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Just left the engine builder after a few dyno pulls and the 383 stroker ended up at 511HP @ 5700 and 540T @ 3700.
Original L-48 (190hp) Engine was re-built with Eagle steel crank, SRP Pro-series forged pistons, Morel lifters, Eagle Racing H-beam rods, Crane
mild street cam, AFR 195 heads, Performer Air-gap intake, 750 DP mechanical QuickFuel carb(electric choke), MSD Pro-Billet dist. and converted to hydraulic roller.
Built by Rick from Metroplex Auto Machine located in Mesquite, Texas.
I'm excited...
WOW... Great numbers ! I'm excited for you ! Mine dyno'd at 460 coming from Kim Barr in Mesquite and i'm stoked... Is your 1980 an auto or 4 speed ? I can tell you that my 4 speed is definitely robbing some getup and go with it's gearing. But it's still fun !
From: I don't do cities N/W Montana & Nor California
I'm literally doing this right now ~ Question: Using that "Air gap intake" did/do you have any issues fitting the stock hood? Or, are you doing modifications?
If so what.
Great results Btw, I would be very happy with those numbers.
I'm literally doing this right now ~ Question: Using that "Air gap intake" did/do you have any issues fitting the stock hood? Or, are you doing modifications?
If so what.
Great results Btw, I would be very happy with those numbers.
Well I don't have it in the car yet since I'm doing a complete restoration, but I read all the articles and asked on the forum here, and the consensus was that if I'm using the Holley or QuickFuel carb and the air-gap and a drop-base cleaner, it will fit. I believe what I read was that an Edelbrock carb will not work because it is higher.
WOW... Great numbers ! I'm excited for you ! Mine dyno'd at 460 coming from Kim Barr in Mesquite and i'm stoked... Is your 1980 an auto or 4 speed ? I can tell you that my 4 speed is definitely robbing some getup and go with it's gearing. But it's still fun !
My car has the TH350c auto and that is fine, I prefer stick, but that's not what it came with and it allows my wife to drive the car. My previous Chevelle had the 4-speed Muncie and she couldn't drive it.
From: I don't do cities N/W Montana & Nor California
Originally Posted by lakerider57
Well I don't have it in the car yet since I'm doing a complete restoration, but I read all the articles and asked on the forum here, and the consensus was that if I'm using the Holley or QuickFuel carb and the air-gap and a drop-base cleaner, it will fit. I believe what I read was that an Edelbrock carb will not work because it is higher.
Richard
Thanks, I've searched and couldn't find any info on it ~ I have the Turbo hood which gives me a couple more inches but, still worry.
Are you doing anything to your Transmission to handle the extra power, like a Shift Kit ?
Thanks, I've searched and couldn't find any info on it ~ I have the Turbo hood which gives me a couple more inches but, still worry.
Are you doing anything to your Transmission to handle the extra power, like a Shift Kit ?
I haven't started talking to Jeff from Plano Transmission yet about how to build the tranny more stout, but I think the rear end is going to be my biggest concern. Tracdogg2 has my trailing arms now and is going to switch to 1350 joints and I imagine when he is done, the diff will get re-built by him and more stout half-shafts also. I am not hard on my cars, i.e. I don't try to break them, just have fun...
Interesting, are these corrected #s?
What cam, compression ratio
ought to be fun on the st.
Yes, these are corrected #'s. With no correction, the numbers are 440/470 peak torque, still quite stout. While I was there, I asked why some 383's are developing 530+ HP while others are 425HP but basically using similar parts. He said a lot of engine builders fudge their corrected numbers. To be honest, the numbers he first quoted me were 440/470 and then he entered the "typical" factor other builders use and then ran the dyno for me. I didn't really care since I know that the 440/470 are the "real" numbers. He said he uses a corrected factor of 0.03 and others typcally use 0.20. I don't want to get anybody angry and dispute the 0.20 but I'm happy and that's all that matters...
I'll have more specifics on the cam on Friday when I pick it up but I believe its a crane retro-fit cam with duration 288/296, Lift .518/.539
Well I don't have it in the car yet since I'm doing a complete restoration, but I read all the articles and asked on the forum here, and the consensus was that if I'm using the Holley or QuickFuel carb and the air-gap and a drop-base cleaner, it will fit. I believe what I read was that an Edelbrock carb will not work because it is higher.
Richard
I have the stock 1980 hood on mine. With a Weiand Street warrior dual plane, Quick Fuel carb and drop base air filter, i was able to add a 1" spacer and still have hood clearance.
That motor is going to be a weak link finder. lolol I love how at 5200 your still carrying 500 foot pound of torque. That motor is like one of mine, and it never stops pulling.
How much do you save by using your existing engine for the build, instead of buying a crate 383 stroker?
I have an 80 as well, and wonder if it is worth it to keep the original engine and buy a crate motor, although being an 80 I can't see having the original engine adding much to the value of it.
Mine is a 4 speed. Would the factory 4 speed be able to handle the power increase?
No secret, its just I'll be picking the motor up on Friday and he will be going over everything that was finally put in the motor. But saying that, we originally picked out the crane retro-fit hydraulic roller cam grind: HR-222/345-2S-12.90 IG which has a RPM power range 2000-6200 with advertised duration: 288/296 and lift: .518/.539
When I pick up the motor I will get all the info and, if its different, I'll post it here.
We were looking for a cam that would have a good idle, nice power band, and work well with the auto trans.
How much do you save by using your existing engine for the build, instead of buying a crate 383 stroker?
I have an 80 as well, and wonder if it is worth it to keep the original engine and buy a crate motor, although being an 80 I can't see having the original engine adding much to the value of it.
Mine is a 4 speed. Would the factory 4 speed be able to handle the power increase?
When started my adventures in rebuilding, i asked the same question of the guy who rebuilt my Borg Warner Super T10 (and he specializes in muscle car manual trans). I forget the exact number, but it's rated under 400ft lbs of torque but per the builder sort of a shock rating. Most of the time either your tires will break loose or you're riding the clutch to take off. But as he said, you throw some drag slicks on it, and all bets are off ! Rolling start puts nowhere near the same bind on the transmission.
So far, i've had no issues with mine. In the future, i'm sure a 5 or 6 speed will be needed. But for now, it's working fine.
How much do you save by using your existing engine for the build, instead of buying a crate 383 stroker?
I have an 80 as well, and wonder if it is worth it to keep the original engine and buy a crate motor, although being an 80 I can't see having the original engine adding much to the value of it.
Mine is a 4 speed. Would the factory 4 speed be able to handle the power increase?
Well, I read and read and was for sure going to go down the crate engine route. Then when I started looking at all the crate engines, some were very reasonably priced but they wouldn't tell me all the specifics on heads used, bearings, cam, pistons, bolts, etc.. Some tell more than others but they all seemed to hide something, I guess that's how they compete. Some vendors give you the turnkey price but most just keep adding on for distributor, carb, wires, etc... I asked one crate builder to swap out the generic heads for AFR heads and he said they just don't do that.
I just thought I will be moving in about 2-3 years and didn't want to cart the original engine along so I decided to do a rebuild. I have around $6500+ in parts alone, but I know that everyone of the parts is of good quality.
I actually feel better having the original engine ready to go back into the car with the original engine stampings. You never know 10-20 years from now how valuable that will be, even on a 1980...
Reading between the lines: "Those are DEFINITELY (heavily) corrected #'s".
540 ft lbs @ 3,700 rpm from a 383; no. Not even with a tuned long runner length intake and stepped 4-2-1 headers and a tuned exhaust length.
I just went through an engine builder / dyno operator's list of over 200 combinations and dyno results and not a single 383 hit that number.
Adam
Like I said earlier, the uncorrected numbers are 440hp/470ft-lbs. I explained earlier that the corrected numbers were based upon a correction of .20 I don't know how to be more honest than that.
So after its in the car behind an auto trans, it will put about 340 to the wheels?
I don't think the loss is going to be 100 hp, I have read that the loss is usually between 10-12% for auto, so that would be 44-52hp or roughly 388-396hp to rear wheels. But I have also read that the loss for a TH350 is around 36hp, so depends what you read. Are you also counting loss thru the diff ? I'm no expert in this area, maybe someone more knowledgeable will chime in....