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I have read just about all the threads on the forum about trying to get cold air to the L98 TPI engine. Most require cutting into the core support, which I am not opposed to. I just about have that all figured out down to the hood won't open all the way detail. But before I start has anyone run the intake tubing towards the back of the car along the driver side towards the firewall, then going into the part of the firewall that connects to the fresh air vent that goes to the drivers foot? I know elbows are not friendly to ram air, but there is plenty of room next to the master cylinder, and I know from past experience that there is a good amount of air forced down the front of the windshield and it is not hot air. Could that extra ram offset the 2 elbows that this would take to fab up? I know I then need to figure out the air filter box, but I can probably get that done. Someone please tell me the flaw in my thinking, because there usually is one! Thanks
Last edited by kanvasman; Jul 31, 2017 at 07:43 PM.
there is a guy on here who ran cold air from his carb SBC to the area where the wiper arms are. That was a while ago though.
A pity they don't make alternatives to the dizzy , if you could get that out of the way then you might be able to turn the tpi plenum around and have it facing the firewall .
Mr Carriljc, I looked at your pic of the 350 and lost the line going to the cowl where it crossed over the radiator hose. Would you have any other pics of it? Thanks.But I did see the '67 vert you have. My dream car, and the right color too! I had one, but 327/350 and it was white. If you look closely you can see the shoe marks on my butt where I have been kicking myself for selling it about 15 years ago. Thanks.
If you use smooth pipe and fittings the restriction should not be too bad.
Originally Posted by bazza77
A pity they don't make alternatives to the dizzy , if you could get that out of the way then you might be able to turn the tpi plenum around and have it facing the firewall .
Add a crank and/or cam sensor to the front and run distributorless?
I am not sure what you mean by "lost the line", but I can take other pictures if you wish--- just say so--- is there some specific area?
Originally Posted by kanvasman
Mr Carriljc, I looked at your pic of the 350 and lost the line going to the cowl where it crossed over the radiator hose. Would you have any other pics of it? Thanks.But I did see the '67 vert you have. My dream car, and the right color too! I had one, but 327/350 and it was white. If you look closely you can see the shoe marks on my butt where I have been kicking myself for selling it about 15 years ago. Thanks.
I'm really hoping you find a simple, over-the-radiator solution...
There's a website floating around out there with a guy who put a FIRST intake on his 82 Vette and he fabbed up a pretty simple cold air box that went over the radiator.
I'm not as handy as him and I don't think I could pull it off. I'm getting the FIRST intake and I know this is going to be a problem so I'm selfishly hoping you solve my problem for me! ;-)
Also take a look at Paul Dana's custom over-the-radiator CAI: I wonder if you had an adaptor duct that went from the front part of his CAI if it could be adapted to go onto the TPI throttle body. (Not that Paul would sell just the front part...) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-made-...NSiUjf&vxp=mtr
I've also wondered whether the L82 front facing CAI could be similarly adapted to go onto the TPI throttle body...
Adam
Last edited by NewbVetteGuy; Aug 1, 2017 at 01:13 PM.
Carriljc, I just saw another pic of yours when I followed the link with an underood shot. That was what I was looking for. Somehow I ended up at the second pic last night and didn't even see the first one. Thanks. And I have not yet come across any easy way to get over the radiator. Especially if you have a condenser in front of it. Most of what I have seen gain an extra few inches by not having that. Thanks to all for the input so far. I will keep this going until I get it figured out and start cutting up stuff!
Add a crank and/or cam sensor to the front and run distributorless?
first up without measuring the plenum don't know if it could be turned . I have never seen it done but it would certainly be different and more expensive! the SB /BB cam drive/cam sensor do seem to be lower height than the dizzy . I have seen street driven cars with the aftermarket crank sensors on so that part is doable. Then there's probably a computer upgrade involved
Like most engines I suppose it just depends on how much money you want to put in it, if you wish it to be a bit different .
If you use smooth pipe and fittings the restriction should not be too bad.
Add a crank and/or cam sensor to the front and run distributorless?
Distributor less doesn't mean that you have nothing in the distributor hole; A "distributor less" Sbc still requires a "dummy" distributor in the hole to turn the shaft to power the oil pump.
You'd have to have a dry sump oil system to put a block off plate over the distributor.
You're talking $2,000-$3,000 just for the sensors, new efi system, ignition system, and dry sump; probably more.
I'd expect the OP is looking for something more like $200 worth of off the shelf parts and a bit of hacking to just get the CAI over the radiator...
Distributor less doesn't mean that you have nothing in the distributor hole; A "distributor less" Sbc still requires a "dummy" distributor in the hole to turn the shaft to power the oil pump.
You'd have to have a dry sump oil system to put a block off plate over the distributor.
You're talking $2,000-$3,000 just for the sensors, new efi system, ignition system, and dry sump; probably more.
I'd expect the OP is looking for something more like $200 worth of off the shelf parts and a bit of hacking to just get the CAI over the radiator...
Adam
If you remove the need for a distributor then you don't need anything sticking much above the intake. Hell, you could even hide an oil pump drive under the intake if you really wanted to.
You could do it for <$1000 if you're actually inclined to do it cheap vs buying all the latest special "hi-tech" parts....
Originally Posted by bazza77
Like most engines I suppose it just depends on how much money you want to put in it, if you wish it to be a bit different .
Exactly. It was just an offhand comment to say it certainly could be done IF you actually wanted to do it.
Last edited by lionelhutz; Aug 2, 2017 at 01:15 PM.
If you remove the need for a distributor then you don't need anything sticking much above the intake. Hell, you could even hide an oil pump drive under the intake if you really wanted to.
You could do it for <$1000 if you're actually inclined to do it cheap vs buying all the latest special "hi-tech" parts....
Exactly. It was just an offhand comment to say it certainly could be done IF you actually wanted to do it.
Sure, but it's one hell of a Rube Goldberg solution. The guy has a TPI intake on his car and is just looking for a quick and dirty way to feed it some cold air, and you recommend going with crank and cam sensors and getting rid of the distributor and hacking up the intake to make it rear-facing?
It's akin to someone with a huge cam and a single plane intake asking for how to get more low-end torque out of their SBC and proposing that they just mount a JATO rocket to the roof.
It sure is fun to think about but it's almost a complete distraction from the original question and makes it harder for the guy to get a real answer he can actually implement.
Sure, but it's one hell of a Rube Goldberg solution. The guy has a TPI intake on his car and is just looking for a quick and dirty way to feed it some cold air, and you recommend going with crank and cam sensors and getting rid of the distributor and hacking up the intake to make it rear-facing?
I made offhand comment. It was not meant to be taken seriously. You're making a big deal about it.
I didn't know that using stock GM parts and doing your own wiring was now considered Rube Goldberg? That used to be called being an inventive gearhead.
Last edited by lionelhutz; Aug 2, 2017 at 06:56 PM.
Thanks to all for the ideas. I don't think I would be interested in any of the dizzy engineering stuff. I am at the limit of my ability putting the tpi in with the associated computer, wiring etc. and while I love to turn a wrench, I really would like to drive this thing someday. I have some parts coming in over the next few days so I think my options will be, over the top of the rad, but dropping the ac condenser down an inch or two to gain some clearance between the hood and the elbow going over the top. I also have a C5 air bridge that I might be able to use there. But I also am interested in coming out the TB, go to the driver side, at left fender going back to the firewall and punching a hole into the firewall just above and to the outside of the wire harness plug ( don't need that anymore since I am rewiring the whole car and have other plans for that). Picking up the air from the space that carries the fresh air to the drivers feet. It is a higher pressure than in the engine compartment and colder. Not sure if it is feasible yet, but have already found an airbox that will fit.I will get some pix of my idea over the weekend. I am sure if it worked, someone would have done it already, but I am old and stubborn ( so says the wife).Thanks and stay tuned. /Users/jimperillo/Desktop/SPE-9833.jpg
I made offhand comment. It was not meant to be taken seriously. You're making a big deal about it.
I didn't know that using stock GM parts and doing your own wiring was now considered Rube Goldberg? That used to be called being an inventive gearhead.
Yea, you're right; I did over-react. It's just a pet peeve of mine that always gets me going. I'm legitimately interested in hearing the simple answers to the OPs question.
It IS a pretty Rube Goldberrg /overly complicated and overly expensive solution to a simple problem, though; a "genuine GM parts" Rube Goldberg, though.