I don't know how I forgot that part

Adam,

Brackets were used with zero modifications. It is raining today, I will post pictures. All I needed to do was buy a larger metric bolt and nut for the upper adjustment nut and a metric bolt for the ground on the alternator. The adjustment bracket is a little tight on the new bolt because of some stamping flash, but a whack with a wrench sent it right through

Bottom bolt was fine to reuse.

There were no real modifications needed to do this project. If you find yourself doing any, you might be doing something wrong haha Even the belt worked no problem.

I got a CS144 from a 1955 Impala SS, the adapter harness with resistor (Napa EC82 IIRC)

Then from a certain large online marketplace, I got these parts -

Pico 8122PT 10 GA fusible link
Bus bar - 4 x 5/16" stud - 250 amp - red
6 gauge 6 AWG 20 feet red welding battery pure copper flexible cable wire

I got the 6 Ga crimp ends from my local hardware store, and the hydraulic crimper from everyones favorite discount Chinese tool store....

-Will

 

to using a crimper that will apply decent pressure. Properly crimping terminals onto wire is an issue many people have, causing problems with the connection down the road.

 

I agree! That tool makes the job way easier, and the results are very professional, especially after heat shrink wrapping.

Pics are still to come!

-Will

 

Sorry for the slow response on pictures - I haven't used my photobucket account for a very long time so I am trying to figure out getting back into the account...

-Will

 

Ok I think I found the way to post the pictures. Here is the completed project, CS144 and dual SPAL fans on a Dewitt's Radiator.

Don't mind the untaped wires, I am not going to tape them now, I will do it after the EFI install.

Let me know if you have any questions, it is pretty self explanatory, and follows what was discussed in the thread. The alternator is wired to the terminal block, and the factory wire is also wired to the alternator. Electric fans are powered from the terminal block, and the terminal block is also wired to the solenoid with a fusible link.

 

Nice clean install. I just did the headlight relay upgrade and now I have full voltage to my lights and it makes a world of difference.
When I put my terminal ends on I crimp them then also solder them. It might be overkill but I know my connections are good. After that some shrink wrap and I'm good to go.
I'm bookmarking this thread so if I ever do electric fans I'll upgrade my alternator and keep my amp gauge. To me, if you know what an ammeter is telling you it's better than a voltmeter.

 

So you put your bus bar on the passenger's fender? Can you explain your thinking on the passenger's side vs. driver's side?

Where the put the busbar and why is definitely a question I've got at this point, still.


Adam

 

Headlight relay is my next project, the terminal block will make it very easy now. Crimping and soldering is certainly an option, but that crimp was so tight I don't even know if I could have soldered it haha

I kept the ammeter and it works perfectly minus the load that the electric fans put on the system, but that is a good thing, means the load isn't going through the original wiring. I trust the CS144 can handle the load.

-Will

 

Great thread. I did something similar on my 74 coupe/auto: serpentine kit from 92 caprice. The local alt/starter shop rebuilt alternator for max output. (I can get specs if anyone is interested, the details escape me at the moment.) I added a 6 fuse block to the engine bay next to brake booster and ran a dedicated fused power wire to each fan. I use the 3 relay method lionelhutz mentioned (and he helped with!). Here's rest of wiring:
00 wire from battery to stud on firewall (this keeps battery cable away from header. Also makes jump starting possible with connecting to battery.)
2 gauge from stud to ford style solenoid
2 gauge from ford style solenoid to starter
4 gauge from alternator to stud on firewall
6 gauge from stud on firewall to 6 fuse block on firewall (2 slots for fans, 2 slots for head lights, 1 for vac pump, 1 for future use.)

i plan to add one of those circuit breaker things at the battery (Richard454 suggested these in a few threads) and also a fusible link.

i changed all gauges to autometer and in the process now use a volt meter.

this forum has been invaluable. I couldnt have gotten this far without everyones help.

 

I only put the terminal block there because there was no space on the driver side with all of the preexisting things there like the evap can, brake components and other wiring. Plus I put the relays for the electric fans on the driver side. Being on the passenger side was just cleaner and easier to work with, plus the run to the starter is very short that way.

-Will

 

Good info there, and the forum is amazing. The people and knowledge are top notch.

I like the addition of the stud to the battery, so the jumping can occur from in the engine bay, jumping from the interior is always a pain haha

-Will

 

I've been following this thread from the beginning and it's been a great help. I just want to make sure I have a grip on what I need to do. Please excuse me, I can wire your whole house but haven't done DC since car radios as a teenager, so I apologize now for any stupid mistakes. I'd rather make them here, now then later on in my car.

Background on my car: 1969 convertible, 4 speed, 454 block. Body off right now doing all work to prep and put back on rolling frame. Retired entire car with Lectric lmtd wiring. Replaced just about every switch, relay, etc also for new. Rolling frame has aluminum radiator with dual fans, EFI, power windows. Would like to build a system that is upgradable to any future needs (amp, lights, electric anything). The battery cables from Lectric lmtd are 2 gauge.

I am trying to maintain the new factory wiring, will probably swap out to voltmeter. SInce the battery cables are 2 garage and probably overkill but should I run:
2 ga from alt to post
2 ga w/ fusible link solenoid to post
2 ga from post to distribution block 8 bay
Relays from fans, EFI to distribution block
Adapter for CS144 alt

Can I leave the exsisting wire from horn relay to solenoid or change to 2 ga?
Going to voltmeter just splice the two exsisting wires from autometer to one post on voltmeter and one post to ground?
Do I need fusible link anywhere else? Everything coming off the distribution block (fans, EFI) will have inline fuses.
Should (would it hurt) I leave the factory wiring from alt to solenoid?
Would it be better to run the 2 ga from battery direct to post or is the 2 ga from post to solenoid just as good?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm just trying to picture the whole thing in my head and get whatever wiring I need done while the body is off. I would hate to have to run a wire to battery after dropping the body back!! If my setup is correct I can do it all after I drop the body.

 

Sorry for the delay in response! I'm sure you have things handled by now, but my responses are in red.

-Will

 

Mine is from a 95 corvette and the connector as you can see is in the opposite side compare with yours, which make it easier to plug.




BTW, you should change/increase the ground cable for the alternator.

 

I think your plug wires will be short lived. My 2 cents.

 

I was thinking the same thing

 

The ground cable bolted to the alternator is not the ground for the alternator. It is the ground for the rad support/front light wiring.

 

I am also quite new to the forum, and mining for knowledge on my project. I am in the process of restoring (not Flight class) a 1968 coupe - 327. I will be doing a complete rewire and electrical upgrades as part of the project.

Thanks all, for the great information here. It updates some of the research I was doing when I also ran across MAD Enterprises. The company appears to be out of business, but the tech publications are excellent and available to read/print.

I have just enough of a electromechanical - electronics background to know that there is more to an alternator circuit than meets the eye. The pubs on this site address the issues in detail, and off clear solutions. Since I can't order the parts there anymore, I will be doing more diving for similar terminal blocks and relays.



MAD Tech Pubs

 

What makes you say MAD is out of business???

 

I called the number, (559) 539-7128, at least 6-8 times over the past week. I always get the same recording that the mailbox is full, or similar. The last update to the website was in 2002.

By the way, cheers to you - Your post above was VERY helpful, as it describes exactly how to implement on our C3s what Mark at MAD is describing. If you have recent interactions with them, or have current contact info, I would appreciate it.