fancy.
Questions / Issues
1. Best place to install
2. I think I need to keep the mechanical unit intact cause I need a smog in May then I can block it off.
3. Thinking of putting a switch in the compartment behind the passenger seat.
4. I suspect I have to drop the tank again
5. I need a good place to mount it
So you may asking yourself, why does this crazy guy in San Diego need an electronic fuel pump?
Okay here goes..
At first the car would stumble at WOT, the issue became worse and worse over the course of a year or two and now will hardly drive at all.
Silly Stuff I did in vain to fix it..
The carb was very suspect so I sent it to Lars and had it rebuilt, afterwards it drove and idled much better but at WOT it stumbled.
The issue got worse and worse
I noticed it did not seem to get enough gas, so I got a new fuel pump and purchased the funky 'S' shaped hose, there was an obvious kink in the rubber hose.
The issue persisted.
I dropped the tank, replaced the hoses and replaced the sock, by the way the tank looked pretty clean.
The issue persisted.
I could easily blow air to make sure the lines were not plugged
It turns out to be the fuel pump eccentric, the push rod hardly moves, the eccentric looks worn. I don't have the time (smog due in a couple weeks) and energy right now to pull the timing cover off and see exactly what is wrong.
I think I am not the only C-3 only to cry 'why me' and how did the eccentric go rogue?
#2
That lobe is on the cam shaft. Your whole cam may be dying as well.
#3
BTW, Calif. smog will not care about what pump you use. Just original smog equipment and sniffer test.
#4
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
That would not be good, I just need to get this car running then smogged then move it to the garage. Then I can swap a cam if necessary down the road.
I have been concerned about metal bits so I will need to change the oil too.
I have been concerned about metal bits so I will need to change the oil too.
#5
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
#6
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Snoopysvet (04-04-2017)
#7
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Your cam may well look like this
In which case the valve lobes may be OK. I couldn't believe the car would even run when it got down this close to completely round. That's a lot of metal in the motor but no harm was done when I replaced the cam. I assume the oil filter caught most everything.
I attribute this to that lobe not being hardened and my switching to Mobil One which did not contain an adequate amount of ZDDP. Mine was a roller cam so that may have helped.
It really shouldn't happen again if you install a new cam and use the proper oil. There are brass tipped pushrods available as well as some sort of poly material. My memory is hazy on the latter but no problems after I put the brass tipped rod in with my new cam.
And yes an electric fuel pump was a temporary workaround for me. I installed a Holley red top (I think) somewhere up front. Electric pumps pump better than they suck so it is better to mount near the tank but the car did run. Eventually I put a different motor and an electric near the back. I still have the pump if you want to buy it (cheap, maybe just postage and $1 for my time).
Here's my ultimate solution
[/URL]
In which case the valve lobes may be OK. I couldn't believe the car would even run when it got down this close to completely round. That's a lot of metal in the motor but no harm was done when I replaced the cam. I assume the oil filter caught most everything.
I attribute this to that lobe not being hardened and my switching to Mobil One which did not contain an adequate amount of ZDDP. Mine was a roller cam so that may have helped.
It really shouldn't happen again if you install a new cam and use the proper oil. There are brass tipped pushrods available as well as some sort of poly material. My memory is hazy on the latter but no problems after I put the brass tipped rod in with my new cam.
And yes an electric fuel pump was a temporary workaround for me. I installed a Holley red top (I think) somewhere up front. Electric pumps pump better than they suck so it is better to mount near the tank but the car did run. Eventually I put a different motor and an electric near the back. I still have the pump if you want to buy it (cheap, maybe just postage and $1 for my time).
Here's my ultimate solution
[/URL]
Last edited by ignatz; 04-04-2017 at 06:55 PM. Reason: pump
#9
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Location: los altos hills california
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In your case, what? You haven't described the particulars, stock cam or aftermarket, what type of oil, steel pushrod or other. You did a nice job getting to the bottom of things, I remember a lot of WTF's as I was getting there.
I don't think pulling the timing cover provides any visibility to the eccentric. I think all you see is the end of the cam. But if the pushrod isn't moving that pretty much seals the diagnosis.
#12
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Okay I got it
My new plans...
1. Put in fuel pump to get the car smogged, must be done asap
2. After smog - change cam, lifters, water pump and timing chain
I just don't think I can get the cam swapped in the next two weeks when the smog is due.
My new plans...
1. Put in fuel pump to get the car smogged, must be done asap
2. After smog - change cam, lifters, water pump and timing chain
I just don't think I can get the cam swapped in the next two weeks when the smog is due.
#14
Le Mans Master
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...tric&FORM=IGRE I am not sure that it is your problem.It would have to be worn a lot to cause a no pump .http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...=RESTAB&ajf=70
Last edited by terry82; 04-05-2017 at 03:28 PM.
#15
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http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...tric&FORM=IGRE I am not sure that it is your problem.It would have to be worn a lot to cause a no pump .http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...=RESTAB&ajf=70
Look at the picture of the Chevy cam. The fuel pump lobe is just one more solid cam lobe. Of course it is important to get to root cause. No discussion as yet as to possibles but this is not a common problem. In my case I had a clean relatively newly rebuilt motor AND Mobil One which I believe was the problem. My understanding is that Mobil One limits the additives as they can corrupt the catalytic convertors of today. You want lubricants that were appropriate from the time the engine was built. Today's may be better but maybe not. I found out the hard way.
#16
Drifting
fuel pump
fuel pump on lower radiator support.
You might also want to mount the fp on the front side of the radiator support. This is the lowest point on the car, allows gas to flow to the intake on the fp by gravity and is away from the hot exhaust system on the rear of the car. Requires drilling two holes for the gas lines and installing rubber grommets.
#17
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You might also want to mount the fp on the front side of the radiator support. This is the lowest point on the car, allows gas to flow to the intake on the fp by gravity and is away from the hot exhaust system on the rear of the car. Requires drilling two holes for the gas lines and installing rubber grommets.
It's just a temporary anyway. I mounted my temporary on the inner fender well near the mechanical pump.Somewhat fail safe in an accident.
Just an editorial comment, the beauty of the mechanical pump is if the motor stops, the flow of fuel stops. In an accident, that is a fail safe. I added an oil pressure switch to the power to my pump to achieve somewhat the same effect.
Last edited by ignatz; 04-05-2017 at 07:37 PM.
#20
Le Mans Master