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I was last on the forum with a Corvette back in 2004!
I just picked up an 81 coupe Tuesday night, and drove it a round a bit yesterday (and today). It's an awesome car. It does have a few issues, though. I thought I would list them out and get some opinions instead of making a thread for each one.
The car has just under 87k miles on it.
First off, the previous owner replaced the carb and distributor with non-computer versions. It runs great, though the choke needs some help. The problem is, the choke light on my dash is always on. The wire is connected to the choke, so I am not sure what else to do. Is it because it doesn't have the original carb? Do I need to remove the bulb from the dash or is there a better way?
Also, as is common, my steering is very loose. I thought I would adjust the lash, based on numerous other threads. I loosened the locking nut what I thought was a goodly amount, but the adjustment screw wouldn't budge. It would loosen just a hair, but not tighten. Then my wife wanted to go for a ride, so I snugged down the locking nut and went. Did I just not back off the locking nut enough to adjust it, or is something else going on? It looks like I have some threads still showing on the adjuster. The rag gear looks like it is brand new, btw.
The center gauges appear to work, even the clock, except for the temperature gauge. It just sits there with the needle near 200 like the pictures online for replacements. The wire is attached to the sending unit, but looks pretty rusty. Maybe wire brush it clean it off, or is something dead?
My cigar lighter is non-functional, but my courtesy lights and dashboard clock work. Any ideas before I start taking the console apart?
Ok, lastly, I think; my speedometer is very bouncy under 20 mph, and does not read the correct speed when I am moving. I read 32 when going 35, but reads close to 45 when going 45, and then only read 60 when going 65. Do I need a new cable, maybe?
Thanks, Antz81. I'll probably do some checking tonight.
As far as the color goes, it's dark green. Saddle or Tan interior, whatever you want to call it. I have more pics, but will post just a couple. I don't want to flood the thread!
I have changed over a 1981 vette to a regular carb and distributer and the choke lite did not come on .I would check to see if computer is still connected.on my 82 I just changed the power steering control valve .that was were all the play in the steering was.i would replace the coolant sensor .what distributer do you have ?if its the factory one then you have no advance.
Great looking car, I like the color combo. I am your neighbor up here in north Dayton.
Take your time old cars take a while to sort out, speedo could be a cable.
To check raise or lift the car safely remove transmission end of cable use a drill to spin the cable watch the speedo if it improves it is not the cable.
Good luck
The center gauges appear to work, even the clock, except for the temperature gauge. It just sits there with the needle near 200 like the pictures online for replacements. The wire is attached to the sending unit, but looks pretty rusty. Maybe wire brush it clean it off, or is something dead?
DEFINITELY wire brush the sensor contact and clean the terminal in the connector (look up Packard 56 connectors) if you don't know how to remove the terminals. Before ordering a new gauge check the wire for continuity between the sensor and the connector at the gauge pack. Also carefully examine the plastic printed circuit in the gauge pack as they tend to delaminate over time.
My cigar lighter is non-functional, but my courtesy lights and dashboard clock work. Any ideas before I start taking the console apart?
All are on the same circuit. If my '79 is any measure the cigar lighter is often not working because one or more of the wires to it has been cut/ripped apart by someone who didn't know how to remove the lighter body from the bezel. It's in two parts and unscrews.
Ok, lastly, I think; my speedometer is very bouncy under 20 mph, and does not read the correct speed when I am moving. I read 32 when going 35, but reads close to 45 when going 45, and then only read 60 when going 65. Do I need a new cable, maybe?
Before replacing the cable(s) lubricate them with spray graphite. If you have cruise control the speedo cable is in two pieces that meet the cruise control transducer near the brake booster. The lower (longer) cable is likely the one most in need of lube. Disconnect at both ends and spray in the lubricant at the top until the fluid that carries the graphite leaks out the bottom. Whatever you do, DO NOT use grease or similar on the upper cable as it will be forced into the speedo and ruin it.
Last edited by SwampeastMike; 04-20-2017 at 05:08 PM.
Reason: corrected formatting
The previous owner said he got the carb and distributor from a 79 vette.
It was just pouring outside. I might have to wait a bit to go out and do any trouble shooting.
I do know that I have to charge the AC system. It has been converted, and ran last summer, but isn't working right now. That made for a hot and humid ride home from work in this afternoon's thunderstorm. At least the wipers work!
Dag on it. I snuck out in the driveway between downpours and tried to hook up my do it yourself AC hoses and gauges. I couldn't get a reading or anything to work because the compressor clutch kept cycling off and on. I think that usually means low freon.
Is there a trick to this or am I going to have to take it somewhere?
A '79 (except perhaps California) carburetor uses a non-electric choke.
An A/C system that [supposedly] worked last summer for the previous owner but isn't working now and shows signs of low charge is 99.9% certain to have leak(s). If ALL of the "O" rings/gaskets were NOT replaced when the refrigerant was changed from R12 then that alone is a likely reason for loss of refrigerant. The accumulator/drier in old systems that quit working should normally be replaced and while it's not an expensive component it is an absolute bitch to access--thus the reason it's often not replaced.
Dag on it. I snuck out in the driveway between downpours and tried to hook up my do it yourself AC hoses and gauges. I couldn't get a reading or anything to work because the compressor clutch kept cycling off and on. I think that usually means low freon.
Is there a trick to this or am I going to have to take it somewhere?
Stock 81 takes 3 lbs R-12. Conversion uses a tad more R-134a . Unless you know the Temps and pressures, you cannot charge it correctly. They also use incompatable different oils. If the system wasn't flushed, it will gum up.
I would take it in, change the accumulator, have it flushed, and fund the leak.
Not sure what the original color might have been. I don't see any indication of it being another color at one time anywhere on the car.
As for the AC, I just got done doing a compressor/accumulator/orifice tube on my Jaguar X-type last fall. The dealer wanted $2,000 to do it. Luckily, my son's best friend's dad works in a garage and did the labor for free (because he owed me). I got the parts from Rock Auto. I guess I'll have to take this in and get it checked out. Might as well have them check the blower fan as well. When I turn it on high, I just get a gentle breeze from the vents. At least it blows from the correct vents and not the heat/defroster.
If the change over to 134 was done last year and it worked good,then they changed the oil in the compressor .but they may not have changed the O-rings over to the new green ones that will not leak.as cheap as 134 is put a couple of cans in and see if it works.It may last the summer .if it does not last very long then you have a leak that will have to be fixed soon.Taking it in and getting it checked out is the best thing to do ,but it is also the most expensive.
Beige with dark red leather? Woah, that's different than what I have now!
He did say he recovered the seats, with new foam, etc. It appears he did the entire interior.
As to the AC, I'd like to put a can of 134 in, but it doesn't look like it wants to flow into the system. Using one system (I forget the name, but it has a gauge integral with the trigger on top of the large can), I can see the pressure pulse when the clutch engages, but nothing seems to flow. With the second system (hose and gauge which screws onto a small can), the gauge doesn't even move, and when I open the valve, nothing happens.
Maybe I am not engaging the valve fully in the fitting with the second system.
If I can get it work for the summer, I can worry about fixing the ac properly while it is put away for the winter.
Last edited by DVAST8R_88; 04-21-2017 at 03:19 AM.
Reason: spelling
04-20-2017, 12:31 PM
New to me 81 with some issues
