Free 5.3L LS
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 393
Likes: 21
From: Centreville, Maryland
Free 5.3L LS
Ok, so first things first, a buddy of mine is giving me a free 5.3L LS out of a 2001ish truck. Apparently it was a good running motor just high mileage (about 150k) and came out of the truck due to a motor swap. Since it is new to me, I plan to do a rebuild anyway and my first question is, is it easier to buy a top end kit and be done with it or try to buy piece by piece? I am a beginner with motor builds but have been doing alot of research. I have scowered the threads on here and LS1tech, I have got a lot of good information from both. Secondly, is it easier to switch the car over for FI or build the 5.3 as a carb motor? I am sure I will have many many more questions as this goes forward but this seems to be a good start for now. My 81 runs good now and there's nothing pushing me to put this new motor in anytime soon, so I want to take my time, do it right and make it nice. Thanks for any advice you guys are able to provide. The car is not a DD, it is only driven a few times a monthin the summertime and I am only looking for maybe 350-400hp at the wheels and has a TH350 trans for now, looking for a 5 or 6 soeed or 200r4, but that's a long ways off. 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Any engine build is better served with a game plan. Buying parts a little at a time will work, but you need to have an end game plan. Buying an intake, then finding out that the heads you have could be better with a different intake, I think you see my point.
The FI is nice, but remember it takes a wire harness and ECU and all those goodies. Same with the trans- You need to really decide and commit to where you want to end up.
With 150k on the motor, you need to blow it apart and see what the internals look like. It may need to be bored and then what shape is the crank in? Round? Taper? If it needs any of that, you might be ahead to drop a stroker kit in it and be done.
The FI is nice, but remember it takes a wire harness and ECU and all those goodies. Same with the trans- You need to really decide and commit to where you want to end up.
With 150k on the motor, you need to blow it apart and see what the internals look like. It may need to be bored and then what shape is the crank in? Round? Taper? If it needs any of that, you might be ahead to drop a stroker kit in it and be done.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 393
Likes: 21
From: Centreville, Maryland
Thanks for the response Tim, I should have stated that the wiring harness and ecu are coming with the motor as well. I also believe it is a DBC system too. Just trying to figure out if rebuilding the bottom end and buying a top end kit would be easier since I do not know much about individual piece numbers such as head flow and cam specs and pushrod length...I have learned quite a bit but I would probably prefer to just buy a kit and have everything work well together instead of guessing.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,153
Likes: 892
From: South Western Ontario
You need to pull it apart and see how it looks. It might need any bottom end work. Kits vs parts costing is basically paying for the convenience of having every part come together.
Keep the fuel injection. If you do decide to use an auto, use a 4L60e or 4L80e and let the PCM control it. Then, you can setup the shift patterns and firmness to match exactly what you want as easy as easy. I pay for the tuning licenses on my GM's just to get rid of the early upshift and then near full throttle required for kickdown again that GM tunes into them.
Keep the fuel injection. If you do decide to use an auto, use a 4L60e or 4L80e and let the PCM control it. Then, you can setup the shift patterns and firmness to match exactly what you want as easy as easy. I pay for the tuning licenses on my GM's just to get rid of the early upshift and then near full throttle required for kickdown again that GM tunes into them.
