I guess the 383 I've been running for about 15 years saw one too many hard blasts. Last week it died a very noisy death. I figure these things happen for a reason and the only reason I can think of is I really want a 427 small block. I have a set of Trick Flow aluminum heads which are fine (I think) so I'm thinking about buying a 427 short block. There are several companies selling them, including Dart, although they are the most expensive.

I'd love to hear from the guys who have been running a 427 small block for a while. Any advice? Is this a grenade motor? Recommendations for a good cam with a manual trans?

 

I've been driving what I call a "mild" 427 SBC for the last 2 and a 1/2 years. I purchased a short block from Ohio Crankshaft, they have several Dart block options to look at - cost was good compared to many other options.

I have been using AFR 210s, as cast out of the box. I could have gone a little bigger on heads, but given my driving style, the210s support my needs just fine.

I've used both a Clay smith 3103 cam and a comp HR286 (both hydraulic retro-rollers). I'm not sure which cam I like better. The .050 numbers aren't all that far apart, but the Clay Smith is designed for AFR 210 heads, and I am sure it produced better power. The Comp had a slightly tamer idle. Both run well. I will look at the Clay Smith line again if/when I decide to tinker again.

The one drawback to the setup I have is the stroke - the Ohio Crank short block has a 4-inch stroke, so get a good oil pan with windage - If you should go a similar setup, you don't want to risk your motor by aerating the oil in the pan.

I've also got a TKO 600 - the first week after I got my 427 in, I toasted the old trans passing someone (I admit I was probably enjoying all the added torque a little more than I should have been). So make sure your driveline is up to the task.

Overall, I like it - no regrets. Just make sure your supporting hardware is ready for the extra torque.

 

get a good pan wiht that 4" stroke..can always do a 421 too
youll forget all about that 383 do it! they can use plenty of head/cam/intake dont be shy

 

The best block is the Dart raised cam because you don't have to worry about using small base circle cams with big 6 inch rods.

i have the world products 427 SBC and it has some good points like revised oiling system, connection for accusump, and up to a 4.200 bore or something like that. Mine is a 4.155 with the .030 first overbore for 434 ci.

The extra 50 ci makes killer TQ over a hot rodded 383

 

Great information. Thanks to all.

I visited the Ohio Crankshaft website and their price is a little better than some of the competitors. I have a Comp Cams retro fit hydraulic roller in the 383 so I would probably go with a Comp Cam to re-use the lifters. Just need more duration.

Are you using a reduced base circle cam? Did you need a pan for stroke clearance or was windage the only concern?

And I already have the TKO 600 so my big concern would be the rear end.

 

Are you using a reduced base circle cam?
No, but obviously you will want to check as you assemble the top end

Did you need a pan for stroke clearance or was windage the only concern?
Really you need to plan for both - a 4"stroke is huge - So pan clearance and windage both matter.


And I already have the TKO 600 so my big concern would be the rear end.
I see you have a 79 too - Is this for that car? If so, do you have the 3.55:1 rear end - I have read that up to 79, the pumpkin is capable of supporting a lot of power, but drive it hard enough and you can break anything.


I switched to a 3.73 a few years ago, and I like that combo with the TKO 600. Before I installed the TKO, I basically set mine up for a big block (hardened yokes, made sure I had minimal play in the yokes, and went solid Spicer U-joints). I check them every spring, plus don't beat hard on it, so no issues. I am sure I could break something if I really tried

 

I also have Ohio Crankshaft SBC 427 with 220 AFR competition, and AFR Titon 4802 composite intake. (my contact person was Jeff, he was a good help for me, sitting here in Denmark, Europe)
The cam is a comp cams core 13 grind 3194/3196 (not small base circle)
It is a EFI engine, overdrive transmission, and 3.70 rear. Engine is not in the car yet (69 Coupe) will be this winter.

I would not change anything, I got good advice from 63mako with this build, I'm happy :- )

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Ca...obeCatalog.pdf

 

Yes I have the 3.55. Can't imagine deeper gears. First gear goes by pretty quick as it is. The diff is stock, but I understand they are basically the same as a 12 bolt so fairly strong. Rebuilt quite a few years ago. Probably 20-30,000 miles on it since then. Only mod is the yokes. I installed the yokes from a big block when they needed to be replaced. U joints have grease fittings but I was careful to install them so they're under compression.

Which pan did you use? I would hate to give up a bunch of ground clearance. Our roads aren't very forgiving.

 

What kind of budget do you have for this?
be careful of some of the ebay stuff out there. Big fancy ads, cheap prices dicey reputations.
Ohio cranks been around a long time, tpi421 builds a stout piece one at time, Mike Lewis, Mark at Vortecpro (hes a member) etc are all good.

 

I used a Milodon part number 30907. It suffices - it is designed for Dart blocks, has a built-in windage tray and baffles, and it accommodates a 4' stroke with no problem, but the kickout is small. It has an 8 and 1/4 inch sump. There are probably better pans if you plan on revving it much.

I probably should have used one with a larger kickout for improved windage. But as stated before, I don't hammer it (too often) so have not yet aerated my oil.

 

If you like the 383, you will love the 427 sb. I use the Milodon 30908 Stroker Low Profile pan. It sits about even with the headers (Hooker Super Comps).

 

Budget?? What's a budget? Whenever I predict what a project is going to cost, I'm wrong. Besides, I'm paying for this in Canadian funds, so whatever it costs, multiply it by about 1.6.

Seriously, of course, I'd like to keep it as affordable as possible. I'm planning on reusing as much as I can, but I will still need a new cam, pan, damper, and possibly flywheel. I'll be happy to get away with 6000 US.

 

That would be perfect. I have Super Comps and they are not the lowest point on the car.

 

I am on my 3rd season with Skip Whites 427 , they did exactly as promised and pricing was more the fair.

 

If youre in Canuckland and order a crate have them dyno it...if it survives that it will probably be fine
tpi421vette is in Utah send him a pm he just got back from Canada helping a member with a 427 he built

What heads and intake do you have?

Thats about right

 

I have a set of early Trick Flows and an RPM Air Gap with a Holley 770 Avenger on top. I'm trying to find the stats on the heads. I know they are a little small, but they're free.

 

Very interesting thread for me because I want to build a Dart SHP 427 for my '77. SummitRacing says about the Milodon 30907: "Pan fits stock crossmember without modification when the correct Tall-Narrow frame and engine motor mounts are used. The Short-Wide mounts can not be used.". So you had no problem using the C3's short wide engine mounts?
Do you know if it could accommodate the Steeroids rack and pinion? Thanks much.

 

I'm using the world products 8 quart including oil filter. Deep pan that includes pump pickup

I have the no bypass high volume oil pump and regulate the pressure max with oil weight

Trick flow heads in the past were junk low lift heads
You need 227 to 245 cc heads for a nice street build

I had 227. Darts at first and they needed a refreshing, so I put on afr 210 and with even a big solid roller it felt lazy on the top end

 

You're right. The early Trick Flows were terrible. I had three valve springs fail in the first month. Trick Flow replaced the set. I had them rebuilt about eight years ago when I put in the roller cam and installed a set of Comp Cams beehive springs. I just put new seals in them this summer. They seem to be doing OK now. They will be a little small for this build, but its not a big deal to swap heads later.

 

The Ohio Crankshaft website doesn't provide a lot of information and I was unable to reach them by phone today. From what I read here, it sounds like their 427 has a two piece rear main seal and a driver side dipstick. Does that sound right?