turbosl2

Does anyone have a link to a DIY for replacing the bushings in the suspension on a 1980 corvette. I want to see the tools that are needed so i can gauge how big of a job it is. I was looking at this kit
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-3-18123g
Has anyone used this kit or recommend others? I was thinking KYB shocks as replacements. I have used them before and they are decent and have a good value. Thoughts.
This is not a prestine car, its a driver and we dont want to go overboard on the budget.

Thanks for the help

ronarndt

That kit is as good as most. I got the one for my 68 from Ecklers, but the components are similar, depending on whether you want polyurethane or the stock rubber bushings. If you are going to do the A-arm bushings, invest in the tool to press out the old bushings and press in the new ones. Makes the job easier and you will not risk bending the A-arm or setting your garage on fire trying to burn out the old bushings.

turbosl2

Thanks, what tool are you referring to?

ronarndt

Most vendors call it an upper control arm bushing tool for GM, Ford, Chrysler. Check on ebay- I got one for about $120. It works like a tie rod end tool- uses the threaded bolt to push out the old bushing and also uses the bolt to press in the new bushing without pounding it with a hammer and bending bending the A arm.

turbosl2

Ok thanks for the info. Have you seen any writeups on the bushing installation? How involved is the process?

Dynra Rockets

As long as you are pressing stuff in, might as well take a look at your lower shock mounts also.

The factory specifies a BP19 bar pin type lower mount with 2.62" holt-to-hole mounting and 3.19" length. This is even a little sloppy from the factory as the lower control arms nuts are actually about 2.8" so the mouting bolt is at the very end of the bar. It is close enough though so as long as the shock you buy has the proper bar pin and you perfectly center them when mounting you are okay.



The issue is that many of the lower end priced shocks (Gabriel, Monroe, Delco, etc) repurpose the lower bar pin from the GM intermediate line to save money which uses a BP17 or worse a BP30 which makes the mounting only marginally close to fitting due to the shorter total length of the bar. You either need to live with the fact your shock lower mount may come unattached at some point or you install with extra large washers to give some extra surface area.

What I did was buy a replacement BP8 bar pin from SkyJacker (the 4x4 shock guys). It was less then $3 from Jegs and comes with new red polyurethane bushings. The 2.87" closed hole mount is near perfect to the lower control arms nut spacing and it is much higher quality than the cheap aftermarket stuff. Notice the thin-wall, mild steel, split-tube compared to the thick wall, stainless, welded seam tube.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Skyjacker/825/BP8/10002/-1

I used my Harbor Freight 2 ton press but could have easily used a bench vice. They came out and went in easily.

The below is a pic of the Delco shocks. Notice that the right bolt washer was barely making contact with the bar pin in the last picture.

Wee

Nice tip....

Brian

turbosl2

Yes great tip. I have a small 2 ton press from HF too. It seems I will have to order the control arm press to do the rest.

terry82

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...t+end+bushings a 1inch and 1 forth socket can do the work .a press would be best .

Dynra Rockets

I replaced my upper control arm bushings a few years back. I honestly do not remember the exact process I went though, I was just "MacGyver-ing" it as I went but I was able to use the tools I already had in my tool chest. Large flatblade screwdrivers, sockets, gear puller, punches, BFH, etc.

Dynra Rockets

one more pic...

ronarndt

upper A arm removed on bench


threaded rod, washers and nuts going thru shock hole in upper A arm

Not sure how much suspension work you have done. There is a lot more work just getting the A arms out. You need a spring compressor to safely let the tension off the coil spring and also to re- install the spring when you put everything back together. I used a tip from another forum member and switched a long threaded rod, washers, nuts and spacer pipe on the spring compressor and ran the rod up thru the hole for the shock absorber on the upper A arm. This allowed you better access and leverage getting the spring back on. The other functions for loosening ball joints and removing the A arms are covered in most of the shop manuals for Corvette.

'75

I use a similar method to remove the spring tension. I use the threaded rod, but no spring hooks, run it down through the lower control arm shock hole and put on a large washer and nut, top and bottom. No chance of anything slipping and getting away.

turbosl2

This was was what I was expecting. I have done this before. It's for a friends car and he is getting a squeak when you go over bumps. I suspect it's the control arm bushings. I plan to take a look tomorrow and see if the bushings are dried or cracked.

ronarndt

That's an even better way to compress the spring. Wish I had thought about it when I did my rebuild. With the spring hooks, the spring bends just enough that it is not in proper position when you reassemble it. I had a come-along fastened to the frame to pull it so the spring would drop into the recessed grove on the A arm. Looked like a real redneck setup.