427 is finally in!
The tough part was converting my 300 horse 327 Vette (roadster) into a firebreathing 427 big block Vette, with L88 performance. I set out 6 years ago by buying this car without the original engine, then slowly upgraded until now it has the Gymkhana big block suspension pieces, urethane bushings, glass rear spring, and the fattest front and rear sway bars and best shocks. Even with the old engine, the handling improved about 300% or better.
Work didn't stop there. I got a custom 3" moly steel driveshaft made, Mark Williams Muncie yoke, big spicer U-joints, and a "new" Muncie. Not to mention a complete interior and exterior restoration.
The thing I was worried about was the tall valve covers on the 427 hitting the power brake booster. So I got urethane motor and tranny mounts to minimize movement. With the tall valve covers on, I have about 3/4" clearance, and the urethane mounts won't let the engine torque the valve covers into the brake booster. So anyone wondering about that, I'd suggest urethane mounts. I won't have to ding the cheap valve covers at all, so I can probably go ahead and get the nice ball-milled, polished aluminum flamed valve covers.
Exhaust is courtesy of Hooker Supercomp sidemount headers and sidepipes, with 30" long spiral inserts. They're chrome, so to control heat in the engine bay, I've wrapped just that portion with this new fiberglass header wrap that's colored like carbon fiber. Looks excellent on chrome headers.
This is the surprising part. I know the polished Torker II intake was low, but I didn't know it was THAT low. I put my Gold Claw carb on top, and just on a hunch, I put the stock small block hood on, and I have a full 2 1/4" clearance above the carburetor. That means a 14"x3" K&N on a drop top aircleaner base should actually work. Talk about the ultimate sleeper!
I won't try using that in the summer, I'll still get my big block hood. But in the next 3 seasons, I can certainly use the original hood without excessive heat build-up (I hope).
Just real quick, are some specs on the engine:
454 4-bolt block, ARP studded, nodular iron main caps, 0.030" overbored.
GM 427 forged crankshaft.
GM forged steel connecting rods, shot peened and polished.
TRW forged pistons, 11:1 compression.
HEAVILY MODIFIED oval port heads, full race porting, bowl blended, 2.30/1.88 valves, titanium spring retainers.
Crane solid roller camshaft and roller valve train.
Torker II intake, ported and port matched.
Barry Grant Gold Claw double pumper with 775 cfm sleeves.
8" Fluidamper (it fits...plenty of room)
Anything that's not painted body color is either highly polished or chrome.
Now just a few more weeks and I can fire up the "supershark".




Can't wait to see pictures! :cool: :cool:
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts


I now have the exhaust in. Hooker screwed up on the sidepipes and bent the brackets too far. That shouldn't be too hard to fix. The spiral inserts fit perfeclty. The headers weren't too bad to install, but I should have chased all the threads before the install. It's much harder to chase the threads in the car!!!
I'm having a problem with the stock BB accessory brackets not lining up the plane of the pullies very well with the nice expensive billet aluminum water pump and crank pullies. I'm almost wondering if that's on purpose so that I'd have to buy the nice but expensive accessory brackets too.
:cuss
The custom radiator and oil cooler fits perfect, just like I designed it. But the fan shroud, UGGH, that's an issue all by itself. That's half done being hand-fabricated.
I can't believe it, but the small block hood fits over the K&N 14 x 3 filter on a drop top. I still need the BB hood for the hot weather, but it's nice to know I can swap hoods so easily.
Hopefully I'll be done within the next few weeks.
P.S., Sidepipes ROCK! They look soooo good on that car.
:cool:










:D :D :cheers:
