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brake lines leak at fitting

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Old May 1, 2017 | 01:19 PM
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Yep to all I bought a reverse brake bleeder the V-12 from Phoenix. The front are perfect no air at all. I am so close with the rears but... I have C4 calibers since it has 95 suspension under it. This bleeder got great reviews and for the price of $135 it would cost me that to have someone else do it. I have my fingers crossed.
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Old May 1, 2017 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by vstol
Yep to all I bought a reverse brake bleeder the V-12 from Phoenix. The front are perfect no air at all. I am so close with the rears but... I have C4 calibers since it has 95 suspension under it. This bleeder got great reviews and for the price of $135 it would cost me that to have someone else do it. I have my fingers crossed.
That is a great tool. I bought one when I was having clutch master issues a few years ago.
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Old May 9, 2017 | 08:16 PM
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Well I reverse bled my rear brakes with my new phoenix brake bleeding system, no air bubbles after a few pumps and the pedal is soft like when I start to back up, 1/2 mph the pedal goes to the floor and is very soft and the car keeps rolling. I give up will need someone to fix it. I have never had a problem in my other builds.:waveflag:
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Old May 10, 2017 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by vstol
Well I reverse bled my rear brakes with my new phoenix brake bleeding system, no air bubbles after a few pumps and the pedal is soft like when I start to back up, 1/2 mph the pedal goes to the floor and is very soft and the car keeps rolling. I give up will need someone to fix it. I have never had a problem in my other builds.:waveflag:
Sorry to hear that. Another set of eyes never hurts. You'll have it sorted out soon I'm sure. Now come fix my power steering that I can't figure out! LOL.
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Old May 10, 2017 | 05:40 PM
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Yep, sometimes we have to take them to the pro's. It may not be air in the lines or anything you have tried. Don't get discouraged. It is fixable.
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Old May 10, 2017 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Neil B
Sorry to hear that. Another set of eyes never hurts. You'll have it sorted out soon I'm sure. Now come fix my power steering that I can't figure out! LOL.

Deal! I think I am going to get rid of the Wilwood and go with the C3 setup. They tell me that reverse bleeding is not what they recommend. They also said it only takes 10 strokes to bleed the master cylinder and mine took 35 minutes.

Last edited by vstol; May 10, 2017 at 08:58 PM.
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Old May 10, 2017 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by vstol
Deal! I think I am going to get rid of the Wilwood and go with the C3 setup. They tell me that reverse bleeding is not what they recommend. They also said it only takes 10 strokes to bleed the master cylinder and mine took 35 minutes.
I forget where I got it, but I have an aluminum c3 master that cost $100, is lighter, never rusts, and looks identical. BTW. It works great.
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Old May 11, 2017 | 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by vstol
Deal! I think I am going to get rid of the Wilwood and go with the C3 setup. They tell me that reverse bleeding is not what they recommend. They also said it only takes 10 strokes to bleed the master cylinder and mine took 35 minutes.
At this point, I doubt it's a bleeding issue. If you have a firm pedal and then it loses pressure with use, it sounds like it might be a problem with the master cylinder. I've had brand new out of the box clutch masters that were bad.
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Old May 11, 2017 | 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
I forget where I got it, but I have an aluminum c3 master that cost $100, is lighter, never rusts, and looks identical. BTW. It works great.
Is it manual vice boosted? I think I am going to give up on Wilwood and return it
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Old May 11, 2017 | 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Neil B
At this point, I doubt it's a bleeding issue. If you have a firm pedal and then it loses pressure with use, it sounds like it might be a problem with the master cylinder. I've had brand new out of the box clutch masters that were bad.
Neil what are you using for a brakes set up
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Old May 11, 2017 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by vstol
Neil what are you using for a brakes set up
Chris McDonald (former owner) set up the brakes. I haven't touched them other than to cure the seeping lines at the rear. The calipers are rebuilt C3 calipers and the master is an aftermarket unit. Looks like it might be a CPP master. I do recall Chris fighting to get them bled as well.
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Old May 11, 2017 | 10:48 AM
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I have an aluminum master cyl from Pirate Jack Racing, been on the car for about ten years now, maybe more....and it's purrfect in that I eliminated that 'prop' valve on the front frame there, subbed in a splitter for the front calipers, back brake line to cyl directly rear port/closest to fire wall, front port to front brakes.....to bleed, this is the funny part....

note that in the screw on top, there are one or two slots leading to above the rubber gasket, to allow air in there above the gasket should a cat *** trophic thing happen.....pump more fluid to the lines....

well, to bleed the brakes, take your air hose and with the ported nozzle, aim the air in on top of the gasket/bellows in the lid, that will pressure the system without pumping and force fluid through the lines/calipers...

same as I did many years ago to the stock iron caliper with the clip on top....drilled two small holes in the steel stamping top, and forced in air to pressure the fluid through the system.....

GOD I"m LAZY!!!!!
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Old May 11, 2017 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Neil B
Chris McDonald (former owner) set up the brakes. I haven't touched them other than to cure the seeping lines at the rear. The calipers are rebuilt C3 calipers and the master is an aftermarket unit. Looks like it might be a CPP master. I do recall Chris fighting to get them bled as well.
Neal manual or assisted?
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Old May 11, 2017 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by vstol
Neal manual or assisted?
Power brakes.
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Old May 12, 2017 | 05:56 AM
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thanks I think I would need to reroute my fuel line which may be a problem for power.
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Old May 12, 2017 | 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by TimAT
And you might check the flare for cracks- it's possible that it has a crack in the radius of the flare. Clean the tube really well, and a flashlight and amagnifying glass.
Like Tim said, check the flare, the flare should fit completely over the fitting and be big enough to cover the whole cone shape of the fitting you are connecting it to. If the flare was done to small, not enough material past the block, (I go slightly past nickel thickness) when making the flare, it will leak. Check for micro cracks in flare.
Are the threads crossed threaded a bit at the MC? I would use just a dab of thread sealant on the threads and give it a shot.
I do a lot of high pressure flare ends in the HVAC business. I find flare connections are good for maybe 2 retourqes and that's it. Remember you are using pressure and force to clamp a metal to metal connection with no gasket. Stretching takes place and they do tear and crack. Have to probably cut to good material and reflare.

Last edited by midigike; May 12, 2017 at 07:46 AM.
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Old May 13, 2017 | 07:22 AM
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I have no leaks just no pedal. Will try bleeding the MC one more time but I have had it with the Wilwood setup
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Old May 15, 2017 | 11:28 AM
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At this point I would call Wilwood tech line and ask them what they recommend. Then I would make an appointment with a professional brake shop and have the car flat bedded to them to check your system to determine what is wrong. It could be a combination of several small things.
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Old May 15, 2017 | 06:06 PM
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Wilwood said to try hard lines instead of the bleeder kit they give you. If not use teflon tape on the threads of the bleeders.
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Old May 15, 2017 | 07:28 PM
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This is not rocket science but turning out to be a pain in the ***
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