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So the camber on the rear tires seems to be a bit off. The driver side is way to far to the negative to the point that it even looks bad. I've adjusted the strut rod and that helped while it was in the air but once back on the ground it went right back to the negative camber. Does anyone have any thoughts? Thanks.
It could be too much play in the side yokes coming out of the differential....? Also put a straight edge on the wheels and the read how much gap there is at the top when it's level.
Stuff you probably thought of...
if the bolts are tight on your struts and not slipping (which can be checked with making marks on the eccentric), then the only thing I can think of that could allow the wheel to still move in the 6 to 12 direction is a bad wheel bearing. Have you checked for excessive movement in the bearing?
Good luck
X2 on the yoke having too much play coming out of the diff and a bad wheel bearing but the bearing would have to be REALLY loose/dangerous for that to be the case.
I noticed in your pictures that you are using adjustable strut rods but are using the OEM adjustment bolts on the inboard strut under the diff/Spring. The OEM camber adjustment bolt is notorious for not holding alignment correctly. Most of the adjustable strut rods use a fixed bolt/plate in place of the OEM adjustment camber system inboard. Why are you not using the fixed bolt/plate that usually comes with the adjustable strut rods?.
I have competition adjustable Heim jointed strut rods and it came with the bolt/plate to get rid of the GM adjusting bolt under the diff/spring. FWIW-The BEST system is the adjustable struts with heim joints for the struts...by far
I have these for about 12 years now....one of the best mods for the rear suspension:
Also, I did not notice one bit that the ride was harsher with these struts....in the description above from the link-"Not recommended for street use because of harsh ride".
Last edited by jb78L-82; Jun 15, 2017 at 08:25 AM.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Originally Posted by jb78L-82
I noticed in your pictures that you are using adjustable strut rods but are using the OEM adjustment bolts on the inboard strut under the diff/Spring. The OEM camber adjustment bolt is notorious for not holding alignment correctly. Most of the adjustable strut rods use a fixed bolt/plate in place of the OEM adjustment camber system inboard. Why are you not using the fixed bolt/plate that usually comes with the adjustable strut rods?.
The spring bolts look quite short for a composite spring, what's your ride height like?
With the car down on it's wheels the drive shafts should be near enough level, how are yours?
X2 for the fixed inboard bolts for the strut rods, I also have adjustable rods and it's a breeze to adjust them with the car on the ground then just roll the car backwards and forwards a few times and check the camber again until it's right then lock them up.
Graham
X2 on the yoke having too much play coming out of the diff and a bad wheel bearing but the bearing would have to be REALLY loose/dangerous for that to be the case.
I noticed in your pictures that you are using adjustable strut rods but are using the OEM adjustment bolts on the inboard strut under the diff/Spring. The OEM camber adjustment bolt is notorious for not holding alignment correctly. Most of the adjustable strut rods use a fixed bolt/plate in place of the OEM adjustment camber system inboard. Why are you not using the fixed bolt/plate that usually comes with the adjustable strut rods?.
I have competition adjustable Heim jointed strut rods and it came with the bolt/plate to get rid of the GM adjusting bolt under the diff/spring. FWIW-The BEST system is the adjustable struts with heim joints for the struts...by far
I have these for about 12 years now....one of the best mods for the rear suspension:
Also, I did not notice one bit that the ride was harsher with these struts....in the description above from the link-"Not recommended for street use because of harsh ride".
Everything out back is the way I bought the car. I'm still learning all the in's and out's of the car.
I did notice that when I lifted the car the left rear went back to a correct angle as weight came off the back tire even before it was off the ground.
you cannt do a camber adjustment with the car jacked up.
With the car on the ground can you reach the adjustment nuts on the strut rods.
If so raise the car place a large piece of wax paper on the ground under each tire, spread grease on the paper and place a second sheet of wax paper over the grease. Than lower the car onto the paper. This might permit you to get the camber close. I have never tried this.
you cannt do a camber adjustment with the car jacked up.
This is how I setup for alignment adjustments. I use the blocks to make more room under the car. I have Teflon cutting sheets with grease between the sheets to allow the wheels to be move easily while making adjustments. This shows how I measure camber.
Last edited by cagotzmann; Jun 16, 2017 at 10:31 PM.
I've been considering these for winter storage anyway. Has anyone used these to adjust camber? I don't know if needing the car sitting on its tires is a weight thing, a resistance thing or both.
I've been considering these for winter storage anyway. Has anyone used these to adjust camber? I don't know if needing the car sitting on its tires is a weight thing, a resistance thing or both.
You need the car sitting with full weight on the tires to properly measure any of the alignment settings. While the car is in motion additional forces will push on all suspension parts placing the wheels in a driving position. Having a surface under the wheels that allows the suspension to settle properly simulates what will happen when the car is in motion.
Originally Posted by cjkirby55
I've been considering these for winter storage anyway. Has anyone used these to adjust camber?
Like this ?
I did check to see if I get the same camber reading vs how I usually check camber, and it seems to simulate and allow the suspension to settle properly. I got the same camber reading. It doesn't give me the same clearance under the car, but I think its enough to get the job done.
You need the car sitting with full weight on the tires to properly measure any of the alignment settings. While the car is in motion additional forces will push on all suspension parts placing the wheels in a driving position. Having a surface under the wheels that allows the suspension to settle properly simulates what will happen when the car is in motion.
Like this ?
I did check to see if I get the same camber reading vs how I usually check camber, and it seems to simulate and allow the suspension to settle properly. I got the same camber reading. It doesn't give me the same clearance under the car, but I think its enough to get the job done.
That's exactly what I was thinking, they'd work for rear alignment and moving the car if needed.
This is how I setup for alignment adjustments. I use the blocks to make more room under the car. I have Teflon cutting sheets with grease between the sheets to allow the wheels to be move easily while making adjustments. This shows how I measure camber.
Just curious what make alignment tool you are using and what does it cost? Tired of paying for alignments on my cars. Does it measure camber as well as Toe? Thanks
This might be a really silly question and please don't take offense but did you roll the car back and forth at least 10 feet before you checked your alignment ? Again, I didn't see it mentioned so I figured I would.
I see you are a new member, so it's the first lesson we all learn is that all corvettes look like you installed hijackers air shocks whenever you jack the car off the ground and then lower it back down.
You have to roll the car to get the wheels to settle and lower the body back down to ride height.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Originally Posted by jb78L-82
Just curious what make alignment tool you are using and what does it cost? Tired of paying for alignments on my cars. Does it measure camber as well as Toe? Thanks
I believe its the same one I have made by Longacre. It will also measure caster. I too got tired of paying for alignments that may not be accurate or what you want as well as owning multiple vehicles.
Just curious what make alignment tool you are using and what does it cost? Tired of paying for alignments on my cars. Does it measure camber as well as Toe? Thanks
This is the unit I have. Can measure camber & Caster.
I also have 2 different sets of quick set adapter. The one above and this one. The one below I use for my 2010 GS Wheels & my 18" wheels on the 78. The one above I use with the factory 15" YJ8 alum wheels.
Thought I should update. I finally went to work under the back of the car. I built some stands based on some designs I've seen and they work well. What didn't work well was the adjustments to the strut rod. I'll post pics of the bushings falling out of the end links on the rods but needless to say they're pretty dry-rotted so I think I'm in a "remove-and-replace" situation. I also replaced the backup lights, rear markers and license plate light with LED's.
1977 Rear Camber Problem
