When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I think I have a problem with the distributor on my 350, I've been trying for a while now to get to the bottom of oor running, since getting my car last year I've had problems getting it to go slowly smoothly.
I recently discovered my timing was miles out, in fact it was so far out I don't know how it ran at all!
I've finally got a smooth idle but at about 1200 rpm, any slower and the engine just dies, I've noted that when I try to slow down the idle the timing gets more erratic until the engine just stops, with the timing light on the marks are all over the place.
At first I thought maybe the springs had stretched but when I took the rotor off the springs were OK but there is a lot of backlash in the rotor shaft and if I twist it clockwise the shaft rises up a good 1/4" I'm sure this is not right?
As I'm in the UK I probably don't have as many options for rebuilding.
Thanks
Graham
I think I have a problem with the distributor on my 350, I've been trying for a while now to get to the bottom of oor running, since getting my car last year I've had problems getting it to go slowly smoothly.
I recently discovered my timing was miles out, in fact it was so far out I don't know how it ran at all!
I've finally got a smooth idle but at about 1200 rpm, any slower and the engine just dies, I've noted that when I try to slow down the idle the timing gets more erratic until the engine just stops, with the timing light on the marks are all over the place.
At first I thought maybe the springs had stretched but when I took the rotor off the springs were OK but there is a lot of backlash in the rotor shaft and if I twist it clockwise the shaft rises up a good 1/4" I'm sure this is not right?
As I'm in the UK I probably don't have as many options for rebuilding.
Thanks
Graham
I shim the end play in iron units to .015", and the aluminum units about .025"end play.
Definitely a problem with your distributor, the shaft is shimmed between the drive gear and the body, if my memory hasn't failed me this clearance should not be more than 25 thou.You need to pull the dist and investigate. Rebuild kits are available, bushes, new shafts tach drive etc so you should have no problem having it rebuilt or if originality is not an issue to you there are replacement distributors available at a cheaper cost than a rebuild of the original but most if not all made in the PRC where the manuf quality of some goods has question marks over it. I am in NZ and found it no problem to order the rebuild parts online I required, took about two weeks to get them.
Do you disconnect the vac can when checking the timing?
If you have as you stated 1/4" of end play in the distributor shaft I am surprised it still runs. For every .013" of end play in the shaft and due to the helical gear you get a variance (or slop) of 1 degree of timing. With a quarter inch of shaft movement that would equate to just over 19 degrees of timing variance or slop. .250 divided by .013 = 19.23 degrees....
Time to pull the distributor and find what's going on as a quarter inch isn't just a shim problem.
You are aware that the camshaft timing gear has plastic teeth. The timing on my 69 was like that [erratic] and I found most of the plastic teeth in the bottom of oil pan. T
Thanks everyone for your replies, I pulled the distributor today and there was almost 2mm of clearance between the drive gear and the end of the body casting, I've shimmed it up as suggested and things are now much improved, set the timing again and managed to get the idle down to about 800 rpm, timing now much more stable. Will see how it is on the road now, I'm guessing a lot better!
Just out of interest the markings on the distributor are 1111753 DelcoRemy6 A 10 inside there is a Mallory E Spark Performance Module Part No.6001M
Thanks again
Graham