HOWDY!!!

I was wondering if anyone could assist me with this fuel system question.
I have a 77, it had the bladder inside the tank. The new tank that I ordered awhile back has nuts welded to the underside of the sending unit opening so I don't need the old bladder ring (had the nuts built into it). However, there was a charcoal canister and a manual pump, a total of 4 lines. In the states of Nevada and Arizona where I live and drive, I don't need the old emissions equipment. And I would rather not have all these emission items anyways.

My plan was to use a 69' vented cap in order to vent the tank in-lieu of the charcoal canister and hook up a holley electric blue fuel pump. From there I would use a mix of hard steel and hard rubber line up to a check-valve in the engine compartment and run that directly into the carb.

With the check-valve and the electric pump, I was hoping that I would not have to have a return line. Does this sound acceptable for a swap?

I see all 4 lines. They are not under the body, but run along the from between were the body and chassis meet. Unfortunately most of the fuel system diagrams in my 77 corvette manual have been lost by the prior body shop like the vast majority of parts. I don't remember what line does what and how they connect at either end. Can some one help with this? Also how would I connect the lines to a holley electric pump? it only has one inlet and one outlet, there are 4 lines then.

Thanks guys!!

 

The fuel return line is not an emissions item it keeps the fuel cooler in hot weather by recirculating it. So no point in getting rid of it and what benefit do you think you will gain by switching to an electric pump? I understand your eliminating the charcoal system and using a vented cap.

 

Thank you for the guidance. I had always planned to use an electric pump in order to take strain off the motor. I am quickly realizing that its a pain in the a$$ for little to no benefit. I remember 12 years ago, the engine builder asked if I wanted a mechanical or electric fuel pump. I told him we were going electric and he put a chrome inspection cover over it. The cam that I used was a very heavy comp cams, I don't think it specified weather it was cut for electric or mechanical. I will have to double check and even see if I can find the model number of what was installed. I can't remember if it was part of the high energy or the mother thumper line.

If thats the case, and I can go back to a manual pump, without taking the motor our, how do I prep that opening for a manual pump on the block? and how can I used the (4) factory lines?

 

Cams by themselves do not dictate the kind of fuel pump required. If the mechanical fuel pump location on the block has a cover over it what has the car been using the last 12 years to run on?
The fuel pump uses three lines, a feed line, a return line, and the carburetor line. The 4th line you mentioned is for the charcoal cansister and can be blocked/capped off. So you need the pump, the mounting plate, and the mounting plate gasket and the pushrod.
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette-fuel-pump-77-81
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...nt-plate-55-81
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...push-rod-55-81
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...e-gasket-57-81

 

The car has not been running at all in the last 12 years. I guest what I am confused on is where all 4 of these lines connect to on both ends. There is ONE inlet on the fuel pump, ONE outlet on the gas tank. And there is no more charcoal canister. This is where I am lost. How are there 4 lines, why does there need to be 4 lines and how to all 4 lines run?

 

Actually. I was way wrong. I traced those 4 lines back and did some inspection. Those 4 lines are actually the brake lines. The fuel lines I traced back from the tank location. Total of 3 (1) on the left to vent into the canister and (2) on the right side, one send and one return.

They look like they enter the body and attach to the frame with clips all the way down. I am assuming that the body must be removed to replace the lines. Can anyone confirm this? Is there an easier way?

Any ideas on blowing them out, maybe checking for pressure or leaks?