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Hot Dog! I never thought about doing this! After I put on rebuilt trailing arms, new shocks, half shafts, and strut rods, I was sitting about an inch too high. I already have 8 " bolts and didn't want to go any longer, and was just going to live with how it looked. Now you have furnished another solution! Yea! Many thanks!
The best thing about removing spacers from the top of the spring is that it will, I believe, result in a 1:1 reduction in ride height. Take out a 1" spacer, reduce height 1". That's as opposed to longer spring bolts which result in nowhere near a 1:1 reduction. I think I got about a 3/4" reduction in height going from 6" to 8" bolts.
This is my experience with spring changes and bolt changes.
I did read the posts about bad things happening and one thing that is pretty much an absolute is "do not use longer bolts with 15" wheels.
The end of the bolt should never be below the wheel. the result is the dragging bolt if you have a flat, like in Kid Vette's picture. At high speed could be catastrophic!
With 17" wheels 8" bolts could be used. not sure about 10".
If you have 18" wheels a 10" bolt can be used.
In any case if you have an 8" or 10" bolt and the nut is threaded up to expose a couple of inches of thread that you don't need, cut the excess thread off.
If you have tires wider than 255 and stock offset, either order your spring narrowed a 1/2 inch on each end, or cut and narrow it yourself. Keeps the spring away from the wide rim and tire.
My first aftermarket spring was a VBP 330 lb and it needed 10" bolts cut down to 9" once I settled on the desired ride height.
Decided last winter to change to a 360 lb spring. bolted everything up and the arch of the spring was significantly different from the 330lb. ran out of threads on the 10" bolts and could not get the car high enough. Had to change to 8" bolts and now it's all good.
My wheels are 18" Coys 9.5" and tires are 285/45 Nitto's
The best thing about removing spacers from the top of the spring is that it will, I believe, result in a 1:1 reduction in ride height. Take out a 1" spacer, reduce height 1". That's as opposed to longer spring bolts which result in nowhere near a 1:1 reduction. I think I got about a 3/4" reduction in height going from 6" to 8" bolts.
So, dumb question. Is there any side effects from removing the spacer or is it simply used/not used depending on desired ride height?
Just a further observation following my recent installation is that whatever bolt length you fit to get the ride height, you need to relieve the mid section like the original ones to allow proper articulation as the spring deflects, if you don't you'll chew up your rubber bushes.
Graham
So I pulled out the spacer which gained me 5/8' and installed 10" spring bolts. I've now got the height I desired but am also going to install Bilstein Sport Shocks because as mentioned above the shocks I have now can't respond fast enough for the mono spring. I'm waiting for the new shocks and will then drive it a few hundred miles but then I believe I'll be able to cut 1-1/4 of the spring bolt. As it is right now the bottom of the nut is pretty much even with the bottom of the rim.
I'll post some before and after pictures as well as the spacer I removed. And even with removing the spacer there's still something between the fiberglass spring and the rear end. I did get some shorter bolts for installing the spring as 2 of the original ones would have been too long.
By the way, I'm running 255/50 R17" tires which have almost the same height as the stock tires
Your before pic is probably closer to stock.
Where you are now looks nice.
You should look at the angle of the half shafts to the differential.
The wheel side should not be higher than the differential side, as this will have an effect on bump steer.
TheSkunkworks will likely comment on this and he is more the expert, I just follow his advice and explanation.
Yup, it's an aftermarket TRW spring and I'm not joining that club.
A fiberglass spring will never settle whatever hight it is, is what height it will be in 10 years
Originally Posted by Kevin BC
Your before pic is probably closer to stock.
Where you are now looks nice.
You should look at the angle of the half shafts to the differential.
The wheel side should not be higher than the differential side, as this will have an effect on bump steer.
TheSkunkworks will likely comment on this and he is more the expert, I just follow his advice and explanation.
Mine is pretty much flat between these points.
Not really bump steer problem....but what it does affect is vibration. you need all axles at an angle not straight that's both stub axle's and drivetrain
Yeah the spring will never settle and you just voided your warranty by removing the spacers. Not sure if a vendor would replace anyway. I'd just get the VB&P spring and be done with. Actually that's what I did do.
According to the late John Greenwood, you want the half shafts 1/2" higher at the differential than at the wheel to minimize toe steer not bump steer.
Yeah the spring will never settle and you just voided your warranty by removing the spacers. Not sure if a vendor would replace anyway. I'd just get the VB&P spring and be done with. Actually that's what I did do.
According to the late John Greenwood, you want the half shafts 1/2" higher at the differential than at the wheel to minimize toe steer not bump steer.
Originally Posted by 69Chevelle
I'm hearing two different ideas on the half shafts. I was under the impression you need some angle for the u joints to work correctly.
05-15-2017, 07:11 PM
Many thanks!
