73 Dies at Idle
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 34
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73 Dies at Idle
Happy 4th to everyone. Wish I could enjoy a nice drive but she doesn't want to be nice. Had a problem come up recently where my 350 SBC suddenly dies at idle. Thought it might be vapor lock due summer blend fuel and dead head style system. Today I believe I can rule that out because the engine was not near full operating temp. when it died and fuel bowls were at proper levels and the filter was full. It has a mild cam, new Edelbrock EPS intake #2701, new Holley #4150 670 street avenger w/ electric choke and vacuum secondaries, Mallory GA Ignition system, MSD #8572 Pro-Billet dizzy, TH400 Auto. I am thinking it is now an electrical problem but don't know where to point the finger. I have noticed on the distributor rotor brass contact there is a big black circle. Could this be my problem and otherwise what does that mean. I also think I have a PCV valve that needs to be replaced too. The car will also die when driving, will bog down and then die while in gear.
Any suggestions is much appreciated.
Any suggestions is much appreciated.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,737
Likes: 2,583
If the problem is it only dies at idle, have you tried adjusting the mixture and idle speed screws on the carburetor? Concerning your rotor, a picture would be required. Make sure the inside of the distributor cap and the rotor are dirt and grease/oil free.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 34
Likes: 2
Just adjusted the idle mixture screws back and forth (rich to lean) now back to default settings. The car still dies after about 15 minutes of idling.
Race Director
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Posts: 18,737
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that "circle" on the center contact should not be there. Is it just a black mark or is it a raised area? Are you sure the center button of the distributor cap hasn't detached itself and welded to the rotor contact?
your richening and leaning of the screws was done using a vacuum gauge or tachometer?
your richening and leaning of the screws was done using a vacuum gauge or tachometer?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 34
Likes: 2
that "circle" on the center contact should not be there. Is it just a black mark or is it a raised area? Are you sure the center button of the distributor cap hasn't detached itself and welded to the rotor contact?
your richening and leaning of the screws was done using a vacuum gauge or tachometer?
your richening and leaning of the screws was done using a vacuum gauge or tachometer?
It is a black mark that will not come off when scrubbed with steel wool. The center button is still in its place, the last cap I had did have an issue similar to that. The center button had spun out of the anchors and fell out. I used a vacuum gauge hooked into the full manifold port and the highest reading achieved was 15 inHg, which it is now running with the primary and secondary needles in the default placement.
[Update] Since you mentioned about the center button. I did not physically check it, did not expect anything because it did not fall out like the last one. Upon inspection, the button is there and not welded, though I know for a fact that it is supposed to have a hemispherical structure. The button has been shaved off as it turns out.
Last edited by Dzbo; Jul 5, 2017 at 07:28 PM.
