73 zero electrical
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
73 zero electrical
Nothing working. Battery good, jump start no help. Battery ground good. 12.5 v to ground at horn relay. all fuses good. The radio fuse was bad but replaced it. Thought it had to be ignition lock, switch or ignition linkage. Replaced lock ,no help, ready to remove steering column but big job for me. Any other thoughts on cause of problem before I dive in.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,419
Likes: 1,554
From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Hi and Welcome!
A fusible link my have blown.
Looks like you have several
One near the starter, one before the horn relay and one more after the horn relay.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...ZTM0ZDc1MWM5Ng
Maybe someone with a 73 has pictures.
Looks like you have several
One near the starter, one before the horn relay and one more after the horn relay.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...ZTM0ZDc1MWM5Ng
Maybe someone with a 73 has pictures.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,711
Likes: 1,371
Check to see if you have voltage at the large starter terminal..
....and be careful about having the car in gear. (You don't want the starter to turn over the car if you're under it in gear--assuming it's turning over.)
Also, by "nothing working", do you mean that the car doesn't turn over with the starter? Or what?
I'll go look for my thread on where the fusible links were on my 68, but from the battery to the larger starter terminal should be a straight shot....be back in sec.
Also, by "nothing working", do you mean that the car doesn't turn over with the starter? Or what?
I'll go look for my thread on where the fusible links were on my 68, but from the battery to the larger starter terminal should be a straight shot....be back in sec.
Nothing working. Battery good, jump start no help. Battery ground good. 12.5 v to ground at horn relay. all fuses good. The radio fuse was bad but replaced it. Thought it had to be ignition lock, switch or ignition linkage. Replaced lock ,no help, ready to remove steering column but big job for me. Any other thoughts on cause of problem before I dive in.
Last edited by carriljc; Jun 23, 2017 at 05:57 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,711
Likes: 1,371
here is the thread for where the fusible links were on my 68. Hope you have an AIM, but if not, then it will give you an idea of where to start looking:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...locations.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...locations.html
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
A fusible link my have blown.
Looks like you have several
One near the starter, one before the horn relay and one more after the horn relay.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...ZTM0ZDc1MWM5Ng
Maybe someone with a 73 has pictures.
Looks like you have several
One near the starter, one before the horn relay and one more after the horn relay.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...ZTM0ZDc1MWM5Ng
Maybe someone with a 73 has pictures.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 520
From: McClellandtown, Pa.
Here are a couple photos of the fusible links coming off my 73 horn relay.
So you know what they look like and what to look for in the other locations.They are the two black molded rubber connectors on the orange and black wires.
Sorry for the dark photo, just went out in the garage to get them for you.
Hope this helps.
Tooch
Last edited by Tooch1; Jun 23, 2017 at 11:49 PM. Reason: Added photos.
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Hello,
Here are a couple photos of the fusible links coming off my 73 horn relay.
So you know what they look like and what to look for in the other locations.They are the two black molded rubber connectors on the orange and black wires.
Sorry for the dark photo, just went out in the garage to get them for you.
Hope this helps.
Tooch
Here are a couple photos of the fusible links coming off my 73 horn relay.
So you know what they look like and what to look for in the other locations.They are the two black molded rubber connectors on the orange and black wires.
Sorry for the dark photo, just went out in the garage to get them for you.
Hope this helps.
Tooch
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
here is the thread for where the fusible links were on my 68. Hope you have an AIM, but if not, then it will give you an idea of where to start looking:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...locations.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...locations.html
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Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Jun 2017
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Didn't ( can't) check voltage at starter but have 12.5 volts at horn relay which wiring diagram shows to be a direct line to starter solenoid. Battery is clean, checked battery ground and it seems to be tight. Didn't take it off. Ran a ground wire from engine compartment to battery terminal and had a courtesy light behind driver sear come on. Door was open. Haven't figured that one out.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,711
Likes: 1,371
ok, then let's do a couple of checks..
Earlier you said that you had 12 vdc at the horn relay so we'll go with that assume you still do.
A couple of questions:
1. Does the starter solenoid "rattle/chatter" at all when you try to start it?
2. Have you had your battery load tested at your local parts store? -- they typically do it for free.
3. If those are both non-issues, then you can try "rapping" the starter with a couple of times, and then see if it turns over. (You can actually do this anyway but really oughta get the battery checked).
A couple of questions:
1. Does the starter solenoid "rattle/chatter" at all when you try to start it?
2. Have you had your battery load tested at your local parts store? -- they typically do it for free.
3. If those are both non-issues, then you can try "rapping" the starter with a couple of times, and then see if it turns over. (You can actually do this anyway but really oughta get the battery checked).
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 140
From: Western New York
If you ran a ground wire from the engine compartment to the negative battery cable and one of your courtesy lights came on, that tells me that your battery ground cable has a bad connection. Don't just look at the clamp and assume it's good because it "looks" OK. Take it off and clean it, and then follow the cable down to where it connects to the frame and do the same at that connection. Then see what happens next. If cleaning up a couple of connections is too much, you need to take your car to a mechanic.
Duane
P.S. Also have your battery load tested at an Autozone or O'Reilly's. Just because you show 12.5 volts on your test meter doesn't mean the battery has the power to turn over your starter.
Duane
P.S. Also have your battery load tested at an Autozone or O'Reilly's. Just because you show 12.5 volts on your test meter doesn't mean the battery has the power to turn over your starter.
Last edited by Duane4238; Jun 25, 2017 at 08:55 PM. Reason: xtra info
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,711
Likes: 1,371
Good points by Duane4238....
Not discourage you from attempting repairs, but not knowing your level of knowledge, about all I would do now is remove that battery and go get it load tested. While you have it removed clean the terminal connections.
If this is uncomfortable to you, then I also agree that you should take it to a mechanic.
If this is uncomfortable to you, then I also agree that you should take it to a mechanic.
If you ran a ground wire from the engine compartment to the negative battery cable and one of your courtesy lights came on, that tells me that your battery ground cable has a bad connection. Don't just look at the clamp and assume it's good because it "looks" OK. Take it off and clean it, and then follow the cable down to where it connects to the frame and do the same at that connection. Then see what happens next. If cleaning up a couple of connections is too much, you need to take your car to a mechanic.
Duane
P.S. Also have your battery load tested at an Autozone or O'Reilly's. Just because you show 12.5 volts on your test meter doesn't mean the battery has the power to turn over your starter.
Duane
P.S. Also have your battery load tested at an Autozone or O'Reilly's. Just because you show 12.5 volts on your test meter doesn't mean the battery has the power to turn over your starter.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 822
Likes: 82
From: Columbus OH
Just throwing this out there as I just had some issues yesterday. Went out for a local Cars and Coffee and all was good. Parked the Corvette in the drive to do some work in the garage, when it was time to put it back in the garage, put the key in turned to run position, all lights on dash came up like normal, went to start position and then there was a click and then the entire cars electrical system was gone. All lights died, radio died, everything. Let it sit for a minute while I looked things over but still nothing.
Put a volt meter on the battery and it read 11.8V.
I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery, reattached it, and I had interior lights again, ok, let's try again, turn the key, click and all dead again. Tried jumping the battery, even after five minutes, click and dead.
Ok, pulled the battery, took it to NAPA, load test, yup, bad cell. It was from 2012. Put a new battery in and boy did she turn over quick and strong.
How old is the battery? Go ahead and get it load tested, easy enough. But also clean the ground connections. They might look ok, but you would be surprised what a little corrosion can do to the system.
Keep us posted.
Put a volt meter on the battery and it read 11.8V.
I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery, reattached it, and I had interior lights again, ok, let's try again, turn the key, click and all dead again. Tried jumping the battery, even after five minutes, click and dead.
Ok, pulled the battery, took it to NAPA, load test, yup, bad cell. It was from 2012. Put a new battery in and boy did she turn over quick and strong.
How old is the battery? Go ahead and get it load tested, easy enough. But also clean the ground connections. They might look ok, but you would be surprised what a little corrosion can do to the system.
Keep us posted.
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
From: Woodstock Alabama
not to get to far off track here, but i have several times ran into a similar problem on gm cars. the wire from the ignition switch burns in two. about 8 inches from the solenoid. the outer jacket on the wire will remain intact. the symptoms are as the op described.
the way i have found the source of the problems is to remove the starter and pull on the switch wire and it will pull in two easily because only the jacket is holding the wire together at that point. with the burned conductor touching slightly inside the jacket you can occasionally get a power reading but when you put a load on it, the connection will go away again. likely not your problem but, if the other suggestions dont pan out, it might be worth the time to check. good luck to you sir.
Tony
the way i have found the source of the problems is to remove the starter and pull on the switch wire and it will pull in two easily because only the jacket is holding the wire together at that point. with the burned conductor touching slightly inside the jacket you can occasionally get a power reading but when you put a load on it, the connection will go away again. likely not your problem but, if the other suggestions dont pan out, it might be worth the time to check. good luck to you sir.
Tony
Last edited by beautimus; Jun 26, 2017 at 01:10 AM. Reason: punctuation
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,320
Likes: 8,124
From: Napa Valley California
When I purchased my 73 last year I was checking things over and pulled the battery from the car. The connections were tight and I was not having any starting or electrical issues. After I removed the battery I noticed a small amount of corrosion on the negative battery cable where the strands fit into the battery terminal connector. I started cleaning it off and found the cable was totally corroded for over an inch under the insulation. On the exterior the cable looked perfect. Under the insulation, most of the strands were eaten away. Check your cables condition and not just their tightness.
I just replaced my battery. Two weeks prior it started and ran perfect. Jumped in one morning for a spin around the block and nothing. Less than 3 volts.
I just replaced my battery. Two weeks prior it started and ran perfect. Jumped in one morning for a spin around the block and nothing. Less than 3 volts.
Last edited by OldCarBum; Jun 26, 2017 at 01:43 PM.
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Jun 2017
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Thanks to all for your input. Got to ignition switch by pulling out sreering column and it is functioning. Replaced it anyway. Had battery checked at auto zone and it's ok. Disconnected neg batt cable at frame and it is heavily corroded under skin. Will replace it. After that keep looking☹️