I’m doing a self-install of a Vintage Air 1968-76 without factory air, evaporator kit (561174-PCZ) on a 75 Vette.

I’ve connected power to the battery as per page 23 and have not connected any power to the main fuse panel.

Problem:

There is a ticking sound (5 times per second) coming from the heater control valve even when the ignition is turned. I’ve had to disconnect the battery to stop it.

Question:

I’ll assume I’ve done something wrong during the installation, any idea how to stop the constant ticking problem even when the ignition is off?

 

IMHO, I would hook up both the power wire to the battery with the fuse close to the battery and the second power wire to the fuse box under the driver dash per the instructions (if I understand correctly, you have not hooked up this 2nd power wire) and see what you have. If you still have problems, call VA tech support. When I had a problem and called VA, VA suggested I follow the enclosed instructions "to the letter" and after doing so, all went well, LOL's! Speculation, maybe you have a bad heater control valve or maybe since there is no control power (from under the driver dash fuse box), it is cycling someway? I can say from experience you do not want that heater control valve too close to the exhaust manifold. My BB exhaust overheated the plastic housing on one install, ha! However, I am betting VA can help you.

Hope this helps.

 

20mercury

Thanks for the reply, I haven't hooked up the second power wire as I'm not ready to charge and use the a/c yet. I'm having a slight issue with the compressor being 5/8" too far back and out of alignment with the fan pulley. I need to manufacture bushings to move the compressor forward, but still wanted to drive the car.

Are you saying to hook up the secondary power wire anyway and see if the power control valve stops ticking?

There are no overheating, in 95 degree outside temperature the engine coolant runs at around 195 degrees with a 195 thermostat.

 

Ok and that makes sense. I think I had to play with shims too to get the a/c belt to align. I want to say VA sent me shims and I had to cut and find another shim(looks like sections of maybe 3/8pipe) to get all to work. IMHO, I would not hook up any power until you get ready to charge. My experience; the first time I charged, I could not get the full VA recommended charge in, called VA and they said follow the directions completely which tell you to have fans (I used 3 full blast) blowing on the radiator. Did that and got the full charge in and cooling was better too. On the overheating, sorry I was not clear, I overheated the plastic (ABS?) body on the hot coolant valve and it locked up because it was a little too close to the BB exhaust manifold. Got another one from VA and insulated/shielded this one with exhaust pipe wrap, but left the ends open, I think the valve can get warm too so I think you do not want to completely insulate, shield would be a better word.

Hope this helps and good luck with the install.

 

20mercury
Thanks again for the reply, I was also thinking of using pipe cut to 5/8" lengths (quantity of 4) and getting longer bolts to move the compressor forward.

In the meantime I wanted to do the complete install. With the exception of the power wire to the main fuse under the drivers dash, I should be finished. In the meantime I'd like to eliminate the ticking sound so I can drive the car.

I guess the suggestion is to move the compressor forward, hook up the power to the fuse box and see if the ticking sound is still there before charging the a/c?

 

If it were me, I would disconnect all of the power if you want to drive it until you get ready to charge it up. And to be on the safe side, I would also call VA and see what they suggest too.

Sounds like you are getting close to have cold a/c, cool!!!

 

20mercury

Thanks again for the reply.

I'm going to disconnect all the power, align the compressor and then hook up both power to see if the problem exist again. If it does, I'll repost again before calling VA as I'm hoping someone else has run into the same problem.

I'll assume I don't need to remove the fan belt from the compressor as the clutch is not engaging?


EDIT:

Update, I connected the power to the fuse panel behind the dash and the ticking sound from the heater control valve. If nobody else is having this problem then I'll assume it's a faulty heater control valve.

 

Sounds good me. I think there is nothing bad about keeping the belt on unless it is bad out of alignment which would not be good for your new belt. I know you do not want that a/c compressor single wire hooked up to power (engages the clutch & runs the compressor) until charging, as you likely already know (think VA has a warning label for this too). On the ticking, not sure, I am pretty sure these control valves are not particularly robust so maybe it is bad. On the other hand, maybe it ticks until you charge and calibrate?? Although this is not likely IMHO. However VA could tell you and likely how you can test the control valve on the bench to see if it works.

Good luck and thanks for keeping us informed as you go as I will likely need to put in another VA one day.

 

20mercury

Thanks once again for the reply.

Based on my limited knowledge of auto a/c systems, I don't believe the a/c compressor clutch can engage with no Freon in the system. As such I figured there shouldn't be a problem leaving the fan belt on as the clutch shouldn't/can't engage.

I'm wondering if there is an aftermarket heater control valve that can be purchased as it maybe that VA's are particularly high in quality. That surprises me considering the amount of money paid for the whole system.

Are you thinking of getting another VA system for a different care as these should last for many years?

On a different note, I'm surprised that no one else has replied to a VA thread.

 

Good point and I think you are correct, the low pressure switch is supposed to keep the compressor off. Even so, I would be careful hooking up the compressor wire until you get ready to charge, but just me.

Aftermarket heater cv might void your warranty if you bought VA new. I would stick with VA's valve and shield the plastic body, but just my opinion. Once I got my cv shielded, no more problems to date.

On another note I understand from others VA is just as durable as any a/c system, unfortunately, I have a bad habit of buying C3's, fixing them up and selling, and then buying another. No treatment I have found or any desire to change on my part!

All the best for cold air results!

 

20mercury

Yes, the VA was new, but it was purchased over a year ago and I just installed it as part of a body off resto. Not even sure I have warranty anymore.

I disconnected the power to the a/c and won't be charging up with Freon until I can figure out this problem.

 

According to VA's web site it comes with a 3 year warranty.

 

Why not CALL Vintage Air for an ANSWER to your question instead of soliciting OPINIONS here on the Forum?

 

502 C-3

Thanks for the information.

Rotonda

My experience has taught me to gain as much information as possible before contacting the manufacture or vendor, I've known manufactures to give me misinformation to get out of any responsibility, as I've caught many in a lie. In other words, In the past I've had manufacture tell me I've installed something improper and to go exactly by the installation procedure. As such they have no responsibility and unable to help me, I've then had to correct them in stating that there are many other people, according to said web site that have had the same problem and received a replacement part due to it being defective. The tone of the conversation then changes, they apologize and sent me a new part as they realize I've done my homework. They then also realize that my problem is being discussed in an open forum and they don't want any bad "word of mouth advertising", which in most cases changes the tone of the conversation.

 

My experience with Vintage Air has been most positive. They have been most helpful and accurate whenever I contacted them. I have seen many others on the Forum report much the same experience.

If you do not want to contact them for an answer, contact them for an opinion, but going to the source will usually provide the best evidence.

 

Good answer! I always assume vendors are going to suck with their support before I call also. I give them every chance to do the right thing, and generally they do and we get along fine. But once in a while....
I installed my VA system a few years back when I was building the car. I never finished the VA install because I never really needed AC or heat and drove around like that for a couple years. This season I did hook up the heat, which meant sending power to the VA unit. I left the compressor unplugged just to make sure it did not for any reason kick in. Then when I was out in South Dakota at a shop whose name shall never be mentioned here, they charged up my system before I drove back home. We replaced the binary switch with a trinary switch, i finished a couple wires, and we charged it. I was glad we did as it got really hot on the way back to iowa (500 miles) About half way there i happened to look down and see a drop of water coming from the passenger side where the VA unit is and THEN i remembered I never hooked up the drain :-) The carpet was soaked, which was quickly fixed, but it was kind of funny.
If I had your ticking noise I think I would hook up everything but the last wire to the compressor and see if the ticking continues. Then I would unhook the bypass valve and see if it stops. If it does then I would unhook the valve and bench test it to see if it is functioning correctly.
Good luck. I was glad i finally hooked mine up. 95 percent of the time I don't need heat or air since i just drive it when it is nice out, but once in a while it is nice to have.

 

Also ditto same experience here with VA, have been super nice and helpful when I called them too.

And agree it is good to be as knowledgeable as possible when you call a vendor.

I know some vendors behave as you say, but VA has not been one of those to my knowledge.

 

VA is good company but they have a problem with their heater control valves.

Lots of C2 owners have had problem. I had same problem on my C3. C2 & C3 use same valve.
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George

 

Thanks everyone for your suggestions and comments.

I've disconnected power to the a/c as I want to drive the care a bit in order to find other problems after the restoration in order to fix everything.

So far I've encountered about 20 problems of which I believe my second one has been repaired which was the starter issue. Now onto the next problem. Once most of the problems have been dealt with, I'll come back to the a/c VA problem.

Thanks again.

 

I've sent an email to V/A requesting a replacement HCV under warranty. In case a replacement isn't given, what are members using as a replacement?