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Pinion seal leak

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Old 06-15-2017, 02:52 AM   #1
Antz81
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Default Pinion seal leak

The pinion seal on my '81 seems to be leaking, so I want to replace it. I've found threads saying this can be done without removing the diff. I have yet to see something from someone saying that they have done it while the diff is still in the car.
Is it easier to remove the diff and then do it? (if i go with this option I would look at doing more than just a seal)
I do not have access to a lift.
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Old 06-15-2017, 07:01 AM   #2
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I dropped the differential in my 72 to do the seal.....But I had everything else out at the same time rebuilding the trailing arms....The seal is tricky to get back in correctly and if I had to do it again I wouldn't even attempt to do it while still in the car. That said I have read where others have successfully done it without dropping it.

Good luck...
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Old 06-15-2017, 03:16 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antz81 View Post
The pinion seal on my '81 seems to be leaking, so I want to replace it. I've found threads saying this can be done without removing the diff. I have yet to see something from someone saying that they have done it while the diff is still in the car.
Is it easier to remove the diff and then do it? (if i go with this option I would look at doing more than just a seal)
I do not have access to a lift.
I've done it without removing the rear end, but it's not easy and you'll probably need a lift to do it.

Things to know about this job is that it's very easy to mistake which direction the new seal goes.... put it in backwards and it'll still leak. (We had a customer install 2 backwards before bring us the car). And unlike the prior years 1963-1979 where you need to count the turns it takes to remove the pinion nut, your rear end is a Dana and doesn't have a crush sleeve inside so you just torque it down.

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Old 06-27-2017, 12:39 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette View Post
I've done it without removing the rear end, but it's not easy and you'll probably need a lift to do it.

Things to know about this job is that it's very easy to mistake which direction the new seal goes.... put it in backwards and it'll still leak. (We had a customer install 2 backwards before bring us the car). And unlike the prior years 1963-1979 where you need to count the turns it takes to remove the pinion nut, your rear end is a Dana and doesn't have a crush sleeve inside so you just torque it down.

Willcox

Hmm - What a novel idea. Counting the turns on the nut. Do you even use a torque wrench?

Min is a 70 and is leaking and spewing gear oil everywhere. It is killing me as I just finished getting everything back together rand aligned. It did not leak before sitting for 2 year sand now what a mess.

Sorry to hi jack the thread but I am almost distraught at having to take apart the back end. Everything is detailed, plated and as new.

Thanks, Bill
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Old 06-27-2017, 12:57 PM   #5
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I would try this before tearing things apart.




ATP AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

Last edited by PAmotorman; 06-27-2017 at 12:58 PM.
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Old 06-27-2017, 05:18 PM   #6
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Hmm - What a novel idea. Counting the turns on the nut. Do you even use a torque wrench?

Min is a 70 and is leaking and spewing gear oil everywhere. It is killing me as I just finished getting everything back together rand aligned. It did not leak before sitting for 2 year sand now what a mess.

Sorry to hi jack the thread but I am almost distraught at having to take apart the back end. Everything is detailed, plated and as new.

Thanks, Bill
Not on a corporate rear end... you can't. On the 1963-1979 rear end you mark the nut position on the yoke, back the nut off and count the turns. Change the seal and then re-install it to the exact same position. If you used a torque wrench on it you'll collapse the crush sleeve which will screw up your gear mesh. http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/w...in-the-car.pdf

On a Dana 1980-1982 you torque the nut down, there is no crush sleeve inside.

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Old 07-10-2017, 04:09 AM   #7
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Now the car is in the air and I've had a closer look the rear end needs to be removed. It's not just the pinion seal leaking but the seals for the side yokes as well.
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Old 07-10-2017, 03:40 PM   #8
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Nice.. just pop the cover off when you have it on the bench... pull the snap rings.. and remove the side yoke seals. Not a hard job at all on the bench. But make sure you check the side yokes to make sure they are not worn too. The picture below will show you what to look for.

If the ware is moderate on the right side, then swap the right with the left and go on. The right side usually shows way more ware than the left but it it's minimal you can switch them out without any expense.... If the yoke is wore considerably then replace it.


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Old 07-17-2017, 06:26 AM   #9
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Diff is out. I'll need to give it a good clean before I think about opening it up. There also seems to be excessive play in the passenger side yoke. I'll know more later.
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Old 07-17-2017, 05:16 PM   #10
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Diff is out. I'll need to give it a good clean before I think about opening it up. There also seems to be excessive play in the passenger side yoke. I'll know more later.
Attachment 48114422
In my post above I forgot it was a Dana.. the yokes on a dana don't wear out that often... it would be highly unlikely that's for sure.
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Old 07-20-2017, 07:21 AM   #11
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I thought I would end up doing more if I had to remove the cover. But I didn't expect this.Name:  20170720_182257.jpg
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Old 07-20-2017, 08:16 PM   #12
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Sorry Antz. Catastrophic failure is never cheap and easy. Specially where you live.
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Old 07-22-2017, 06:26 PM   #13
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Sorry Antz. Catastrophic failure is never cheap and easy. Specially where you live.
Not when you also think it's a good time for an upgrade. Thinking c4 posi swap but I'll probably end up going with an older iron diff (I figured I would end up doing this at some point)
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Old 07-24-2017, 07:11 PM   #14
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Iron Diff is going in. Checked all of my parts today. Most belong in the scrap bin. With whats left there's just no point in rebuilding or keeping the housing.
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